Anyone

[92Acklegend]

Is there any Vigor owners, or is it just extremely dead.

[rt-man]

I'm an owner, '94 GS, black, auto, 140k miles. Little things are starting to bug me about it, will probably move it this summer. Still runs good, though, and no rust.

BTW, I had a '93 Legend L before the Vigor. Loved that car...until it blew a head gasket at 160k.

[clev]

im here 92 white ac vigor manual ready to mod

[RueMasterLa]

I just bought the car in late November '06 and I am about done modding.
So far...
Tint,
18" wheels,
painted calipers/emblems,
aftermarket muffler,
Spoilers,
K&N Intake filter,
Rockford Fosgate Sub,

I am waiting on some custom decals to make it "pop" then I guess I am done except for maybe perforated steering wheel cover and LED interior bulbs.

[clev]

does any one know where i can get the honda inspire/vigor grill? also looking for a front bumper

[Dale]

92 GS, manual, almost 200k, new tires, runs mighty fine and looks very very good! Starting to use a little oil but seldom enough to add a quart between free oil changes and filters by Acura. Wish Honda would make cars this pretty again.

[clev]

[Dale]

Mine is white and black also like yours. But mine has a owey on the rear deck. 4x4 behind me was looking at the traffic instead of me and when I hesitated he did not. He offered me $200 and I said OK. Does not leak, works OK, and most people don't even notice. Probably expensive to get exactly right.

Radio lights are on sometimes and sometimes not. I very seldom lock it because I don't like being beeped at when I unlock it.

Nice firm ride, corners OK for a front wheel drive, 30mpg or 120miles/hour but not both at the same time as I figured out in Montana before they got kinda testy about the speed limit.

[Bob01721]

Originally Posted by Dale

"... Radio lights are on sometimes and sometimes not. I very seldom lock it because I don't like being beeped at when I unlock it..."

Both problems are very common to Vigs. Eventually, the lights will go out altogether. It's caused by old solder joints breaking down. For some reason, it seems only to affect the DSP systems used the GSs.

The alarm problem is caused by corrosion/oxidation in the door lock actuator circuit. It can be repaired by cleaning the corrosion but that involves taking off the door panels.Most people just disable the alarm by reversing the hood latch switch.

[Dale]

1) Probably just coincidence but the radio lights appear to be on more now than when I bought the car used a few years ago.

2) Reversing the hood latch switch sounds like a mighty fine thing to do and I will. Where is the switch and how do I reverse it? I have a shop manual so maybe I can find the location in there?

3) Another question. Unusually cold here in Seattle so thinking about a new battery. How does one replace a battery without having to resent the radio? And are batteries the size for our Vigs difficult to find now?

Thanks for the help. Dale

[Bob01721]

Dale,

1. DSP stereos can be had on eBay for a song and a dance. Just verify that the lights work before you buy. And make sure you get the code or it's useless.

2. The hood latch is right up front, slightly to the right of center, behind the grill. It has a little lever on it. I think it's the only thing there that has a wire connector coming out the bottom. If you mount the switch upside down, the it'll stay open, so the control unit thinks the hood is open. It will never arm the security system if it thinks the hood is open.

3. Batteries to fit a Vig are available anywhere car batteries are sold. As for resetting the stereo, you should have the code. When you first turn it on, the stereo will flash "CODE." Just type in the code and it'll turn on.

No code? Then you'll want to get (or make) a code saver. It's a simple little thing that lets you plug a 9V battery into the cigarette lighter. This will keep alive all your radio pre-sets, your clock, any stored ECU codes, etc.

Hope this helps.

[Dale]

Found the switch in both the shop manual and on the car. I was not looking forward to finding the connector nor from the diagram could the connector be easily reversed but your further explanation about simulating an open hood(us old MG guys call it a "bonnet") makes sense and I will do it.

I have the radio codes so rather than fooling(and possibly damaging an expensive computer) I will probably replace the battery without worrying about re-setting the radio. Thanks for the help. Dale

[Bob01721]

Originally Posted by Dale

"... I was not looking forward to finding the connector nor from the diagram could the connector be easily reversed..."

Not the connector. The switch itself. It's mounted with two 10mm bolts. Just unbolt it, flip it over, and bolt it back in upside down so the lever doesn't get pushed in when you close the hood.

As an alternative, if you can find the connector (it has a BLK wire and a YEL/RED wire) you can disconnect it and jump the two pins on the harness side with a paper clip. It'll think the hood is open.

(us old MG guys call it a "bonnet")

LOL! Right! And the roof is called the hood. I yoosta work on British cars, too.

[clev]

http://www.acuravigorclub.com/ look under faqs many trouble shooting questions and answers

[Bob01721]

Originally Posted by clev

http://www.acuravigorclub.com/ look under faqs many trouble shooting questions and answers

The "Timely Topics" articles there are also (ahem) outstanding. (Wink. Wink.)