Timing belt change - Acura Forum

Rower4VT · 04-14-07, 10:42 PM

Has anyone changed the timing belt on their Vigor themselves? I downloaded the manual and it seems pretty straightforward. Is the crank pulley bolt standard threads...i.e. does it rotate counter-clockwise to remove? Without removing the radiator, etc., can you see the TDC and other alignment/timing marks that you need to? Thanks for any help.

Bob01721 · 04-15-07, 12:33 PM

I've done maybe a half-dozen Vigor T-belts.

The pulley bolt is standard, but it can be a real bugger to break loose. It's put on pretty tight at the factory. Assuming you're on your second or third T-belt, it's probably not so bad, but you never know. Acura recommends using their "special tool" to hold the pulley while you break the bolt loose. I have one and it works. I know others who have used an impact wrench to get it off (19mm, IIRC) but "your mileage may vary."

In my opinion, it's WAY easier to do if you pull the rad. More room to work. Not necessary, just easier. Again, this is just one man's opinion. If you decide to pull the rad and you have an A/T, be careful with the tranny cooler lines on the bottom of the rad. Don't try to unbolt the fittings -- you'll destroy them and ruin the rad. Remove the hoses at the hose clamp instead.

After the new belt is installed, rotate the engine 720-degrees (two revolutions of the crank) and re-ckeck the timing marks. Do it again and re-check. Do it a third time and re-check. If the marks are off a little bit on the third time around, reinstall the belt and pay particular attention to the tensioning procedure. I'm not sure how or why, but this drove me nuts on the third or fourth belt I did. All the others before and since went smoothly, but for some reason, I messed up the tensioning that one time. Maybe it was just a brain fart.

There's a step-by-step walk-through with photos at the Acura Vigor Club website.

woof · 04-17-07, 06:25 PM

When you loosen the AC belt remember that the adjuster is reverse threaded and be sure to also change the belt tensioner and the water pump.

Rower4VT · 04-28-07, 01:50 PM

Why the water pump...do they tend to go bad?

Bob01721 · 04-29-07, 01:07 PM

Considering all you're gonna hafta go through just to change the belt, it's generally considered "normal practice" to change the pump and the cam and crank seals while you're in there.

woof · 05-02-07, 09:32 PM

Never had to change the cam or crank seals but the water pump and belt tensioner are a must. May as well do a valve adjustment and change the thermostat while you are at it.

Rower4VT · 05-13-07, 08:45 PM

Just finished timing-belt chg, valve adjustment, spark plugs, tb cleaning, Redline in the trans, Mobil1 in the engine, on my new-to-me Vigor (192k).

The crank pulley bolt came off a lot easier than I thought...put it in 5th, had girlfriend hold brake, and used a 5-foot breaker bar. Came loose on first push...definitely couldn't have done it without a breaker bar...or girlfriend. Called Acura and asked about replacing seals and waterpump, they said just inspect the seals for oil leaks and water pump shaft for looseness or grittyness. Seals and pump were good so left them as is.

Old spark plugs must have been the ones from the factory 'cause they were erroded like crazy!...probably over double the specified gap because of it. Took them to Acura to inspect them and tell me if I was running rich, lean or burning oil. Acura said they were all good.

Valve lash was pretty out of wack, had to adjust every one of them. replaced valve cover seal...seemed to be the only place leaking oil on the engine.

TB was pretty gunked up, took half a can of carb cleaner to it. Adjusted idle while at it.

Mobil1 of course in the engine. Putting the Redline in the trans has already made a huge difference. 1st-2nd shifts are much smoother, and getting in to 1st and reverse at a stop is much easier. Getting the filler bolt off the trans was harder than the crank pulley bolt.

Overall she's purring like a kitten now. Hit the redline a few times today...I think she liked it.

woof · 05-15-07, 06:39 PM

It is a mistake not to change the water pump on any Honda product when changing the Timing Belt. Hope it holds out for the next 90k for ya. They are pretty cheap if you shop them on EBAY.

04-14-07, 10:42 PM	#1 (permalink)
Rower4VT Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 70 Car 1: 1994 Vigor GS Manual Car 2: 1997 RL	Timing belt change Has anyone changed the timing belt on their Vigor themselves? I downloaded the manual and it seems pretty straightforward. Is the crank pulley bolt standard threads...i.e. does it rotate counter-clockwise to remove? Without removing the radiator, etc., can you see the TDC and other alignment/timing marks that you need to? Thanks for any help.

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04-15-07, 12:33 PM	#2 (permalink)
Bob01721 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 108	I've done maybe a half-dozen Vigor T-belts. The pulley bolt is standard, but it can be a real bugger to break loose. It's put on pretty tight at the factory. Assuming you're on your second or third T-belt, it's probably not so bad, but you never know. Acura recommends using their "special tool" to hold the pulley while you break the bolt loose. I have one and it works. I know others who have used an impact wrench to get it off (19mm, IIRC) but "your mileage may vary." In my opinion, it's WAY easier to do if you pull the rad. More room to work. Not necessary, just easier. Again, this is just one man's opinion. If you decide to pull the rad and you have an A/T, be careful with the tranny cooler lines on the bottom of the rad. Don't try to unbolt the fittings -- you'll destroy them and ruin the rad. Remove the hoses at the hose clamp instead. After the new belt is installed, rotate the engine 720-degrees (two revolutions of the crank) and re-ckeck the timing marks. Do it again and re-check. Do it a third time and re-check. If the marks are off a little bit on the third time around, reinstall the belt and pay particular attention to the tensioning procedure. I'm not sure how or why, but this drove me nuts on the third or fourth belt I did. All the others before and since went smoothly, but for some reason, I messed up the tensioning that one time. Maybe it was just a brain fart. There's a step-by-step walk-through with photos at the Acura Vigor Club website.

04-17-07, 06:25 PM	#3 (permalink)
woof Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 36 Your Mood: Car 1: 2003 CL 6 Speed Car 2: 96 RL Premium Car 3: 92 and 93 Vigor's both GS	When you loosen the AC belt remember that the adjuster is reverse threaded and be sure to also change the belt tensioner and the water pump.

04-28-07, 01:50 PM	#4 (permalink)
Rower4VT Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 70 Car 1: 1994 Vigor GS Manual Car 2: 1997 RL	Why the water pump...do they tend to go bad?

04-29-07, 01:07 PM	#5 (permalink)
Bob01721 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 108	Considering all you're gonna hafta go through just to change the belt, it's generally considered "normal practice" to change the pump and the cam and crank seals while you're in there.

05-02-07, 09:32 PM	#6 (permalink)
woof Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 36 Your Mood: Car 1: 2003 CL 6 Speed Car 2: 96 RL Premium Car 3: 92 and 93 Vigor's both GS	Never had to change the cam or crank seals but the water pump and belt tensioner are a must. May as well do a valve adjustment and change the thermostat while you are at it.

05-13-07, 08:45 PM	#7 (permalink)
Rower4VT Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 70 Car 1: 1994 Vigor GS Manual Car 2: 1997 RL	Just finished timing-belt chg, valve adjustment, spark plugs, tb cleaning, Redline in the trans, Mobil1 in the engine, on my new-to-me Vigor (192k). The crank pulley bolt came off a lot easier than I thought...put it in 5th, had girlfriend hold brake, and used a 5-foot breaker bar. Came loose on first push...definitely couldn't have done it without a breaker bar...or girlfriend. Called Acura and asked about replacing seals and waterpump, they said just inspect the seals for oil leaks and water pump shaft for looseness or grittyness. Seals and pump were good so left them as is. Old spark plugs must have been the ones from the factory 'cause they were erroded like crazy!...probably over double the specified gap because of it. Took them to Acura to inspect them and tell me if I was running rich, lean or burning oil. Acura said they were all good. Valve lash was pretty out of wack, had to adjust every one of them. replaced valve cover seal...seemed to be the only place leaking oil on the engine. TB was pretty gunked up, took half a can of carb cleaner to it. Adjusted idle while at it. Mobil1 of course in the engine. Putting the Redline in the trans has already made a huge difference. 1st-2nd shifts are much smoother, and getting in to 1st and reverse at a stop is much easier. Getting the filler bolt off the trans was harder than the crank pulley bolt. Overall she's purring like a kitten now. Hit the redline a few times today...I think she liked it.

05-15-07, 06:39 PM	#8 (permalink)
woof Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 36 Your Mood: Car 1: 2003 CL 6 Speed Car 2: 96 RL Premium Car 3: 92 and 93 Vigor's both GS	It is a mistake not to change the water pump on any Honda product when changing the Timing Belt. Hope it holds out for the next 90k for ya. They are pretty cheap if you shop them on EBAY.

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