AEM V2 Intake review

[RACER X]

I recieved my AEM V2 Intake Thursday and installed Saturday.

Installation: It actualy took longer to get the stock unit out than installing the new one. I wiggled, pulled and wiggled the stock unit some more but couldn't get it past my tower bar. I ended up having to take the top of the stock unit, if I would have done this to start with I could have saved 15 minutes of fooling around. after the stock unit was out it took 15-20 minutes to install the AEM unit. I made one additional modification. The intake touches the upper radiator hose and when I drove to work Monday I felt the intake and it was very warm all along its length and hot at the radiator hose. I went to Home Depot® and bought a hot water heater blanket for $21 and cut pieces to wrap the radiator hose. The blanket came with aluminum tape which worked perfectly. When I drove to work the next day, 15 miles, the intake was almost ambient air temp and only slightly warmer where it toched the radiator hose. Pics tomorrow

Driving impressions: On the mild cams it sounds pretty much like the stock unit. When the Vtec kicks in, well that's a different story, it really sounds like it's getting down to business. It gives a very loud very throaty sound. Does it make the car quicker? It feels like it does but how much is hp and how much is the adrenaline rush from all the ruckus coming out from under the hood is hard to judge. So off to the dyno.

Dyno: I had my car dyno'd 15 days ago. My engine is bone stock, not including the transmission, with 62,000 miles. I just had a major sevice less than a week before I put it on the dyno. So, it had a new air filter and oil. My best run was 166 hp and 123.3 ft/lbs of torque. Figuring in 15-17% loss in the drivetrain gives 195-200 crank hp. After installing the AEM V2 Intake my best run was 177.2 hp and 130 ft/lb of torque again figuring in drivetrain loss that's about 208.5-213.5 crank hp. The biggest hp gain was 15 hp at 7,500 rpm, 160 hp stock and 175 with the AEM V2 at the wheels. The biggest torque gains were in the low rpm range from 3,200 rpm to the Vtec point of 5,700 rpm, averaging a gain of over 10 ft/lbs. Bellow 5,700 rpm the hp gain was about 5 hp throughout.

[Slynky]

I'm probably wrong but I thought I read somewhere (Comptech site?) that the difference between WHP and CrankHP was around 13-14%. Too lazy to go look but it seems like it was where it was talking about the S/C.

[TireMeltingRSX]

Good write up

[djbme83]

very nice write up. very informative. looking forward to seeing the pics!

[blueLS01]

good write up. Slynky, its just an assumption most people make with a FWD vehicle and a manual trans that u lose about 15% going from motor to wheels

[Slynky]

Originally Posted by blueLS01

Slynky, its just an assumption most people make with a FWD vehicle and a manual trans that u lose about 15% going from motor to wheels

Crap, can't find it now. 15% is a good round figure, supposing my memory is correct abuot the 13-14 percent I read somewhere. I jsut thought that since Racer was showing decimal points, he was concerned about accuracy a lot and I mentioned what I thought I remembered.

[rewsintegra]

why is the stock intake so restrictive on the rsx. honda spends millions on engine research to make the k20 a badass, then they are like now lets make the intake quiet and get rid of 10hp or so. i think that extra 10 hp would make people look at the rsx in a different way. not to mention, who doesnt like the sound of an intake. they should have a quiet intake as a dealer option if u want a quiet car with less emissions.

[Slynky]

Originally Posted by rewsintegra

why is the stock intake so restrictive on the rsx. honda spends millions on engine research to make the k20 a badass, then they are like now lets make the intake quiet and get rid of 10hp or so. i think that extra 10 hp would make people look at the rsx in a different way. not to mention, who doesnt like the sound of an intake. they should have a quiet intake as a dealer option if u want a quiet car with less emissions.

fuckin' ()

[RACER X]

It would be difficult to know exactly what the drivetrain loss is, but you have to take into account modifications made to said drivetrain. Adding 1” larger diameter break rotors even if they weigh the same as the stock rotors can cost 2hp or more. I have an LSD which is heavier than stock there is an extra 1% and my wheels are 1” larger and wider than stock and with the tires are about 3lbs heavier that is probably at least another 2%. Adding 3% loss to 13%-14% gives you 16%-17%.

Further driving impressions: I live in probably the second hilliest major city in the US next to San Francisco. If you live here you either become very good at driving a manual or you get an automatic. Today is the first day since I added the intake that I had to drive downtown and with the added low end torque it is noticeably easier to start from a complete stop on a steep hill.

I added the insulation after the install, this was kind of a pain in the ass. If you do it, do it while the intake is off.

[Slynky]

Didn't mean to impune your figures. Just repeating something I heard. You obviously have more of a handle on it than I do (fer sure!). You also got some SHIT on your ride!

[RACER X]

Picture from another angle. Thought I would throw in a shot of my front suspension while I was changing from winter to summer wheels.

[TireMeltingRSX]

mmmmm, the mugen ss, nice! And the stoptech brakes look nice too.

[Slynky]

Hey Racer...since you had a dyno done, could you tell me how they do it, how long it takes, etc.?

[RACER X]

The dynojet that they have where I do mine is on a lift I know some are mounted at floor level, but it works the same. In my case you drive onto the lift they raise you up then you pull forward so your front wheels, in the case of a FWD car, are on a roller. They synch the car down with straps, hook leads onto your ignition system to measure rpm. You restart your car start going up through the gears to third or fourth, usually fourth for a six speed, then you mash the pedal down, mash is a technical term. When you hit the rev limiter you let of the gas and put in the clutch and let it coast to a stop. Usually you do at least two runs. The whole thing takes 15 minutes, and about $45.

[TireMeltingRSX]

What's the reason for lifting the car?