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Old 07-30-03, 03:17 PM   #1 (permalink)
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JL Audio amps... Slash-series, e-series??

What's the difference between the Slash series and the e series?


I've been checking out the e series specs, and the power rating doesn't go up as you move up to bigger amps. Is the e series a special-purpose amp or something?

And is it safe to buy on Ebay, if the seller rating is good?

If somebody could give me a run-down on the JL Audio amp lines, that'd be great.






Is there any place online where I can look up their prices?


Also, to power 2 10" Kenwood Tornadoes, rated at 4 ohm, which would be a better amp --- E2150 or 250/1?

Right now, I have an E1200 amp powering those two subs. It hits pretty nice with that setup, but the problem is, the amp cuts out or goes into protection mode when I crank it up and leave it there for a few minutes. Would upgrading to a bigger amp solve this problem? If so, which one would you guys recommend? I don't have a lot of money to spend, though.
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Old 07-30-03, 05:56 PM   #2
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I have never heard of anyone ordering the e-series amps, but I guess they are new. I would stick with the slash series, they may be expensive, but great quality. The only thing is that with JL Audio products, there are no authorized online resellers. Meaning that if there is any warranty problem or something breaks, you could be out of luck or you'd have to pay to get something fixed. http://www.purecaraudio.com/store.asp caries JL products, but still no waranties.

Before anyone can tell you what would be better, what is the recommended RMS of 1 10" tornadoe. Also is it single or dual voice coil?

There are also alot of other good amps out there for lower prices than JL (which is normally expensive). Or do you want to just stick with JL?
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Old 07-30-03, 06:34 PM   #3
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I kind of want to stick with JL, but if there's a better deal out there, then I'll take it.

The Kenwood subs have 400 peak watts, and around 200 (can't remember the exact number, but it's right around there) "contant/normal" RMS. Not sure if it's single or dual voice coil, though.
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- '03 TL-S
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- 18x7.5 Enkei ZR2, Toyo T1-S, Tein SS w/ EDFC, Comptech sway bars, SPC camber kit, Rotora BBK, rear slotted rotors
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- Spoon T-stat, T-switch, 1.35 bar cap, AEM CAI, OBX SS headers, UR pulleys, V-AFC II, Thermoblok Spacer Kit, Yellow Top w/ V6P battery terminals
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- OEM kit custom molded, 3M Ti 35% tint, cleared headlights, Grille-Tech grilles, HID foglights
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Old 07-30-03, 06:40 PM   #4
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Oh, by the way, how is the 250/1 amp? It says it's monoblock, with the R.I.P.S. technology (sounds cool ) and 250 watts for the single channel.

My E1200 is also monoblock, sending approximately 120 watts to the 2 subs.

If I were to upgrade to the 250/1, would it still have the same sound clarity, but more power, and less chance of overheating and therefore shutting down/going into protection mode?

And is 300 bucks a good price for the 250/1?
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- '03 TL-S
Suspension
- 18x7.5 Enkei ZR2, Toyo T1-S, Tein SS w/ EDFC, Comptech sway bars, SPC camber kit, Rotora BBK, rear slotted rotors
Engine
- Spoon T-stat, T-switch, 1.35 bar cap, AEM CAI, OBX SS headers, UR pulleys, V-AFC II, Thermoblok Spacer Kit, Yellow Top w/ V6P battery terminals
Visual
- OEM kit custom molded, 3M Ti 35% tint, cleared headlights, Grille-Tech grilles, HID foglights
Audio
- JL 500/1, 2 12W3v2, Remote Bass Control, RF cap, dynamat
Protection
- Valentine 1 w/ concealed display
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Old 07-30-03, 07:27 PM   #5
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ok first things first - how do you currently have you speakers wired?

Because in your current setup you are probabbly not sending 120w. (someone else please correct me if I am wrong, but I am pretty sure you are doing 1 of 2 things.)

1. With your subs in series you would be getting an 8ohm load and would only be sending 60w (maybe 80w) total to the pair of subs, this ohm load is a high resistance and would probabbly not be causing a protection mode because the amp would not be working that hard.

2. Subs in parallel - then you would be getting a 2 ohm load and sending 200w to the pair of subs. This is more likely that you have it wired like this because less resisteance (ohm load) causes the amp to work harder, possibly shutting down.


I would say the easist thing for you to do is to stick with the JL, because of the good quality, and you're familiar with them. 250/1 is good but the 300/2 would be optimal. With the 250/1 you would wire them in parallel to get 125w to each sub @ 2ohms. But with the 300/2 you get 150w to each sub @ 8 ohms, and if you bridge the 300/2 you would be able to handle the 8 ohm load and it would probabbly be easiest on your amp/battery.

And in regards to price, 300 is good for the 250/1, keep in mind JL is expensive, but ususally worth it. It might not matter if you wanted to buy off of eBay because there is no warranty either way... but actuallu purecaraudio.com is pretty good on prices. I would say spend the extra 30$ and get the 300/2. It just seems to fit into you system much more nicely.

There are also alternative amplifiers, but I would need more specific info on your subs to help you there.
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Old 07-30-03, 07:44 PM   #6
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dan -- Thanks so much for the info.

The way it's set up right now, there are two pairs of wires coming out of the amp -- each pair (positive and negative) goes to each sub. I don't know if that's sufficient information or not, but would that be scenario 1 or 2??

The subs are rated at 4 ohm.

Mine (E1200) is monoblock, they said. So is the 250/1. That means one channel, correct? However, where it says channel in this picture http://www.jlaudio.com/amps/images/e...d/e1200SO.html that's not where the wires come out from. Rather, they are hooked up to the other side of the amp. I can't find a picture of it, but there's 3 ports for ground, power, and remote... then there are 4 ports... for two pairs of wires.

I hope that makes sense. I"m stereo system illiterate.
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- '03 TL-S
Suspension
- 18x7.5 Enkei ZR2, Toyo T1-S, Tein SS w/ EDFC, Comptech sway bars, SPC camber kit, Rotora BBK, rear slotted rotors
Engine
- Spoon T-stat, T-switch, 1.35 bar cap, AEM CAI, OBX SS headers, UR pulleys, V-AFC II, Thermoblok Spacer Kit, Yellow Top w/ V6P battery terminals
Visual
- OEM kit custom molded, 3M Ti 35% tint, cleared headlights, Grille-Tech grilles, HID foglights
Audio
- JL 500/1, 2 12W3v2, Remote Bass Control, RF cap, dynamat
Protection
- Valentine 1 w/ concealed display
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Old 07-30-03, 07:46 PM   #7
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I know nothing about car stereos, my suburban has a sick system (around 1500 watts). But I couldn't tell you jack shit except for the brands I have




<------ losssssseeeeeeeeeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrrrrrr
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Old 07-30-03, 07:47 PM   #8
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Same with me. I had a 1,000-watt system in my Tahoe and the only thing I did was pay for it. I don't know anything.
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- '03 TL-S
Suspension
- 18x7.5 Enkei ZR2, Toyo T1-S, Tein SS w/ EDFC, Comptech sway bars, SPC camber kit, Rotora BBK, rear slotted rotors
Engine
- Spoon T-stat, T-switch, 1.35 bar cap, AEM CAI, OBX SS headers, UR pulleys, V-AFC II, Thermoblok Spacer Kit, Yellow Top w/ V6P battery terminals
Visual
- OEM kit custom molded, 3M Ti 35% tint, cleared headlights, Grille-Tech grilles, HID foglights
Audio
- JL 500/1, 2 12W3v2, Remote Bass Control, RF cap, dynamat
Protection
- Valentine 1 w/ concealed display
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Old 07-30-03, 07:49 PM   #9
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yea, i'm in your boat, except I did part of the install



But my buddy the other day was listening to it and was like, you need to tune this thing. I looked at him like "yea, sure". In my head I was going," you can fuckin tune these things???"
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Old 07-30-03, 07:52 PM   #10
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Dan --

With the 300/2 amp, the spec says 150 watts RMS x 2. That means each sub gets 150 watts, correct?
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- '03 TL-S
Suspension
- 18x7.5 Enkei ZR2, Toyo T1-S, Tein SS w/ EDFC, Comptech sway bars, SPC camber kit, Rotora BBK, rear slotted rotors
Engine
- Spoon T-stat, T-switch, 1.35 bar cap, AEM CAI, OBX SS headers, UR pulleys, V-AFC II, Thermoblok Spacer Kit, Yellow Top w/ V6P battery terminals
Visual
- OEM kit custom molded, 3M Ti 35% tint, cleared headlights, Grille-Tech grilles, HID foglights
Audio
- JL 500/1, 2 12W3v2, Remote Bass Control, RF cap, dynamat
Protection
- Valentine 1 w/ concealed display
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Old 07-30-03, 07:55 PM   #11
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that doesn't sound like a lot of power to the subs


I have to JL W6's and they are on a 800/2 amp I think (I'll shut up now, cause I don't know shit)
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Old 07-30-03, 08:18 PM   #12
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Keep in mind that a TL-S has a lot less space to shake up, especially in the trunk. Even with my E1200 right now, the rear view mirror shakes pretty hard, and I have to adjust it just about everyday. Maybe it's not the same with every system, but with only 120 watts going to the subs, it hits nice. The shop that did it knew what they were doing, and even on my budget, they recommended the best set up. I'll most likely be purchasing the upgrade amp there, as well.


Dan -- where ya hiding at?

Help me out here.



MY MAIN CONCERN -- is that the current amp goes into protection mode for whatever reasons (overheating, maybe?) when I crank up the volume and leave it there, especially with songs that have a lot of bass. It's very annoying, especially on hot humid days, and I was wondering if upgrading to a 300/2 or 250/1 would solve this problem.
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- '03 TL-S
Suspension
- 18x7.5 Enkei ZR2, Toyo T1-S, Tein SS w/ EDFC, Comptech sway bars, SPC camber kit, Rotora BBK, rear slotted rotors
Engine
- Spoon T-stat, T-switch, 1.35 bar cap, AEM CAI, OBX SS headers, UR pulleys, V-AFC II, Thermoblok Spacer Kit, Yellow Top w/ V6P battery terminals
Visual
- OEM kit custom molded, 3M Ti 35% tint, cleared headlights, Grille-Tech grilles, HID foglights
Audio
- JL 500/1, 2 12W3v2, Remote Bass Control, RF cap, dynamat
Protection
- Valentine 1 w/ concealed display
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Old 07-30-03, 08:20 PM   #13
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it's always better to not overpower





wait, what am I thinking, i completely retract that statement!
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Old 07-30-03, 08:52 PM   #14
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Pure adreneline:

NEW SCENARIO, I also have a monoblock amp, and somehow this slipped my mind, I forgot about the dual speaker-wire terminals, even mine has this. But anyway, the real thing that is happening is that 120w is going to both subs as you suspected. I guess it goes into protection because you have to use full power all the time.

No matter which one, upgrading to the slash series, which are classic JL Audio quality, should help your system. The 250/1 would be providing 125w to each sub, double of what you are currently putting out. The load on that amplifier would be 4ohms, the same as you are running now. This would definatly be a good upgrade and maybe doubling the power will give you enough watts to not have to have it working at max all the time. But you should also consider spending 10% more and getting the 300/2 although it would be giving only 25w more per sub (150w) it would be running at 8 ohms. So that amp would have even less of a chance of getting overworked.

But either way definatly upgrade your amp.
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Old 07-30-03, 09:17 PM   #15
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Since there is obviously a lack of power in your amplifier as well as an overworking problem. The ideal setup would be for you to get an amp that was large and efficient and then it would be working much less. i.e. Get a amp rated at 1600w @ 4 ohms, then wire the subs in series to increase the resistence to 8 ohms, then it would be working at 800w @ 8 ohms, then turn the gains to 1/2 power so then it would be working at 400w @ 8 ohms, that amplifier would only be working at 25% of its ability and there would really be no chance of overworking it.
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Maya DTS 19x7.5 Chrome
Toyo Proxy T1-S 235/40/ZR19
debadged
20% tint all around
SUB: 12" Eclipse Titanium
AMP: US Acoustics 1000D
HID: Philips D2R 6000K
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