Ok, time to start puttin everything back together. Do a good job on the cleaning. Make sure ALL the old gaskets are scraped off, you don't want to find you have a leak once everything is back together. As you put the different pieces back together, you also might want to "detail" them up as well. Your engine probably won't be apart like this for a while, so if your up for it, do a nice job detailing the various pieces.
As you put the pieces back together, all the gaskets need to be replaced. Spray each new gasket with the instant gasket. This will provide a stronger seal as well as holding the gasket in place while you get the bolts in.
For the most part, everything is done in reverse order. I just want to provide a little advice, some torque specs, and pics to help along the way.
***Torque Specs: All the 10mm Bolts and nuts get torqued to 8.7 lbft/12 Nm. All 12 mm bolts get torqued to 16 lbft/22 Nm***
24. Start by putting the EGR plate on the intake manifold chamber. The 3 bolts get torqued to 8.7 lbft or 12 Nm
25. Assemble the manifold upside down. The 5 bolts and 2 nuts get torqued to 16 lbft or 22 Nm. Torque the bolts and nuts as you would a drum (i.e. cross pattern; if you were looking at a clock, that would be 1,7,2,8,3,9...)
26. Call a friend for the next step. Holding the manifold on its side over the engine, place the water passage in between the manifold and the throttle body. The throttle body attaches directly to the manifold with 3 bolts (torque to 16 lbft/22 Nm) while the water passage is held in between the two. Remember to watch out for the throttle and cruise control cables.
27. Spray the intake gaskets and set them into place. Place the manifold assembly over and bolt down the manifold and water passage. The 4 bolts on the water passage get 8.7 lbft/12 Nm of love and the manifold nuts and bolts get 16 lbft/22 Nm. Once again, do the drum style tightening to the manifold head.
28. Once the manifold is set and in place, venture into the back and reattach the EGR Pipe, EGR valve, mounting bracket, wire harness, vacuum solenoids. This is where the labeling helps out. Reconnect all the various vacuum pipes to there proper locations.
29. Move back to the front and reattach the TCS valve, and air cleaner. There are once again a lot of pipes so reference the photos from steps 14-16.
30. Time to reinstall the fuel injectors. Remove all the old insulators and seal rings from the bottom of the injectors. Insert the new insulators in the manifold. Coat the new seal rings with oil and stick them into the manifold. Place one side of the fuel rail into place. Make sure you here a little popping sound to knwo its in there good. Next, applying constant pressure to the rails, put the retainer nuts on both bolts. Do the same for the other side
***If you don't use the nuts to hold the fuel rail in place, it will pop out and it won't seat properly. I made this mistake. Do one side at a time.** Reconnect all the vacuum hoses, connectors ect ect.
**Important: The service bolt on top of the fuel filter gets torqed to 16 lbft/22 Nm. If it is not torqed properly, it WILL leak fuel***
31. Once everything is back together, turn the ignition to ON(II)..do not start the car. You will here the fuel pump come on and build up pressure in the lines. Check extensivly for leaks with the injectors, fuel lines ect.
32. Give the car a start. It will sound and idle wierd for a while. It has to burn off all that wd-40 and carb cleaner you hopefully sprayed EVERYWHERE, along with the loss of all that coolant that is all over the floor. Give it time.
I hope this was helpful to any and all who are having the same symptoms. It took me 2 days to do this. Take your time, label and torque everything properly and it will be well worth it. This is my first DIY, so please give some feedback. If I left anything important out please let me know.