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| 1st Gen RL Forum for the 1996-2004 Acura RL |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
![]() Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Folsom, CA
Posts: 139
Car 1: '00 Gold RL Car 2: '98 740il Car 3: '79 Saab 99 & '87 Accord |
strut replacment...
All,
I'm putting my struts on the car and got a little stuck. Front ones went on w/o a problem and they ride AWESOME. However, I got to the rear and didn't order the lower bushing where the strut mounts and cannot press out the bushing. Do you guys know if there's a way to do this? If I don't hear from anyone I'm going to break down and go to the stealership and buy two. Last edited by jinny : 12-17-03 at 04:08 PM. |
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#2 (permalink) | ||
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jinny=guy, avatar=girl
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Porter Ranch, CA (aka Northridge)
Age: 39
Posts: 17,084
Your Mood:
Car 1: NaplesGoldMetallicRL |
I'm a little confused...are you saying that the new strut that you bought doesn't have the lower bushing?
So it only has a metal sleeve a little over an inch in diameter? and they expect you to press out the old bushing and install it with your new struts? Are these oem struts? from what I remember there is only a single damper mounting bolt at the bottom that comes out and releases the strut... and the strut should have a bushing already installed.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
![]() Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Folsom, CA
Posts: 139
Car 1: '00 Gold RL Car 2: '98 740il Car 3: '79 Saab 99 & '87 Accord |
Jinny,
These are OEM struts from an Acura dealer www.acuraautomotiveparts.org. After not being able to press it out I went back to the website and found that the bushing is separate from the strut. However, if you purchase the whole strut assembly for approx $265, they include the bushing. I just purchased the strut. All my rubber and bushings looked great before I ordered. I guess it's off to the stealership |
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#4 (permalink) | ||
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jinny=guy, avatar=girl
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Porter Ranch, CA (aka Northridge)
Age: 39
Posts: 17,084
Your Mood:
Car 1: NaplesGoldMetallicRL |
ah, I think I understand now...
I didn't know you could buy only the strut. ![]() I have not had any experience with that. ![]() On my other cars, I have always used an entire assembly... I haven't changed shocks on my RL yet, so I have yet to experience the exact nature of our set up... I have looked at it but not enough to discern exactly what is needed. Good luck on that. I will file your experience in my brain... you may get a whole mess of pestering when it comes time for me to change mine ![]()
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#5 (permalink) |
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Acuraworld Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 63
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Sorry but I dont have a scanner, and my camera is messed up, so I dont have the diagrams in format from my program that I can post the pics, so no figures to look at, but this may help.
96-00 ACURA 3.5 RL Suspension (REAR)- DESCRIPTION: RL uses an independent an independent control arm suspension system. Suspension consists of a vertically mounted strut and coil spring connected to a knuckle/spindle assembly, control arm, one or two lower control arms, trailing arm and a stabilizer bar. FIG 1 Exploded view of rear suspension ADJUSTMENT AND INSPECTION N/A for your problem, (this is for alignment) REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION: HUB/BEARING ASSEMBLY Removal and installation: raise and support rear of vehicle. Remove wheel assembly. Remove caliper, and wire it aside. Remove brake disc. Remove hub cap. Pry spindle nut lock tab away from spindle, and remove nut. Remove hub/bearing assembly . See figure 1. To install reverse removal procedure. UPPER AND LOWER CONTROL ARMS. Control arms are not interchangeable,. Note painted ID markings. STRUT ASSEMBLY Warning: strut contains pressurized nitrogen gas. To dispose of properly drill a 2mm hole at base of strut. Eye protection! Removal Lift and support vehicle. Remove wheel assembly. Remove rear speaker. Remove strut mounting base nuts(2) se figure 2. Place floor jack under lower control arm. Compress strut slightly. Remove lower mounting nut. Lower rear suspension. Remove strut assembly. Disassembly Compress strut spring with spring compressor. DO NOT compress spring more than necessary to remove 10mm self locking nut. Remove 10mmself locking nut. Remove spring compressor. Note component location and disabemble by removing components. …. |
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#7 (permalink) | ||
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jinny=guy, avatar=girl
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Porter Ranch, CA (aka Northridge)
Age: 39
Posts: 17,084
Your Mood:
Car 1: NaplesGoldMetallicRL |
looking at this picture you posted...
![]() I can see what you are talking about... that stinks... I can't believe that the OEM struts don't come with that bushing... those things almost always seize and wont come free easily... if you are still waiting for the bushing... you might want to try this... first soak that think in penetrating oil (some swear by coke for stuck bolts so you might wanna try that too). then build a little rig out of sockets wrench sockets, washers, nuts and bolts... so basically get a big socket that is just big enough to match up with the outside of the bushing... the part of the strut that is holding the bushing... then get another socket that is the exact same diameter as the bushing or a little smaller... put one socket on one side, the other socket on the other side, put big washers on the ends and pass a long strong bolt thru the sockets and the bushing and then bolt it up... if you are following my train of thought, you should be able to figure where I'm going with this... if everything is lined up, when you start tightening the bolt and nut it should start pushing the bushing out... If that doesn't seem to get it free, you can always use a hacksaw to carefully cut into the old strut area surrounding the bushing... being carefull to only cut the old strut and not the bushing (although a little nick in the bushing should be okay... you can cut it in a couple places and then pry the metal away with a chisel or screwdriver. Frankly, I'd do the hacksaw thing... since I wouldn't be planning on using the old struts again anyways... mounting the old strut in a vice might be a good idea too, just to hold it while you are hacking away. Oh, I assume you have a spring compressor for the job.... cause you'll need one. but since you say you got your fronts in already, I'm gonna assume you do have one.
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Last edited by jinny : 12-17-03 at 01:21 AM. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
![]() Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Folsom, CA
Posts: 139
Car 1: '00 Gold RL Car 2: '98 740il Car 3: '79 Saab 99 & '87 Accord |
Jinny,
Those are good ideas that I'm going to store away for later use. The Bushings should (let's pray) be here by Fedex today. I'm working from home - so I'm waiting with bells on. I have a clamshell compressor which has been the best investment ever! Brently |
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#10 (permalink) | ||
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jinny=guy, avatar=girl
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Porter Ranch, CA (aka Northridge)
Age: 39
Posts: 17,084
Your Mood:
Car 1: NaplesGoldMetallicRL |
okay... done!
but I'm gonna take it down once we get a better one up... and I'm changing the title too...
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#11 (permalink) |
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Acuraworld Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 63
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Yeah that is a rip-off. (the strut being distributed without the bearings seated that are needed) I gues that may be done that way so that the general public "auto tweeker" can use the strut bearing they prefer, and can put the company sticker on their windshield, or wearever. Sorry bout any grammar.
The way I see things a part of a system or subsystem or component or what ever, is only as strong as; or will perform with as much quality as; that parts weakest component. Bearings wear with prolong use, as does the strut itself. A new strut with the old bearings would seem (for lack of better words) unable to justify the time, money, effort, and all around inconvienience and pain in the ass of replacing the strut. I gues it would be like spending 2000$ on a set of r ims that require another 2000$ for rubber, and all of this for a car that aint worth a grand, has a rebuilt title, and its main structural material is bondo. Anyway it sucks that the strut didnt come with the bearing installed and seated as required by the manufacturer. Are you positive that the bearing isn;t seated in a bushing and 'grease-glued' to the strut. If you are going to have to buy a new one anyway, might as well hammer away and see what happens. I dont have alot of suspension experience, it may be really simple. But I would think that he bearing would need to be installed properly aligned and in tune with the rest of the strut or wear would be an issue down the road. probably have to turn the bearing like a combination lock, line up some marks and then it will pull itself out. Hear of crazyer things. This damn car of mine (96) never quits amazing me as to the complexity of every little thing. seems like everything in the car has a solinoid monitors itself. Next it'll be a check ashtray light in the intrument cluster when the tray is full and needs to be dumped. I gues the numbers speak for themself. My ride will run a damn hole in the wind. And I have no doubt that it will continue to run well. sorry way of subject, just a slice of pie. Good luck keep us posted, interested in learning how-to-do. ![]() |
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#13 (permalink) | ||
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jinny=guy, avatar=girl
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Porter Ranch, CA (aka Northridge)
Age: 39
Posts: 17,084
Your Mood:
Car 1: NaplesGoldMetallicRL |
that missing part is more a bushing than a bearing... since it doesn't need to spin a bearing is not needed. what it is supposed to do is to allow some play where the struts are mounted to the car... since the travel is not perfectly aligned there will be some forces (torsional, flexing, tilting, etc) on that joint that a solid mounting would not accomodate.
that bushing is basically a small tube/cylinder of metal with a bigger tube/cylinder of metal around it and some space between the two tubes/cylinders that is filled with a tough rubber material. Smacking it with a hammer may get it out, but it will probably damage the bushing for sure. A machine press would work well if you have access to one, or the socket/washer/nut/bolt setup I mentioned above. I would probably change the bushing when I change the struts, I don't think it would be that expensive... I bought a pair of bushings for my honda accord for $20 so, these couldn't run more that double... right? ![]() Well in any case, I'm glad I know about this, now I'll know to make sure I get these too.
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#14 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 48
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hey... my rl has been making a clunking noise @ the front passenger side for a couple months. my tech's were unable to determine the cause. the clunking took place whenever id go over bumps (large or small) and also you can hear a clunk when you just tap the break. It almost sounds like something is loose, but the drive quality is fine.
Well last weekend they said they finally found the noise (after the 3rd time checking in 9 months). THey say its the "bushing" and i need to replace this. Does this sound right and how much would i be looking to spend for a Bushing. i also assume the garage has to go through the dealer to obtain it? thanks again. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Acuraworld Junior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Age: 62
Posts: 1
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Does anyone know of an aftermartket strut for the RL?
I had the car, 96 RL on jack stands for about 4 hours and the full extensoin of the suspension did something ro the strut valves. I now have a big go cart! The front struts are locked up! Has anyone experienced this? |
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