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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-08-06, 12:31 AM Thread Starter
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how to oil changes

hey people ive been changing the oil on all my hondas up unitl now when i got my 03 tl type s and have some concerns before i tackle this project
first where is the oil filter plug located and best place to approch it ?
second where is the oil filter located and best way to approch it?
3 which kind of oil ya using 5w30 5w40 10w40 etc? and what kind and brand ya feel works best in ya rides.
third how many quarts does it take?
i have some spare 00 civic oil filters and im preety sure they fit since they all the same

any help would be greatful...
thanks a million
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post #2 of 15 Old 01-08-06, 01:42 AM
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You pretty much have to jack up your car.

The oil filter is located close to the passenger side wheel, and the drain plug is around there as well.

Use whatever the oil cap says. Here in Canada, it uses 5W20. Not sure in the US. It takes 4.2 litres of oil (sorry don't know how much in quarts).

And yes you can use the 00 Civic oil filter.

Very easy to do, and doesn't get messy...except maybe some oil dripping on the subframe when removing the oil filter.

Good luck and have fun!!
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post #3 of 15 Old 01-08-06, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pole Position
You pretty much have to jack up your car.

The oil filter is located close to the passenger side wheel, and the drain plug is around there as well.

Use whatever the oil cap says. Here in Canada, it uses 5W20. Not sure in the US. It takes 4.2 litres of oil (sorry don't know how much in quarts).

And yes you can use the 00 Civic oil filter.

Very easy to do, and doesn't get messy...except maybe some oil dripping on the subframe when removing the oil filter.

Good luck and have fun!!
got a torque spec for the drain plug? i'm waiting for my helm's manual (just for all the torque specs) to arrive before i start all the work on my car...
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post #4 of 15 Old 01-08-06, 02:16 PM
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33 or 34...can't remember exactly. Oh make sure you replace with a new drain plug washer/gasket.
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post #5 of 15 Old 01-08-06, 04:06 PM
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For the oil filter, just turn the wheel all the way to one side, and you'll see the filter. Also of note, you can use a bigger filter. I don't remember what the standard stock numbers are, but for the Mobil filters, the stock size is M1-104 and the oversized one (bigger diameter body) is M1-105.

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post #6 of 15 Old 01-08-06, 06:04 PM Thread Starter
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do i really have to change the oil drain plug and the washer i rarely changed the washer on my civics? and do i really need a bigger oil filter than the regular civic filter? same models just in a bigger size ? ya lost me?
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post #7 of 15 Old 01-08-06, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thejedimex
do i really have to change the oil drain plug and the washer i rarely changed the washer on my civics? and do i really need a bigger oil filter than the regular civic filter? same models just in a bigger size ? ya lost me?
You need to jack up the car and support it with jackstands. Turn the wheel all the way to the left and you can see the oil filter just behind the passenger wheel. You need to change the "Crush washer." I used the same one for mine and it does not leak. This next oil change I will put a new one. As far as oil, I think the best oil would be Mobil 1. You don't have to get an oversized filter, I don't see any need in it.

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post #8 of 15 Old 01-09-06, 01:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thejedimex
do i really have to change the oil drain plug and the washer i rarely changed the washer on my civics? and do i really need a bigger oil filter than the regular civic filter? same models just in a bigger size ? ya lost me?
technically speaking, you do..

the crush washer is "crushed" to form a complete seal at a certain torque spec. that's why its important to use a torque wrench on drain plugs. re-using an already crushed washer could lead to leaks since the washer can no longer be deformed to fill in the gaps between the pan and the head of the bolt.

changing this out with each time you remove the plug ensures no leaks from the drain plug over the life of the engine... especially if its always been torqued correctly.

if its' always been done by hand, chances are its been over tightened. this could cause the miniscule gaps between the bolt head and the pan to get deeper as the tightening of the bolt causes the washer to dig into the pan... over time, this will cause leaks from the drain plug area. this is worst when a shop uses air tools to tighten the bolts back on...
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post #9 of 15 Old 01-11-06, 12:48 AM Thread Starter
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man forgot it
it seems more complicated to change it myself i thought it would be llike changing the oil on my old 00 si and other civics for that matter i guess ill keep paying the dealer.. thanks for the help people
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post #10 of 15 Old 01-11-06, 12:51 AM
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or you could get a fluid evacuator (like a mityvac) and just suck out all the oil through the dip stick tube and just change the filter like you normally do... that'll be the easiest way... maybe takes 15-20 mins of your time...
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post #11 of 15 Old 01-16-06, 10:05 PM
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I have a 99TL and change the oil every 3k. Turn the wheel to the right and you can access the filter without ramps or jackin the car up. I use Honda Filters only. They cost about $6 at the dealer and they include the washer for the drain plug. I've have changed the oil in my Honda products for the last 20 year and have never had a leak and have never torqued the drain plug down. It needs to be snug. The oil filter should be tightened 7/8 of a turn after contact. They have never leaked either. I've put 612,000 miles on my honda cars. All 3 used the same oil filter. Honda is smart enough not to change them with each engine. Love the Acura since I don't have to use ramps or lift the car to change the oil. I use Castrol GTX 5/30 weight here in N.C. The Acura is heck of a lot easier than changing the oil in my old 91 Accord. I fill the oil filter up with oil before screwing it in. This gives the engine instant oil pressure. You can use an electric switch connected to the Positive battery terminal and the starter to turn the engine to PUMP up the oil before starting the car after changeing the filter and oil. These are available at auto parts stores=This is proper procedure but you can by pass this by filling the filter with oil before screwing it on. It's really simple and I always check under the car for leaks and I check the contant velocity joint boots when changing the oil. It also saves me $10-15 each change. You can buy Castrol at Wally mart or auto stores on sale. Just check the circulars and save $$$$. No need to use synthetic unless you want to spend more money and drive like hell or on a race track. These cars simply don't need Synthetic. Dont' let any bozo tell you that they do. Synthetic is WASTE OF MONEY>I put 304,000 miles on my Accord using Castrol using the above technique and it still ran fine when I sold it last Sept. (2005) I never have used Synthetic, but some people here will tell you that its' the best thing since sliced bread. JUST A WASTE OF MONEY!
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post #12 of 15 Old 01-17-06, 12:20 AM
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i change my oil every 5000-7500 is that ok or is that a bad idea?
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post #13 of 15 Old 01-17-06, 12:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thejedimex
and do i really need a bigger oil filter than the regular civic filter? same models just in a bigger size ?
I dunno what filter the civic uses. As for the filter, you don't have to use the oversized one, but I think the prices are the same or really close so why not use a bigger one with a larger filter area. Plus it makes it so if you got the autoparts store, and if they're out of one, you can get the other.

Don't let the dealer change it. Its no more difficult than the civic. Drain, swap filter, refill. Don't let the washer keep you from doing it - I get mine in a 4 pack for like 2 bucks I think.

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post #14 of 15 Old 01-18-06, 11:33 AM
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oil change

if i remember, its 17mm, 5 quarts, and the oil i use is 5w30, and the oil filter i forget...sorry

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post #15 of 15 Old 01-18-06, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke7
I have a 99TL and change the oil every 3k. Turn the wheel to the right and you can access the filter without ramps or jackin the car up. I use Honda Filters only. They cost about $6 at the dealer and they include the washer for the drain plug. I've have changed the oil in my Honda products for the last 20 year and have never had a leak and have never torqued the drain plug down. It needs to be snug. The oil filter should be tightened 7/8 of a turn after contact. They have never leaked either. I've put 612,000 miles on my honda cars. All 3 used the same oil filter. Honda is smart enough not to change them with each engine. Love the Acura since I don't have to use ramps or lift the car to change the oil. I use Castrol GTX 5/30 weight here in N.C. The Acura is heck of a lot easier than changing the oil in my old 91 Accord. I fill the oil filter up with oil before screwing it in. This gives the engine instant oil pressure. You can use an electric switch connected to the Positive battery terminal and the starter to turn the engine to PUMP up the oil before starting the car after changeing the filter and oil. These are available at auto parts stores=This is proper procedure but you can by pass this by filling the filter with oil before screwing it on. It's really simple and I always check under the car for leaks and I check the contant velocity joint boots when changing the oil. It also saves me $10-15 each change. You can buy Castrol at Wally mart or auto stores on sale. Just check the circulars and save $$$$. No need to use synthetic unless you want to spend more money and drive like hell or on a race track. These cars simply don't need Synthetic. Dont' let any bozo tell you that they do. Synthetic is WASTE OF MONEY>I put 304,000 miles on my Accord using Castrol using the above technique and it still ran fine when I sold it last Sept. (2005) I never have used Synthetic, but some people here will tell you that its' the best thing since sliced bread. JUST A WASTE OF MONEY!
wow, dude. youre an image of myself and im glad my techniques have been right all along.
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