05 TSX 32k miles needs break job??? - Acura Forum

hiptsx · 02-21-08, 04:10 PM

Hello All,

I have a 05 TSX with about 32000 miles on it. When I went to get the 30k service done at the dealer, I was told my break pads are on the low and will probably need to be replaced next time I'm due for service - around 35000 miles.

I was told that the rear brakes are more used up than the front ones. I also find when breaking the brake pedal does go in deep.

I commute via train to work, so most of my car trips are about 5-10 miles a day with mixed city/highway driving. I have had this car for about 3 years now, and I by no means drive rough on it or "slam" on the brakes everytime I need to stop.

I am considering changing all 4 break pads sometime in the next few weeks prior to the 35k service.

Few Questions:

1) 32000miles sound quite low for a 1st time break job. Anyone else experience such wear?
2) What is the avg miles for which a break job is needed for an average driver?
3) The dealer quoted me around $750 for a complete break job. I certainly dont fancy fishing out that much. Anyone have any suggestions to where as I could do for a quality break job other than the dealer? May be a Midas, CarX, Meineke?

As always any suggestions/reccomendations etc are appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

Artillery129 · 02-21-08, 07:14 PM

depends how hard you break all the time, and about the break pedal going in deep, it would change pedal travel only slightly if your breaks are worn, i believe the pedal travel is adjustable as well, I dont have a TSX so dont quote me on that one... good luck bump so people can help you out.

redlight_005 · 02-21-08, 08:00 PM

I'm surprised that your rear brakes are worn more than your front. The front brakes always wear faster, that's where most of your stopping power comes from. I have 46,000 miles on my TSX and do not need brakes yet. Soon, yes, but not quite yet. The pedal will travel slightly farther to make up for the pad thickness, you might notice it if your brakes are worn as much as you say they are, but it shouldnt be a huge difference in travel. Are they spongey? How's your brake fluid level? You may want to flush your brake system and refill with new fluid. Any repair shop should be able to do a decent brake job. Make sure you know what kind of pads you are getting though. I prefer ceramic over the semi-metallics.

OEM Bob · 02-21-08, 11:46 PM

AT 32K that sounds about right for city driving.The other element is are you the only driver? I have nearly 45K on my 2006 Honda Pilot and I'll get another 5-10K off of them as I live in the country. It really all depends on where you live and the type of driving you do.

When you brake do you see diminished brake performance? Like does it take longer to come to a stop and is your pedal is almost down to the floor? Check the brake fluid resevoir to see if you are low. You may have some air in the lines and have to add FRESH brake fluid. Its easy but you need two people. It is not at all unusual on having to add. Finally, have you looked at the pads. All modern cars come with audible wear indicators on the pads that will make noise except when you brake. Thats the time to chage. When you hear grinding noise when you brake its metal against metal and you may have messed up your rotors.

Now $750.00 for a 4 wheel brake job is quite high even for a dealer. All we are talking about is turning the rotors, changing pads, and adding fluid. I could see $400.00 as an avg. figuring on $100 per wheel.

Now typically on a FWD car 60% of the braking is done with the front brakes 40% with the rear. My advice is to look for a reputable shop that perhaps specializes in brakes. I like to stay away from Sears, Meineke and places like that. They get paid on commission and can order parts you dont really need just to put more money in their pockets.

Good Luck
OEM Bob

superstreet4life · 02-22-08, 10:09 AM

yeah like ^^^^ he said in the city you will need to replace them more frequently also go down to where the car is being serviced an ask the tech to see the brake pads if the pad is as thick or thinner then the backing plate then it will need to be replaced. if the brake pad is thicker then the backing plate then it doesnt need to be replaced. 750 does sound high midas or any chain place like that will do a cheap quick job that usually results in a revisit because of a maladjusted something. go to a local mechanic they will give you an honest job and will usually check over the car because they want you to come back. midas can live without your business, a local mechanic cant.

hiptsx · 02-22-08, 04:53 PM

[quote=OEM Bob;1320051]

The other element is are you the only driver?

Yes, I am the only driver

It really all depends on where you live and the type of driving you do.

I live in Chicago, and yes the Winters are harsh here (esp this year), and so there is quite a bit of wear and tear. But I by no means drive "hard" on the car.

When you brake do you see diminished brake performance? Like does it take longer to come to a stop and is your pedal is almost down to the floor?

Yes, it does seem that break performance has dimished.
Check the brake fluid resevoir to see if you are low. You may have some air in the lines and have to add FRESH brake fluid. Its easy but you need two people. It is not at all unusual on having to add.

Last month, I had the 30k service done at the dealer. At that time, they said the break fluid level is fine. Sorry for the dumb question, but how can I check it again?
Finally, have you looked at the pads. All modern cars come with audible wear indicators on the pads that will make noise except when you brake. Thats the time to chage.

Would you please mind explaining further? How would I check the pads to know if they are in desperate need for change or not? I dont want to mess up my rotors.

When you hear grinding noise when you brake its metal against metal and you may have messed up your rotors.

No, there is no grinding noise yet. Hence why I'm wondering if i should get them changed prior to the 35k interval because I dont want to take the chance of messing up my rotors. What do you think?

Now $750.00 for a 4 wheel brake job is quite high even for a dealer. All we are talking about is turning the rotors, changing pads, and adding fluid. I could see $400.00 as an avg. figuring on $100 per wheel.

Yes, I had gone to Midas, and they quoted me around $400 + tax for all 4 wheels. Those would be ceramic pads.

Now typically on a FWD car 60% of the braking is done with the front brakes 40% with the rear. My advice is to look for a reputable shop that perhaps specializes in brakes. I like to stay away from Sears, Meineke and places like that. They get paid on commission and can order parts you dont really need just to put more money in their pockets.

Very good point, I will have to look around for a few places.

Thank you sir!

hiptsx · 02-22-08, 04:59 PM

redlight_005 said:

I'm surprised that your rear brakes are worn more than your front. The front brakes always wear faster, that's where most of your stopping power comes from.

Yes, I too was surprised when I was told my rear brakes are more worn than the front ones. The dealer couldnt explain why that was the case besides the vague "It's hard to say why that is the case sir"

Are they spongey? How's your brake fluid level?

Sorry, but what do you mean by "spongey"? The dealer told me the brake fluid level was fine. How can I check it myself?

You may want to flush your brake system and refill with new fluid.

Sorry, but how would I do that? Is it something I could do myself or would have to get it done by a mechanic?

Any repair shop should be able to do a decent brake job. Make sure you know what kind of pads you are getting though. I prefer ceramic over the semi-metallics.

Yes, I would be getting the ceramic type.

OEM Bob · 02-22-08, 08:39 PM

How to check for brake fluid -

On the firewall of the TSX and 99.99% of most new cars there is a clear round cylinder that typically has a black cap on it. It will have Minimum thru Maximum level indicators on it. Make sure the car is on LEVEL ground. Clean the top off of any dirt!

Just look at it resevoir and see where the level is. If it is low add to the Maximum level with FRESH (NEW) brake fluid. Once it is filled THROW OUT the fresh can/bottle of brake fluid.

Its like virginity once the seal is popped its no good anymore as it absorbs moisture and will rust out your brake lines if you store for long periods of time.

On old cars it is still mounted on the firewall but you will see typically a big round brass colored round disk (vacuum boost) and another brass looking thing sticking out with some metal lines going to it. There is also a pressure wire clip holding that assembly together. Wipe or brush off any dirt around the assembly as you dont want dirt getting into the brake fluid.

Carefully moved the clip to one side, and the top of the assembly should come right off. You will notice two rubber boots/bowls - thats separates the front/rear chambers. Visually check the level and add if needed. Be careful placing the cap back on and you're done.

Good luck
OEM Bob

n0s_speed · 02-23-08, 02:56 AM

1. 32k miles sounds good.
2. it depends on how hard you brake and how much you drive on the freeways/highways.
3. $750 is way too much. go to a local shop to get it done. sometimes they offer the original brake pads.

redlight_005 · 02-25-08, 06:56 PM

I just did the rotors on my TSX this weekend and saw that my brakes are actually just over half worn. I still can get plenty of miles out of my brakes. I am very light on mine on though. As far as your rear brakes being more worn, did they check the tension of your parking brake cables?

hiptsx · 02-27-08, 04:29 PM

Hello Everyone.....

Thank you once again for all the good advice.

I took the advice that most of you had with buying the OEM brakes myself and getting a decent mechanic to install them.

I was able to locate a reputable mechanic through "install locations" from tirerack.com - whom I met in person over the weekend. He was very helpful.

He did a inspection, and took the calipers and measured them and told me that I could probably go another 5000 miles on them still. So he told me not to spend the money right now (wow), and to come back in a few weeks for another inspection and then we shall take it from there. He also told me that my rotors are fine, and probably wont need to be turned.

Look's like the OEM brakes would cost aobut $120 for both front and back. He said he would charge me about $130 total for the install, so I am looking at about a $250 total out of pocket cost as opposed to the $400 midas, meineki etc were quoting me. This way I know what exactly is being installed (OEM) and by a reputable mechanic.

So when they do need to be replaced, I'm definitely going to him as opposed to the dealer/midas/meiniki etc.

Thanks again for everyone's advice.

02-21-08, 04:10 PM	#1 (permalink)
hiptsx Registered User Join Date: May 2005 Age: 27 Posts: 17 Car 1: 2005 Acura TSX	05 TSX 32k miles needs break job??? Hello All, I have a 05 TSX with about 32000 miles on it. When I went to get the 30k service done at the dealer, I was told my break pads are on the low and will probably need to be replaced next time I'm due for service - around 35000 miles. I was told that the rear brakes are more used up than the front ones. I also find when breaking the brake pedal does go in deep. I commute via train to work, so most of my car trips are about 5-10 miles a day with mixed city/highway driving. I have had this car for about 3 years now, and I by no means drive rough on it or "slam" on the brakes everytime I need to stop. I am considering changing all 4 break pads sometime in the next few weeks prior to the 35k service. Few Questions: 1) 32000miles sound quite low for a 1st time break job. Anyone else experience such wear? 2) What is the avg miles for which a break job is needed for an average driver? 3) The dealer quoted me around $750 for a complete break job. I certainly dont fancy fishing out that much. Anyone have any suggestions to where as I could do for a quality break job other than the dealer? May be a Midas, CarX, Meineke? As always any suggestions/reccomendations etc are appreciated. Thanks in advance!

02-21-08, 08:00 PM	#3 (permalink)
redlight_005 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: New York Posts: 607 Your Mood: Car 1: 04 CG 6sp TSX No nav Car 2: 02 Camaro SS Car 3: 05 GSXR 600	I'm surprised that your rear brakes are worn more than your front. The front brakes always wear faster, that's where most of your stopping power comes from. I have 46,000 miles on my TSX and do not need brakes yet. Soon, yes, but not quite yet. The pedal will travel slightly farther to make up for the pad thickness, you might notice it if your brakes are worn as much as you say they are, but it shouldnt be a huge difference in travel. Are they spongey? How's your brake fluid level? You may want to flush your brake system and refill with new fluid. Any repair shop should be able to do a decent brake job. Make sure you know what kind of pads you are getting though. I prefer ceramic over the semi-metallics. __________________ 2004 Carbon Gray Pearl TSX 6sp Man. Body kit Spoiler Fog lights Trunk tray All weather floor mats Blue LED lighting Cargo net Debadged 20% tint Comptech titanium strut tower bar Comptech rear sway bar

02-21-08, 11:46 PM	#4 (permalink)
OEM Bob Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Matamoras, Pa. Age: 54 Posts: 400 Your Mood: Car 1: '06 Acura MDX/Navi Car 2: '06 Honda Pilot/Navi	For city driving that may be right AT 32K that sounds about right for city driving.The other element is are you the only driver? I have nearly 45K on my 2006 Honda Pilot and I'll get another 5-10K off of them as I live in the country. It really all depends on where you live and the type of driving you do. When you brake do you see diminished brake performance? Like does it take longer to come to a stop and is your pedal is almost down to the floor? Check the brake fluid resevoir to see if you are low. You may have some air in the lines and have to add FRESH brake fluid. Its easy but you need two people. It is not at all unusual on having to add. Finally, have you looked at the pads. All modern cars come with audible wear indicators on the pads that will make noise except when you brake. Thats the time to chage. When you hear grinding noise when you brake its metal against metal and you may have messed up your rotors. Now $750.00 for a 4 wheel brake job is quite high even for a dealer. All we are talking about is turning the rotors, changing pads, and adding fluid. I could see $400.00 as an avg. figuring on $100 per wheel. Now typically on a FWD car 60% of the braking is done with the front brakes 40% with the rear. My advice is to look for a reputable shop that perhaps specializes in brakes. I like to stay away from Sears, Meineke and places like that. They get paid on commission and can order parts you dont really need just to put more money in their pockets. Good Luck OEM Bob __________________ Both Vehicles have: OEM GPS Navigation OEM Mud Flaps OEM Side Window Visors OEM Fogs OEM Cargo Net OEM All Season Rubber Floor Mats OEM Trunk Liner OEM Black Side Steps OEM Hood Deflector OEM Rear Color Camera US Gov't ECM/ECCM Pods US Gov't 2000 RPM/.50CAL mobile Phalanx System Aftermarket N.I.J. Level 5 Automotive Armor Aftermarket N.I.J. Level 4 Ballistics Glass And the bauble head dog on the dash whose head moves when you stop the truck. Just checking to see if you're awake! Fomer Owner of: 93 Legend LS, 93 Integra, 96 Integra, 97 3.2TL, 2000 RL w/Navi, 2003 Odyssey EXL w/Navi , 2004 TSX w/Navi

02-22-08, 10:09 AM	#5 (permalink)
superstreet4life JDM 4 Life Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Mass Age: 17 Posts: 15 Your Mood: Car 1: 1993 Legend L (KA7) Car 2: '93 Legend LS(parting out	yeah like ^^^^ he said in the city you will need to replace them more frequently also go down to where the car is being serviced an ask the tech to see the brake pads if the pad is as thick or thinner then the backing plate then it will need to be replaced. if the brake pad is thicker then the backing plate then it doesnt need to be replaced. 750 does sound high midas or any chain place like that will do a cheap quick job that usually results in a revisit because of a maladjusted something. go to a local mechanic they will give you an honest job and will usually check over the car because they want you to come back. midas can live without your business, a local mechanic cant. __________________ 1993 Legend L Cashmere Silver Ivory CLoth Interior 5 Speed PARTING OUT 1993 LEGEND LS GENEVA GREEN TYPE F INTERIOR LEATHER IF YOU WOULD LIKE ANY PARTS PLEASE EMAIL ME OR PM ME. CARZANIAC@AOL.COM

02-22-08, 08:39 PM	#8 (permalink)
OEM Bob Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Matamoras, Pa. Age: 54 Posts: 400 Your Mood: Car 1: '06 Acura MDX/Navi Car 2: '06 Honda Pilot/Navi	How to check for brake fluid - On the firewall of the TSX and 99.99% of most new cars there is a clear round cylinder that typically has a black cap on it. It will have Minimum thru Maximum level indicators on it. Make sure the car is on LEVEL ground. Clean the top off of any dirt! Just look at it resevoir and see where the level is. If it is low add to the Maximum level with FRESH (NEW) brake fluid. Once it is filled THROW OUT the fresh can/bottle of brake fluid. Its like virginity once the seal is popped its no good anymore as it absorbs moisture and will rust out your brake lines if you store for long periods of time. On old cars it is still mounted on the firewall but you will see typically a big round brass colored round disk (vacuum boost) and another brass looking thing sticking out with some metal lines going to it. There is also a pressure wire clip holding that assembly together. Wipe or brush off any dirt around the assembly as you dont want dirt getting into the brake fluid. Carefully moved the clip to one side, and the top of the assembly should come right off. You will notice two rubber boots/bowls - thats separates the front/rear chambers. Visually check the level and add if needed. Be careful placing the cap back on and you're done. Good luck OEM Bob __________________ Both Vehicles have: OEM GPS Navigation OEM Mud Flaps OEM Side Window Visors OEM Fogs OEM Cargo Net OEM All Season Rubber Floor Mats OEM Trunk Liner OEM Black Side Steps OEM Hood Deflector OEM Rear Color Camera US Gov't ECM/ECCM Pods US Gov't 2000 RPM/.50CAL mobile Phalanx System Aftermarket N.I.J. Level 5 Automotive Armor Aftermarket N.I.J. Level 4 Ballistics Glass And the bauble head dog on the dash whose head moves when you stop the truck. Just checking to see if you're awake! Fomer Owner of: 93 Legend LS, 93 Integra, 96 Integra, 97 3.2TL, 2000 RL w/Navi, 2003 Odyssey EXL w/Navi , 2004 TSX w/Navi

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02-21-08, 07:14 PM	#2 (permalink)
Artillery129 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 36 Car 1: 1995 Acura Legend	depends how hard you break all the time, and about the break pedal going in deep, it would change pedal travel only slightly if your breaks are worn, i believe the pedal travel is adjustable as well, I dont have a TSX so dont quote me on that one... good luck bump so people can help you out.

02-22-08, 04:53 PM	#6 (permalink)
hiptsx Registered User Join Date: May 2005 Age: 27 Posts: 17 Car 1: 2005 Acura TSX	[quote=OEM Bob;1320051] The other element is are you the only driver? Yes, I am the only driver It really all depends on where you live and the type of driving you do. I live in Chicago, and yes the Winters are harsh here (esp this year), and so there is quite a bit of wear and tear. But I by no means drive "hard" on the car. When you brake do you see diminished brake performance? Like does it take longer to come to a stop and is your pedal is almost down to the floor? Yes, it does seem that break performance has dimished. Check the brake fluid resevoir to see if you are low. You may have some air in the lines and have to add FRESH brake fluid. Its easy but you need two people. It is not at all unusual on having to add. Last month, I had the 30k service done at the dealer. At that time, they said the break fluid level is fine. Sorry for the dumb question, but how can I check it again? Finally, have you looked at the pads. All modern cars come with audible wear indicators on the pads that will make noise except when you brake. Thats the time to chage. Would you please mind explaining further? How would I check the pads to know if they are in desperate need for change or not? I dont want to mess up my rotors. When you hear grinding noise when you brake its metal against metal and you may have messed up your rotors. No, there is no grinding noise yet. Hence why I'm wondering if i should get them changed prior to the 35k interval because I dont want to take the chance of messing up my rotors. What do you think? Now $750.00 for a 4 wheel brake job is quite high even for a dealer. All we are talking about is turning the rotors, changing pads, and adding fluid. I could see $400.00 as an avg. figuring on $100 per wheel. Yes, I had gone to Midas, and they quoted me around $400 + tax for all 4 wheels. Those would be ceramic pads. Now typically on a FWD car 60% of the braking is done with the front brakes 40% with the rear. My advice is to look for a reputable shop that perhaps specializes in brakes. I like to stay away from Sears, Meineke and places like that. They get paid on commission and can order parts you dont really need just to put more money in their pockets. Very good point, I will have to look around for a few places. Thank you sir!

02-22-08, 04:59 PM	#7 (permalink)
hiptsx Registered User Join Date: May 2005 Age: 27 Posts: 17 Car 1: 2005 Acura TSX	redlight_005 said: I'm surprised that your rear brakes are worn more than your front. The front brakes always wear faster, that's where most of your stopping power comes from. Yes, I too was surprised when I was told my rear brakes are more worn than the front ones. The dealer couldnt explain why that was the case besides the vague "It's hard to say why that is the case sir" Are they spongey? How's your brake fluid level? Sorry, but what do you mean by "spongey"? The dealer told me the brake fluid level was fine. How can I check it myself? You may want to flush your brake system and refill with new fluid. Sorry, but how would I do that? Is it something I could do myself or would have to get it done by a mechanic? Any repair shop should be able to do a decent brake job. Make sure you know what kind of pads you are getting though. I prefer ceramic over the semi-metallics. Yes, I would be getting the ceramic type.

02-23-08, 02:56 AM	#9 (permalink)
n0s_speed -=M2V4P=- Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: LA Age: 25 Posts: 14,398 Your Mood: Car 1: 05 Acura RSX-S Car 2: 06 Yamaha R6- traded in Car 3: 07 Honda CBR1000RR	1. 32k miles sounds good. 2. it depends on how hard you brake and how much you drive on the freeways/highways. 3. $750 is way too much. go to a local shop to get it done. sometimes they offer the original brake pads. __________________ RSX-S 2005 Honda CBR1000RR 2007 RED/BLACK Current Upgrade - Proton Front Signal Lights - Competition Works Fender Eliminator - ProGrip Tank Protector - Shogun Frame Slider - StompGrip Tank Pad - Jardine D/O S/O - Puig Darksmoke Windscreen - SpeedoHealer Resident eGhey Sex Troll Extraordinaire!!!

02-25-08, 06:56 PM	#10 (permalink)
redlight_005 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: New York Posts: 607 Your Mood: Car 1: 04 CG 6sp TSX No nav Car 2: 02 Camaro SS Car 3: 05 GSXR 600	I just did the rotors on my TSX this weekend and saw that my brakes are actually just over half worn. I still can get plenty of miles out of my brakes. I am very light on mine on though. As far as your rear brakes being more worn, did they check the tension of your parking brake cables? __________________ 2004 Carbon Gray Pearl TSX 6sp Man. Body kit Spoiler Fog lights Trunk tray All weather floor mats Blue LED lighting Cargo net Debadged 20% tint Comptech titanium strut tower bar Comptech rear sway bar

02-27-08, 04:29 PM	#11 (permalink)
hiptsx Registered User Join Date: May 2005 Age: 27 Posts: 17 Car 1: 2005 Acura TSX	Hello Everyone..... Thank you once again for all the good advice. I took the advice that most of you had with buying the OEM brakes myself and getting a decent mechanic to install them. I was able to locate a reputable mechanic through "install locations" from tirerack.com - whom I met in person over the weekend. He was very helpful. He did a inspection, and took the calipers and measured them and told me that I could probably go another 5000 miles on them still. So he told me not to spend the money right now (wow), and to come back in a few weeks for another inspection and then we shall take it from there. He also told me that my rotors are fine, and probably wont need to be turned. Look's like the OEM brakes would cost aobut $120 for both front and back. He said he would charge me about $130 total for the install, so I am looking at about a $250 total out of pocket cost as opposed to the $400 midas, meineki etc were quoting me. This way I know what exactly is being installed (OEM) and by a reputable mechanic. So when they do need to be replaced, I'm definitely going to him as opposed to the dealer/midas/meiniki etc. Thanks again for everyone's advice.

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