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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 8
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Acura '02 TL Type S AC/Heater Problems
The blower suddenly stopped working. I've tried both auto and manual mode, AC and heat and can't get the blower to turn on. I've checked all the relevant fuses (under the hood and cabin fuse boxes and they look fine.
Any suggestions on other things I can check to debug the problem? Thanks |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 3
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If your blower blows at one low speed and max your resistors could be to blame. and also check if you have the blower relay and transformer mixed up?
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#3 (permalink) |
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Tastes minty
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Western MA
Age: 39
Posts: 7,011
Your Mood:
Car 1: 02 Acura TL-S w/navi Car 2: 05 Acura MDX w/navi Car 3: 01 Dodge Dakota SLT 4WD |
Usually the resistor in the passenger side footwell. Once it goes blower will usually only go at max speed.
__________________
I think soccer is disgusting. Matt 2002 ABP TL-S w/navi 2005 BSM MDX w/navi |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 11
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Hi Sparatan,
On the passenger side, underneath the glovebox, if you get on your hands and knees and stick your head underneath you should she a white plug with 2 wires sticking out of it. You do not need to adjust or remove anything to get access to this plug. Do you see it? Good. Unplug it and look to see if one or both terminals are corroded. No? Try wiggling the plug around with the Fan Speed on 5. Does the Fan turn on? Quote:
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 11
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Glad this helped. As far as preventative maintaenence, (replacing the female and male ends) I wouldn't really suggest doing anything. Replacing the socket is more trouble than it's worth, but if your local junkyard has one of these cars I would go ahead and clip you a new plug with as much wire on it as possible. I'm not a mechanic (though, if I was, this could easily be a $1000 repair) but if you look, it's an inherently flawed design. The plug makes a sharp turn to fit in the female end, stretching the attached wires. So, if you can get that replacement plug, clean out the socket real good, and install the new plug with some extra slack. I would be surprised if you had any other problems. Of course, if you want, replace the entire unit, but I strongly feel that would be a waste of time and money.
Scott |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 8
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Thanks again. Since the wire got hot every time the blower motor turned on I decided to replace the 2-wire connector. For anyone interested the Honda part # is 04321-S0K-A00 and it costs ~$12 at the dealer.
One of the wires (blue/red) goes to a connector at the very front of the space under the glove box. Instead of splicing this wire, if you unplug the front connector you can remove the old lead/wire and plug in the lead/wire from new connector. The second wire (yellow/black) goes way up into the space behind the glove box. I started taking apart the dash to see where it ended, but then decided it would be much simpler to just splice the wire. The blower works fine now and the wire to the connector doesn't heat up anymore. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 11
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Glad to hear everything worked out for you!
I am confused though, with your second paragraph. Can you clarify what you mean for me (and anyone else with this problem..which is pretty much everybody since the part is likely going to fail at some point)............... Scott |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 8
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The connector has two wires coming out of it that end in spade leads. Wire #1 is blue with red stripes. Wire #2 is yellow with black stripes.
Wire #1 travels towards the front of the car and plugs into a connector with 5-wires at the very front of the space under the glove box. Instead of splicing the wires from the new and old 2-wire connector, I unplugged the 5-wire connector, took the old wire out and plugged in Wire#1 from the replacement connector. I was going to do the same thing with Wire#2, but it goes up behind the glove box and the only way to get access to where it ends was to take apart the passenger side dash. I thought that was too much work so for wire #2 I spliced the wires from the old and new connector together. Hope that clarifies things. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 11
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Yes, I see what you mean now. Not sure if it was overboard, but I guess you don't want to run into the problem again. While I have your attention, I see that you recently joined the forum - Have you had any luck as far as getting responses to posts? It seems like a lot of the people on here are more cosmetic concerned, rather than, mechanically knowledgable. I have 2 posts with no replies - 1 on headlights and another on TCS. Would you happen to know how the D2C low beam headlights look in a 99 TL? I know that the ones that it came with are D2R and have some sort of ceramic paint on the bulb, but the D2C bulbs are much cheaper on ebay ($40 instead of $140) so I wanted to find out if the D2C work or if the light is all messed up. Alternatively, do you know of any other way to replace a D2R bulb for cheap? Everything I look up seems to be more than $100..I just want a normal headlight bulb nothing fancy. As far as TCS, my light has been on for a while now - Would you happen to know the first steps in diagnosing it?
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 8
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This was my 1st post and it worked well. I only have one other post and have not gotten a response, but I only posted it yesterday and that one is seeking opinions vs. trying to fix something.
Unfortunately I don't have any experience with your headlight and TCS issues. Sorry I can't help you out. |
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