Do I need a new distributor? Whats wrong with my GSR??? - Acura Forum : Acura Forums

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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-22-10, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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Do I need a new distributor? Whats wrong with my GSR???

OK, ive gotten so many people telling me different things that I need some serious advice from experienced Integra veterans! Ive replaced a few parts that people recommended but it did NOTHING.

Heres exactely what my GSR does: After driving it long enough for it to warm to normal operating temperature, I go to turn it off. If I go to start it anywhere between 15 and 25 minutes later, it will start then immediately bog down and die. It will eventually start, but not until after the 3rd or 4th attempt and with me holding the gas down to keep it from stalling. Then it idles fine and I can drive it.

Heres the weird thing!: If I go to try to start it say just 5 minutes after the car is warmed up it will start right up! CONFUSED! --itll start up within fine within a few minutes but if i wait like 15-25 itll give me trouble??? I dont understand why but its been doing this the last 2 months. I should also mention, it always starts up fine when the motor is cold.

Now, heres what ive done in an attempt to fix the problem: Changed my fuel filter, replaced spark plugs and wires, replaced coolant temp sensor, cleaned IACV (cuz I also have slightly fluctuating idle when car is warm--slowly fluctuates between 200-900 RPM when idle). None of that fixed the problem! And of course I used all OEM parts.

Other things people have said it could be: Distributor is bad, Ignition control module is bad, fuel injectors are clogged or bad, the IACV needs to be completely replaced, etc.

So what is it??? Im sure someone here has dealt with these types of symptoms before?? Im really frusterated with my teg and I could use some EXPERIENCED advice. Thanks guys! (and girls)
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post #2 of 15 Old 03-22-10, 08:51 PM
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How's the dist. cap and rotor?

-Dean
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post #3 of 15 Old 03-22-10, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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I havent taken the cap off yet because I'm not sure how. What all do i need to do before i remove it? Take off wire from neg battery terminal? Remove sprk plug wires that are in the cap, or can I leave them in?? Is there anything special I look for when taking it off? Also, when I screw the cap back on, will I mess up the timing?

noob alert! lol I have no experience with messin with distributors
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post #4 of 15 Old 03-22-10, 09:37 PM
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You'll need either a phillips head screw driver or a 7 or 8 mm socket (I forgot, I think it's 7mm). The socket is the better choice to prevent stripping. You won't need to pull the plug wires off or anything. Just 3 screws/bolts, a little jiggle and it'll come off. Inspect the contact points on the cap and rotor. Check for signs of cracking, burning or carbon. If you spot this on either cap or rotor, it's best to change it out with a fresh cap and rotor. If you don't, spray some WD40 inside the cap, wipe it off, and reinstall and you'll know there's other issues with your vehicle.

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post #5 of 15 Old 03-22-10, 09:38 PM
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Also just for FYI, I sell YEC cap and rotors (they used to be OE Manufacture for Honda, and I still like to use their caps on rotors on vehicle servicing).

-Dean
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post #6 of 15 Old 03-22-10, 11:39 PM
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Does your vehicle have a mod intake?

Now, i havent had time to actually sit down and think about it, but i recently bought an integra, with an AEM cold air intake on it. when i first start the car, if i dont press the pedal in, itll start up and instantly shut down. I was told by the owner that he was told that the cold air intake causes that. I dont know why or how, but maybe thats it? but mine shut right off, not bogged and spit and sputtered for a second.

the fact that its spitting and sputtering sounds like a fuel or spark problem.

Because you dont know how a dist cap comes off, I assume you have limited automobile knowledge? Do you know how to remove your injectors? If so, or if you have a friend with the know-how, i would remove and clean your injectors.

But, before that, check your timing. its non-intrusive (as in you dont need to take the car apart to check it) and make sure its all set right. If its fine, drive the car for a while, warm it up, and check again. if its STILL alright, shut it down, have a friend ready with the timing light and check it while it spits and sputters. though i doubt its a timing issue, its an easy check...

To summarize, I believe its a fuel problem.

Hope this helps.
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post #7 of 15 Old 03-22-10, 11:42 PM Thread Starter
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So you're saying that this definately sounds like a distributor issue? Why just the cap and rotor? How would I know if the entire distributor needs to be replaced?

And do you not think this could be the ignition control module going out?
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post #8 of 15 Old 03-22-10, 11:50 PM
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I dont believe its a distributor, no. The cap and rotor are more tuneup items than anything, they corrode up from the spark jumping the gaps, and can slowly bring your sparking power down, which would be affecting your car at all times, not just this specific cool down period.

I believe its fuel just because the way it sounds.

The only reason I can think of that would make this a distributor problem is that the crank sensor is in the assembly, and maybe once it warms up and expands slightly, then cools down, its got JUST the right amount of clearance to act stupid.

When its in the bad-start-condition, what does your Tach say?
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post #9 of 15 Old 03-23-10, 12:55 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justaluckyshot View Post
I dont believe its a distributor, no. The cap and rotor are more tuneup items than anything, they corrode up from the spark jumping the gaps, and can slowly bring your sparking power down, which would be affecting your car at all times, not just this specific cool down period.

I believe its fuel just because the way it sounds.

The only reason I can think of that would make this a distributor problem is that the crank sensor is in the assembly, and maybe once it warms up and expands slightly, then cools down, its got JUST the right amount of clearance to act stupid.

When its in the bad-start-condition, what does your Tach say?

oh, well when its in the bad start condition the needle does a little bouncing like u know its gonna die (quickly bogs down) then instantly falls to zero and the car dies. So you suspect fuel injectors... are those difficult to take out? Im not sure where they are even located.

I did use a bottle of techron fuel injector cleaner but it of course didnt solve my issue. See i asked some dude who works at a shop if he believed it would be the injectors but he said probably not because if it were the injectors the car would ALWAYS be in that funny start condition.

I think my problem is really unique as he told me that he's never heard of the type of symptoms my car is having. But I also talked to another mechanic and he said that it COULD be a clogged injector but was also a little dumb founded and wanted me to bring it into his shop.

If i take it to a place to have it looked at how would they be able to determine what it is?

Oh and by the way, I do have an AEM SRI on it, but I installed it after the car was already having this problem.
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post #10 of 15 Old 03-23-10, 09:52 AM
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Just out of curiosity:

1. How many miles are on your teg?
2. When was the last actual "service" done to it (like the last time it was in the shop and what for)?

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post #11 of 15 Old 03-23-10, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xLAD23DERx View Post
Just out of curiosity:

1. How many miles are on your teg?
2. When was the last actual "service" done to it (like the last time it was in the shop and what for)?
theres about 118,000 miles on teggy

the last service done at a shop was my timing belt and water pump which was about 7 months ago.

im suppose to be taking a 3 hour trip with her in a few weeks but with her acting the way she is Im worried shes gonna leave me stranded out in the middle of nowhere!
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post #12 of 15 Old 03-23-10, 11:42 AM
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Judging by the sounds of the vehicle, i dont believe its going to leave you on the side of the road. I thought it was the fuel because of the symptoms, maybe not the fuel injectors themselves. Whats the mileage on your fuel filter?
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post #13 of 15 Old 03-23-10, 11:53 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justaluckyshot View Post
Judging by the sounds of the vehicle, i dont believe its going to leave you on the side of the road. I thought it was the fuel because of the symptoms, maybe not the fuel injectors themselves. Whats the mileage on your fuel filter?
I just put a new fuel filter on it like a 2 weeks ago.

I know its not the fuel pump either as those rarely ever go bad.

Whats the chances that this could be caused by a vacuum leak? Unlikely?

Should I change out all my vacuum lines?

Last edited by SystemF; 03-23-10 at 11:59 AM.
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post #14 of 15 Old 03-23-10, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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I took off the cap today and the connection points are a little corroded and had a little carbon build up on them. So i wiped them off with a paper towel. Also there was a little moisture inside the cap but i assume this is due to condensation? (its been a little cold and rainy here lately).

I was thinking about replacing the cap cuz auto zone sells them for 17. However Im doubting my problem is simply being caused by a dist. cap and rotor..

Im worried that if I do buy a new cap and rotor then it doesnt fix it and later I find out that I need a new dist Ill have to get a whole new one which will have a new cap and rotor on it anyways. and I cant afford to waste any money!

What should i do?
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post #15 of 15 Old 03-24-10, 12:08 AM
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moisture shouldnt be in the cap in most cases.

I didnt think distributors came with caps.

I dont believe this is a cap and rotor problem.
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