Idle Surging on my 87 Integra RS

[Rays-RS]

My 87 Integra RS 4 doors with hatchback is experiencing the problem of my idle is surging from high to low and back to high over and over again, between 800 to 1500 rpm and continues like this during the rest of warming the car up during the first start of the each day. Once it is warmed up [which takes much longer than normal since this problem started] the idle gets as low as 600 to 700 rpm. but rises to 900 to 1000 rpm when I place the car in Neutral OR Park. When driving at any moderate speed, then place the car in Neutral to coast and DO NOT have any pressure on the gas pedal at all, the idle drops to the 600 to 700 rpm and begins to surge [as explained above]. Just had the idle air control valve replaced but that did not fix, no vacuum leaks or problems with ANY of the Fuel Injector(s). Does any one know what can be wrong? I am at my end as I do not really want to spend more money, like for the IACV, to have the problem still exsist.

Thank You Much




600 to 700 rpm

[jpeso23]

shoot, have to get back to ya, but i know alotta tegs that do this, or did this...have to find out why....iacv i would think...obvious..but not a def

[92integ]

sounds like your TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)

DO NOT BUY A TPS FROM ACURA DEALER!! U WILL BE PAYING ANYWHERE FROM $400-$800!!!

u can buy them online for like $30-$70 and also on honda/acuras the TPS is interchangeable between MOST hondas and acuras, i took a TPS of a 98 civic and it worked on my 92 teg.

and if u dont know where the TPS is it is on your throttle body

also 1 more thing...on some TPS the screws to get them off are a pain in the @$$ to get off, i took off my throttle body and took a grinder and grinded a straight line across the screw and used a flat head screwdriver to take out the screws

[C25A1guy]

Did you have your cooling system worked on prior to having this issue? It maybe a air bubble where your idle sensor is.

[rewsintegra]

i am not sure about first gen tegs but the newer ones have a cold idle controller. but this problem sounds like vacuum leak to me. check all your lines again.

[Rays-RS]

The to you that took the time to answer me. I have replaced the following:
1- Throttle Body
2- Distributor
3- Idle Air Control Valve (iacv)
4- Had vacuum leaks checked again, NONE
5- Oxygen Sensor
6- Had ALL Fuel Injectors checked - ALL Good

Hey C21A1Guy ( or anyone else), How would one get the air bubble(s) out as you stated?

Thx AGAIN All,
Rays-RS

[C25A1guy]

If you've ever had the cooling system worked on or opened up, that's one way. The other way would be from having your cooling system boil over. Either way, there's most likely an air bubble in the system that would need to be bled out.

There's a bleed screw on the return neck of the engine I believe. Basically its a 10mm with a nipple. you can crack that open and start running water through your rad. It is somewhat time consuming. The tool I like to use when bleeding cooling systems is the discontinued Mac Tools cooling system filler kit.

[chaaalieboy]

Originally Posted by 92integ

also 1 more thing...on some TPS the screws to get them off are a pain in the @$$ to get off, i took off my throttle body and took a grinder and grinded a straight line across the screw and used a flat head screwdriver to take out the screws

I hear you on that one. It took me an hour and 3 different vice-grips to get mine off.

[Rays-RS]

So is what you are saying is that:
1- I need to start the car and loosen that air bleed valve while running water through the radiator? What will I see [ or not see ] to let me know that there is no more air bubbles in the system? Also, why did /does it take a lonnggg time to complete this?
2- You mentioned using a tool, what exactly is this and do I NEED to have one to do this job? And is one available at the Auto Parts store(s)? $$$$ ?

I did replace the IACV as mentioned in an earlier post, did something need to be bled when that was replaced?

Again, C25A1guy, rewsintegra, 92integ & any rest, THANK YOU for your time spent on commenting on my problem and trying to help me rid of this "Pain In The Azz" I hope this can get resolved sooner than later !!

Rays-RS [ with problems ]

[Rays-RS]

FIXED !!!! What this was, was a frickin air bubble(s) in the system that needed to be bleed out. Good ridden air - Sometimes the things that are free [ AIR ] do much harm !! Thx to those who took the time to respond to my auto problem .

Rays-RS

[C25A1guy]

Awesome. Great to hear you got your issue resolved. But I wanted to answer your question anyways. when bleeding the system through the bleed screw, engine off and continuously pour water. If you're utlizing the cap-off method, rad cap off, engine on and fill with water as needed.

The tool that I use was made by Mac Tools (professional tools). Since I got it, it seems to have become discontinued.