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MDX back seat blower doesn't work.

53K views 14 replies 12 participants last post by  dungdn93 
#1 ·
On my 02 MDX, the AC/Heat blower in the console that serves the back seat does not work. I do have lights on the up/down selector buttons and I'm pretty sure that the fuses have been checked. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
#2 ·
The rear blower motor transistor fails on MDX's. Notorious for it. You can get to it if you remove the carpeted trim panel down the left side of the console. Part retails for $85 or so, should be about $70 if you buy it from a dealer that sells parts at wholesale. 79330-S2K-941 TRANSISTOR ASSY.
 
#3 ·
Bad Transistor

I got the transistor part about 2 weeks ago but just installed it last night. The instructions provided to me were so very helpful. It turned out to be about a 15 minute job. The screen was blocked with lint and probably did cause the failure. The transistor is located in the downstream air from the blower. Now works great. This is a great forum.
 
#9 ·
I got the transistor part about 2 weeks ago but just installed it last night. The instructions provided to me were so very helpful. It turned out to be about a 15 minute job. The screen was blocked with lint and probably did cause the failure. The transistor is located in the downstream air from the blower. Now works great. This is a great forum.
I've tried that, bought a new transistor and plugged in, turned on the rear heat and all but still no air blowing out? Is there something else wrong? no faulty fuse either. Please help. Thanks.
 
#4 ·
I couldve save YOU money

you didnt have to buy the entire piece, my rear ac went out as well but the light would light up on the front ac

all you have to do is open that plastic panel on the side driver panel twist out the main piece, undo 2 screws and carefully pry it open and take the bad resistor off and re-solder the new one back on...it took all of 10mins, the soldering took about 30secs., my has worked just fine over 6 months now

the resistor cost .49cents each + $4.00 shipping!

The place to buy the resistor is:

digikey.com, under their search do a search for:

part # P10920-ND (thermal cutoff 114C 2A/250VAC)

easiest thing ive ever done and you wouldve saved about $80 or so bucks!!!!!

I know its too late for you but for anyone else dont be suckered into buying the $80 piece from Acura, all that needs replacing is a little resistor!
 
#5 ·
you didnt have to buy the entire piece, my rear ac went out as well but the light would light up on the front ac

all you have to do is open that plastic panel on the side driver panel twist out the main piece, undo 2 screws and carefully pry it open and take the bad resistor off and re-solder the new one back on...it took all of 10mins, the soldering took about 30secs., my has worked just fine over 6 months now

the resistor cost .49cents each + $4.00 shipping!

The place to buy the resistor is:

digikey.com, under their search do a search for:

part # P10920-ND (thermal cutoff 114C 2A/250VAC)

easiest thing ive ever done and you wouldve saved about $80 or so bucks!!!!!

I know its too late for you but for anyone else dont be suckered into buying the $80 piece from Acura, all that needs replacing is a little resistor!
IT WORKED PART WAS ON BACK ORDER TIL DEC. PART#P10912-ND THERMAL CUTOFF 115C 1A/250AC LITTLE DIFFERNT WORKS FINE
 
#7 ·
Want to say Thank You here

MDX 2006, 100,000+ miles,
I have an exact problem and did exact what people said it here.
I could not find the screen, because it is totally blocked with very thick of dusts.

Just clean up the screen and changed part # P10920-ND (thermal cutoff 114C 2A/250VAC), got it from DigiKey $74 cents + $5.x USPS 2 days priority mail.

It is working and got a happy Friday, hey people -- Appreciate it. :beerchug:
 
#12 ·
fan runs on full

I replaced the thermal link using the one from digikey. The fan then ran on full, and I couldn't control the speed.

I did some more digging and the problem ended up being a short across the heat sink. I had to remove the new thermal resistor, add some heat shrink to the wires (like the old one, it had insulated wires except where the wires were soldered to the board), and re-install it.

Started it up and the fan control worked great!

Thanks for all the help on this!
 
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