Newbie FAQ

[Daddymac117]

*Written by me, and additions/information taken from members at www.Acura-Legend.com*
This thread is copied directly from A-L.com.
Original Thread Here

Heres an FAQ i made for all the newbies who dont feel like searching for everything.
I decided to post it here because this is where most of the questions get asked.
If there are any discrepancies, mods, feel free to edit anything or add anything you think would help the newbies out:

DO NOT POST YOUR QUESTIONS/PROBLEMS IN THIS THREAD

Newbie FAQ
~ 91-93 Manual download link ~ {Mirror Link} (user/pass - "legend")
94-95 Manual not available yet

1st Generation: 86-90 Sedans/Coupes
2nd Generation: 91-95 Sedans/Coupes (96 JDM Coupe)
3rd Generation: 96-04 Sedans only (Acura RL)
4th Generation: 05-?? Sedans only (Acura RL)


USDM: United States Domestic Market
JDM: Japanese Domestic Market
EDM: European Domestic Market

OEM: Original Equipment Manufacturer (basically used to refer to factory parts)
AEM: Aftermarket Equipment Manufacturer (literally). They make aftermarket stuff. Nothing specifically for the Legend though.

FWD Front Wheel Drive
RWD Rear Wheel Drive
AWD All Wheel Drive

Chassis Codes
KA3 - Refers to 87-90 Coupe
KA4 - Refers to 86-90 Sedan
KA7 – Refers to 91-95 Sedan
KA8 – Refers to 91-95 Coupe
KA9 - Refers to 96-04 RL
KB1 - Refers to 05-?? RL

Engine
(Engine block code – C32A)
USDM Type I – 200 HP @ 5,500rpm | 210 lb/ft TQ@ 5,000rpm
91-95 Sedans (L/LS/SE trims only)
91-92 Coupes
USDM Type II – 230 HP @ 6,200rpm | 206 lb/ft TQ @ 5,000rpm
(can be easily recognized by "TYPE II" badge on intake manifold)

94-95 Sedans (GS trim only)
93-95 Coupes
JDM (Japan Type I) – 215 HP @ 5,500rpm | 220lb/ft TQ @ 4,500rpm
(rated at these numbers because of Japan’s different emission systems.)
JDM (Japan Type II “Alpha Touring”) – 232 HP @ 6,300rpm | 213 lb/ft TQ @ 5,200rpm [See Thread]
(extremely RARE in US)

Misc. Engine Info


USDM Type I, Type II, and JDM fit into engine bay perfectly with no custom engine mounts.
NSX engine (C32B) will NOT fit into engine bay, as it is wider than USDM Type I/II.
NSX heads will NOT be a direct fit onto USDM Type I/II blocks. [See Thread]

USEFUL Spark Plug Info

Maintenance Info
Every 250 miles or weekly

Check engine oil
Check engine coolant level
Check windshield washer fluid
Check brake fluid level
Check tires and tire pressures

Every 3,000 miles or 3 months

Above listed items plus:

Check power steering fluid level
Check automatic and transmission/transaxle fluid level
Change engine oil and filter

Every 7,500 miles or 6 months

All items listed above and:

Inspect/replace wiper blades
Check/Service Battery
Check/Adjust (if necessary) engine drivebelts
Inspect/Replace (if necessary) all underhood hoses
Check cooling system
Rotate Tires
Check front disc brake pads

Every 15,000 miles or 12 months

All items listed above and:

Inspect the brake system
Check clutch pedal height and freeplay
Inspect the seatbelts
Replace the a/c air filter
Adjust valve clearances
Replace the air filter
Inspect the fuel system
Check m/t lubricant
Check differential lubricant level
Inspect suspension and steering components and driveaxle boots
Inspect exhaust system

Every 30,000 miles or 24 months

All above listed items plus:

Replace the spark plugs (conventional, non-platinum)
Check and replace, if necessary, the PCV Valve
Replace the fuel filter
Service the cooling system (drain, flush, fill)
Replace the brake fluid
Change automatic transmission/transaxle fluid
Change manual transmission/transaxle lubricant
Change differential lubricant
Check EGR system ( Exhaust Gas Recirculation)
Check and adjust engine idle speed
Check and adjust engine ignition timing

Replace ABS high pressure hose
Reset Maintenance Required Indicator

Every 60,000 miles or 24 months

All items listed above plus

Replace the spark plugs (PLATINUM TIPPED SPARK PLUGS)

Every 90,000 miles or 72 months

Replace timing belt
Replace water pump

Transmisssion
Automatic – Available on all 91-95 Sedans and Coupes
5 Speed Manual – Available on all 91-95 (Base, L, LS) Sedans and 91-92 Coupes (L, LS)
6 Speed Manual – Only available on 94-95 Sedans (GS trim) and 93-95 Coupes (L, LS)

Shifting with Automatic Transmission from G2 Owner's Manual

(D4) - For normal Driving Conditions

(D3) - This position is similar to D4, except only the first 3 gears are selected. Use D3 when towing a trailer in hilly terrain, or to provide engine braking when going down a steep high. D3 can also keep the transimission from cycling between 3rd and 4th gears in stop and go driving.

(2) - This position locks the transmission in second gear. It does not downshift to first gear when you come to a stop. Second gives you more power when climbing, and increased engine braking when going down steep hill. Use 2nd gear when starting out on a slippery surface or deep snow. It will reduce wheel spin.

(1) - This position locks the transmission in 1st gear.

Other notes:
- For faster acceleration in both D3 and D4, you can get the transimission to downshift by pushing the accelerator to the floor. The transimission will shift down one or two gears depending on your speed.

- When you move the shift lever to a lower gear, the transmission downshifts only if the engine's redline will not be exceeded in the lower gear.

- By upshifting and downshifting through 1, 2, D3, D4, you can operate this transmission much like a manual transmission without a clutch pedal.


Brakes (stock)
Type I – Dual-diagonal, power-assisted, 4 wheel disc brakes.
Front – 11.0” diameter
Rear – 11.0” diameter
ABS System – 4 wheel speed sensors and electronic/hydraulic control unit
Type II – Same as above, rotors 5mm thicker for better braking, dual piston front calipers.

Trim Levels
*In order from lowest to top of the line*
Base | L | SE | LS | GS

*Options vary for the different years, check the Legend Temple for an indepth explaination for every year*

Wheels
All Factory wheels are 6.5” wide, +65 offset
91-92 Sedan (L, LS) - 15", 20 spokes

93-95 Sedan (L, LS) - 15", 16 spokes

91-95 coupe (L), 91-92 coupe (LS), 95 sedan (SE) - 15", 7 spokes


93-94 coupe (LS), 94-95 Sedan (GS) - 16", 5 spokes

Premium upgrade wheels - 15", 5 spokes, availible in gold and silver finish (gold shown)


Offset
The offset of a wheel is the distance from its hub mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel. The offset can be one of three types.
Zero Offset
The hub mounting surface is even with the centerline of the wheel.
Positive
The hub mounting surface is toward the front or wheel side of the wheel. Positive offset wheels are generally found on front wheel drive cars and newer rear drive cars.
Negative
The hub mounting surface is toward the back or brake side of the wheels centerline. "Deep dish" wheels are typically a negative offset.

If the offset of the wheel is not correct for the car, the handling can be adversely affected. When the width of the wheel changes, the offset also changes numerically. If the offset were to stay the same while you added width, the additional width would be split evenly between the inside and outside.

Bolt Pattern

The bolt pattern for the Legend is 5 x 114.3

Acura TL, CL Wheel Info
TL/CL rims will NOT directly fit onto the Legend without boring the centers first.
They must be bored to 70.2mm in order to fit properly.

Misc Legend Info
Gas Tank holds approx. 18 gallons

USEFUL Legend Sites
Legend Temple
LegendTuner.com
2nd Gen FAQ By Leon Millette
Useful Topics and DIY
Acura-Legend.com SEARCH Function

Special Thanks to KennyG(Legend Temple), Bang&Olufsen DK, MikeD, Leon Millette, tnelson, smartjay28, AlexC, WhiteLegend, sleeprlegendcp, LegendGS, and Dethred for this info/help.

[Daddymac117]

Newbie FAQ Addition #1
(posts 2-11 were deleted to eliminate clutter between main post and this addition, but credit was given to anyone who gave suggestions in those posts)

BHG (Blown Headgasket)
This is one of the most common problems that occur in the 2nd Gen Legends...
Overheating 101
long story short, if you see white smoke coming from the exhaust when you idle or accelerate, its probably a BHG

To fix a BHG is costly as hell , is hard as hell to do yourself , and practically impossible to do without the right parts so many members here would just suggest that you replace it with a completely different engine (preferably a JDM because of low mileage ) or you could spend up to $1500 to take it somewhere to get it fixed, and probably have the gasket blow again on you in 50,000 miles

How do you prevent this from happening to your Legend you ask? Just make sure you do all the scheduled maintenence and take care of your cooling system, DON'T let your engine overheat!

VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor)
If your speedometer is going completely nuts (showing completely wrong readings or reading 0 MPH)
and your D4 indicator light in the dash cluster is on, chances are, you have a BAD VSS...

the new part will run you between $150-300 depending on where you go (buying new from Acura "stealership" will definately be around $300)

Clockspring (aka cable-reel assembly)
No, this isnt the spring that holds the lil door next to the clock in the console lol
This is what enables the buttons on the steering wheel to work while turned.
If your horns, cruise control, or volume buttons aren't working, its probably a BAD Clockspring...

this part will run you about $270 NEW
DONT buy this part used...most members here who have changed their clocksprings suggest that if yours breaks, don't cheap out and buy a used part because more than likely it will break AGAIN, and in the long run you'll just screw yourself over having to replace the part over and over again

RWD Acura Legend????
*sigh*....before it's asked again, YES it can be done...but it'll cost upwards of $15,000 to complete it...it's really not even worth it unless you just have money burning a hole in your pocket.
(For more information, just search for "RWD Legend"...there's countless threads with the explaination of what must be done and how much it will cost)

Stock Alarm System Problems
If your stock alarm system goes off repeatedly while the doors are unlocked, your door lock actuator has gone bad. To temporarily disable the alarm you can do it with a paperclip. Pop the hood and feel behind the latch for the wire. Disconnect it and stick a paperclip bent in a U into the female end that goes under the radiator. Tape it all up with electrical tape and you are done. Your alarm will now think your hood is always open and never arm.

Audio

2nd Gen Stereo FAQ

Stereo Systems
1991-1993 Base ---- Honda
1991-1995 L ------- Standard Bose
1991-1992 LS ------ Bose
1993-1995 LS ------ Bose Premium
1994-1995 GS ------ Bose Premium
1995 SE ------------ Bose Premium

CD Changer
The Alpine CHA-S634 is an aftermarket 6 disc CD/MP3 changer that WILL fit into the trunk sleeve and run from the stock headunit, although the following conversion cables will need to be purchased:
Ai-Net to MBus Adapter
Honda / Acura to Alpine Adapter
{See Thread}

Vehicle Identification (VIN)

The following is a breakdown of what your 17-digit Acura Legend Vehicle Idenfication Number (VIN) denotes:

Digit 1-3 - Manufacturer
JH4 = Honda Motor Co. LTD

Digit 4-6 - Body Type
KA4 = 86-90 All
KA7 = 91-95 4 Door Sedan
KA8 = 91-95 2 Door Coupe

Digit 7 - Transmission
1 = Manual (86-90)
2 = Automatic (86-90)
6 = Automatic (91-95)
7 = Manual (91-95)

Digit 8 - Option/Trim Package
3 = 86-90 Standard (No Sunroof)
4 = 86-90 Standard (Sunroof)
5 = 86-90 Leather Interior
6 = 86-95 L Trim
7 = 86-95 LS Trim
8 = 93-95 GS Trim
9 = 93-95 SE Trim

Digit 9
Check digit

Digit 10 - Production Year
G = 1986
H = 1987
J = 1988
K = 1989
L = 1990
M = 1991
N = 1992
P = 1993
R = 1994
S = 1995

Digit 11 - Assembly Plant Location
C = Saitama, Japan

Digit 12-17
Individual vehicle serial number

For example:
JH4KA8175RC000001 is a 1994 Legend LS Coupe - Manual Transmission
JH4KA7265PC000002 is a 1993 Legend L Sedan - Automatic Transmission

-ECU Codes-

Getting that little Check Engine lights on your dash may seem a little discomforting. In reality it is really a miracle of engineering and computer technology. Instead of randomly pocking in vast amounts of wires, sensors, and mechanisms in such complex car as a Legend, this little light tells you that your computer knows exactly what is wrong with the car (most of the time).

That means the exact sensor or gate has been pin-pointed as being either partially disconnected or simply out of acceptable range.

Location of ECU on 1986-1990 Legends

The control unit is located under the passenger seat on sedans and under the passenger foot well carpet on the coupes.
The engine CPU is the form of an aluminum box with a little plexiglass window. All you have to observe is a little red LED.

Location of ECU on 1991-1995 Legends

On the 1991-1995 Acura/Honda Legends, you have to jump a service connector located on the passenger side right under the dashboard near the door. The connector has two pin inputs. Connecting them with something like a paper clip will force the check engine light on the dashboard to display the codes.

Extracting Codes

With the car either running or the key in the ON position, perform the necessary steps above and observe the blinking of the light. The light will blink displaying all the codes in sequence and then repeating them.

Reading Codes

The code numbers are read by counting the number of blinks between longer pauses. On 1986-1990 Legends, the code number is indicacted by a series of rapid LED blinks between longer pauses.

On 1991-1995 cars, codes 1-9 are indicated by a series of short flashes; two digit codes use a number of long flashes for the first digit followed by the number of short flashes for the second digit. So a code 43 will be represented by 4 long and 3 short flashes.

The position of codes in a sequence can be helpful in doing diagnostics. A display showing 1-1-1-pause-9-9-9 indicates two problems occurring at different times. A sequence showing 1-9-1-9-1-9 indicates two problems occurring at the same time.

Resetting ECU

Sometimes it may be useful to reset the ECU memory. Although that maybe done by removing the battery for around 20 minutes or so, this will also kill your clock and radio presets. A more elegant way is to:

on 86-90 Legends remove the alternator fuse for 20 seconds.
on 91-95 Legends remove the ACG fuse in the interior fuse panel for 20 seconds. (note that this will also clear the seat memory)



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Below are trouble codes for 86-95 Acura/Honda Legends:

1986-1990 Legend (G1)
Code # Explanation
1 Front Oxygen Sensor
2 Rear Oxygen Sensor
3 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
5 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
4 Crank Angle Sensor
6 Coolant Temperature Sensor
7 Throttle Angle Sensor
8 Top-Dead-Center Position Sensor
9 Number 1 Cylinder Piston Position
10 Intake Temperature Sensor
12 E.G.R. System
13 Atmospheric Pressure Sensor
14 Electronic Idle Control Module
15 Ignition Output Signal
17 Vehicle Speed Sensor
18 Ignition Timing Adjustment




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1991-1995 Legend (G2)

Code # Explanation
1 Left Oxygen Sensor
2 Right Oxygen Sensor
3 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
5 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
4 Crank Angle Sensor
6 Coolant Temperature Sensor
7 Throttle Angle Sensor
9 Number 1 Cylinder Position (No. 1 Sensor)
10 Intake Temperature Sensor
12 E.G.R. Sensor
13 Atmospheric Pressure Sensor
14 Electronic Idle Control Module
15 Ignition Output Signal
16 Fuel Injector
17 Vehicle Speed Sensor
18 Ignition Timing Adjustment
23 Left Knock Sensor
41 Left Oxygen Sensor Heater
42 Right Oxygen Sensor Heater
43 Left Fuel Supply System
44 Right Fuel Supply System
45 Left Fuel Metering
46 Right Fuel Metering
53 Right Knock Sensor
54 Crank Angle 2 Sensor
59 Number 1 Cylinder Position (No. 2 Sensor)

(Thanks to Leon Millete for this thread here)

[Daddymac117]

Newbie FAQ Addition #2

Engine Swaps
In theory, if you have the time (and money), just about any engine swap is possible, just most will require extensive bodywork, engine bay work, pain, and suffering, so again unless you have money burning a hole in your pocket, most swaps with other Honda/Acura engines should not be attempted. On the other hand, there are a few exceptions to what can be swapped and what can't:

~All Possible~
- [USDM Type I -> USDM Type II]: Can be swapped easily with no custom mounts or anything...just drops right in (works with Type I ECU, but works noticibly better with Type II ECU swapped also){also works vice versa}
- [USDM Type I -> JDM Type I/II]: Same as above, just drops right in, nothing custom about it. {also works vice versa}
- [USDM Type I -> EDM Type I/II]: Same as above, still nothing fancy. {also works vice versa}
- [Type I heads -> Type II heads/intake manifold]: Possible with a few modifications, this would turn your Type I into a Type II...its just alot easier to do a complete swap than to modify all this.
- [Legend Type I -> 96-98 TL/Inspire]: Totally possible, since the TLs from these years shared the same C32A Type I that the Legend used from 91-95.

~NOT Possible without serious money/time~
- [Legend -> 96-03 3.5 RL/Legend]: Possible with money, and has already been done by member 'DV8' (do a search).
- [Legend C32 -> NSX C32]: Requires SERIOUS money, since this C32 engine is wider than the Legends C32, and would require the rest of the car to be completely modified to accomodate this engine. The intake manifold isnt swappable from the NSX either.
- [Legend -> 99-04 TL/Inspire]: Completely different engines...Legend uses the C block which is laterally mounted, TL/Inspire's use the J block which is completely sideways (transversely mounted).
- [Legend -> 96-03 CL]: Same as above, the CL uses the J block also.

and remember, the Legend's engine is a 6 cylinder, and these heavy bodies need hp and torque...not really much point in trying to throw in a 4 banger from an Integra or Civic...unless your heart is really set on it and your pockets are burning your thighs.

But still, just about anything CAN be accomplished if you have the money, boredom, and time.

USEFUL Spark Plug Info (By MikeD )

Originally Posted by MikeD

Spark Plugs & What They Say

Our spark plugs... usually the most hated stuff and sometimes kinda frustrating. Sometimes we can make this easy or we can make it hard. If it's hard then it's kinda annoying. Why? Well, let's start with easy. After running for a while normally, we should stop to take out spark plugs and look at how their condition is.
Now take look on the spark plug porcelain for the color and the condition of it. Plug colors tell the mechanic, how the engine runs and can be very important. Plugs change colors and the different colors can explain such things as if the engine is running too hot or if the engine is worn. The color should be read by looking at the porcelain insulator and compared to the plugs shown on the next few slides.


Standard Light Brown Basicially they should look tan colored!
A tan colored plug means that the engine is running normal and the air/fuel mixture is correct. This is the correct color a spark plug should be and it tells the mechanic everything is fine with the engine. The mechanic would install a new properly gapped plug. When installing a new plug, replace the old one with the same heat range. The plug below shows normal wear in the center electrode. A new plug would have square edges that helps the plug firing better.




Black & Sooty Engine runs too rich!
If you noticed that your plugs look like this, your engine runs too rich in the fuel departement or too cold of spark plug!




Black Dry & Fluffy Too much gas!
A black dry fluffy colored plug is caused by deposits from a carburetor, that is running too rich (too much gas), or excessive idling on some engines. Black smoke coming from the exhaust is a sign of a rich air/fuel mixture. The rich air/fuel mixture must be repaired before installing a new spark plug. Common causes for a rich air/fuel mixture are:

- Dirty Air Filter.
- Air Mixture Screw Or Carburetor Needs Adjusting.
- Choke Is Sticking. {obsolete but still valid}
- Carburetor Float Height Out Of Adjustment Or Float Is Sticking Open.




Black & Shiny If your sparks look like this, they are oil fouled!
A black wet shiny or glazed colored plug, is caused by burned oil that is leaking past the piston rings or valve guides / seals and burns in the cylinder. This engine will have blue smoke coming out of the exhaust. It is a sign, that the engine will need rebuilding. Two strokes that have this color spark plug are burning the transmission oil from the crankcase. If a new spark plug is installed, it will foul and quit working. Common causes for this problem are:

- Worn Piston & Rings.
- Worn Valve Guides / Seals.
- Worn Cylinder Bore.
- Crankshaft Seals are bad or cases, that need lapping (if on a two stroke engine with a tranny).





Whitish Too lean of a mixture!
If they are whitish, you're running too lean a fuel mixture and / or wrong ignition timing, or too hot of spark plug. When you see this, your engine is about to blow up!
A white colored plug is caused by the engine overheating. Failure to repair this engine will result in severe engine damage. Common causes for this are:

- Incorrect Spark Plug (too hot heat range).
- Low Octane Fuel.
- Timing Not Set Properly.
- Cooling Problems, (dirty cylinder fins, no or low water if water cooled, low or no engine oil).
- Carburetor Air/Fuel Mixture Too Lean (too much air).
- Leaking Crankshaft Seals. (no oil, base or head gasket leaks, or crankcase leaks on two stroke engines).




Hit Plug Fatal !
The plug below shows what can happen when something hits the spark plug. Something from inside the engine has hit the plug and this problem must be repaired before running the engine further. Make sure the spark plug is the correct length for the engine.





Detonation Plug Engine damage !
Excessive detonation has caused that the porcelain on this plug to break away. If this engine is allowed to run, engine damage can occur. Make sure the fuel octane is high enough for the engines requirements.





Carbon Plug Misfire !
The plug below has carbon across the plug gap. This is usually caused by carbon that is loosened and it lodges between the gap causing the plug to misfire.





Preignition Failure Engine damage !
The plug below was caused by pre-ignition and failure to repair this condition what will cause damage to the engine. Check for the following:

- Over Advanced Ignition Timing
- Correct Heat Range Plug
- Lean Air/Fuel Mixture
- Cooling System
- Lack Of Lubrication





Worn Out Plug Engine running poorly!
The plug below is worn out from being used for a long period of time. Notice how the center electrode is round and worn from use. A spark plug that is worn takes a lot more voltage to fire and can cause the engine to run poorly.



Now the harder stuff...
A spark plug doesn't make your engine run hotter or colder. The terms hot or cold refer to the temp of the tip of the spark plug itself. The plug must keep a temperature of, between 752°F & 1652°F. If it gets too hot, then it can fire off the air/fuel mixture at a wrong time. This can cause the detonation and/or pinging, which will put a hole in your piston {That's really not good!}. If it gets too cold it will not burn off the carbon and fuel deposits on it's tip and the plug will foul out (stop working) not good either.



The heat range of a spark plug is controlled by a length of the center electrode. A longer one is hotter bc it takes more longer for the heat to flow thru it to the cylinder head. As you might think, the cooler plug has a short center electrode.


To get a true plug color reading, you should run your engine on a level road, at the throttle setting that you want to test, for about 1-2 miles, then kill the ignition, pull the clutch in and coast to a stop. Then pull the plug and look at it. It might sounds hard, but sometimes a really good way to test it.
As for the engine ages and more oil gets past the rings a hotter plug may be in order. If you ride at low speeds all times, a hotter plug will keep the plugs from fouling. If you love high speeds, a cooler plug may be just the ticket. Don't be afraid to pull the plug out and give 'er a read! It's always worth it .

Ok, that was the info about our spark plugs. I hope I could help you a lil bit. After you checked out your spark plugs and their condition, make sure you got the right color of condition. That's also very useful for the feature. Now you know... It's very important. Maybe you should consider (if not yet) to buy Platinum plugs. More info you can read here... Platinum Spark Plugs. Good luck. -Mike

[Mike Diaz]

nice backup.

[Daddymac117]

Originally Posted by Mike Diaz

nice backup.

yea, i decided any legend owners over here who arent a-l.com members could use this too...i PMed LegendC to see if he could sticky this too

[LegendC]

Sticky!

Let the others know that if they want any info like this to be available when A-L goes down to PM me or post in this thread.

[legendarylegendz]

Cool - I also have some other info on the site to back this up
www.legendarylegendz.com/FAQ.html

Good job Mac!

[phan_nam420]

Lamp Replacement Guide 91-95
Included is the basic part number & side notes.

Low beam headlamp
9006
9006ST Silverstar High Performance Lighting: the whitest and brightest Halogen
9006XV XtraVision Halogen Upgrade: Up to 20% Brighter
9006CB Cool Blue Halogen Upgrade: White Hot; Super Cool; 100% Street Legal
9006LL Long Life Halogen Upgrade: Lasts one and a half times longer

High beam headlamp
9005
9005ST Silverstar High Performance Lighting: the whitest and brightest Halogen
9005CB Cool Blue Halogen Upgrade: White Hot; Super Cool; 100% Street Legal

Parking light
168
3652

Front turn signal
3497

Rear turn signal
3497

Tail light
2057
2057LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp
67

Stop light
2057
2057LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp

High mount stop light
3497

License plate
168

Back up light
1156
1156LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp

Front sidemarker
168

Rear sidemarker
168

Map light
168

Dome light
168

Step/Courtesy light
DE3021

Trunk/Cargo area
DE3021

[zapp24]

any estimate as to when the 94-95 manual will be available?