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Changing the Main-Relay on the RL - DIY

190K views 67 replies 45 participants last post by  ThinCrusts 
#1 · (Edited)
Recently it seems like quite a few people been having problems with the RL main-relay.
I had to take some pictures for "kry01" and figure I'd put together a DIY. Hopefully it
will help save someone a few $$.

Symptom:
The starter cranks when you turn the key but the RL will not start.

Tests:
Make sure fuel is getting up front - disconnect the lower fuel lines from the fuel filter and
turn the key. If it gas is flowing then it's probably not the main-relay nor the fuel pump.
However if gas is not flowing there is a big possibility it's the main relay (small chance it
could also be your fuel-pump).

Steps to replace the Main-Relay:

1) You might first want to disconnect one of the battery cables - just a precaution since
you're replacing an electrical part.

2) Remove the panel below the steering wheel, no tools needed its just snap-on
(see red arrows pointing to metal clips around the edges).

Helmet


Bumper Automotive exterior Auto part Vehicle



3) Disconnect the connectors from the main-relay box (black box, you might need a
flash light) and remove the relay box (black box). You might need a flat screw driver
to stick between the box and the bracket (see bracket below) The plastic clip on the
box fits into the notch in the bracket (see red arrow).

Auto part Engine Wire Fuel line Automotive engine part


This is the clip on the box that fits into the slot on the bracket.

Technology Electronic device Electronics


4) Connect the new relay and reverse steps 1-3 to put everything back together.
 

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#2 ·
GREAT POST

I had my car towed as it died on me on the road. This forum saved the day again. I replaced the main relay and it started up perfectly.

I am having trouble though putting it back into the bracket. So tight in there. I left it hanging on the wires to get me home. I will work on it tonight.

Wow. I love this forum.
 
#6 ·
We've had this kind of relay problem since the mid-late 90's in our Vigors. They main relay will run from 50-90 depending on where you are getting it from. You can also repair the relay if you are handy with a soldering iron. Many Honda/Acura owners, myself included, have repaired their relays and have had the problem disappear.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Is this the same procedure for a 2000 RL

Mine went dead the other day, then got it started again. Started right up the following morning, but died on the turnpike!! Had to get it towed, now just turns over, smells like no gas present.

Is replacing the main relay the place to start? I think the fule pump is in the tank. Does anyone know otherwise?


SUCCESS!!

I REPLACED THE MAIN RELAY AND IT RUNS LIKE A CHARM.. WAS DIFFICULT TO GET AT, MINE WAS UP BEHIND THE STEERING COLUMN. COULD NOT GET IT TO HANG BACK UP, SO ITS IN THERE FLOATING BUT WITH SO MUCH STUFF IN THERE, ITS REALLY NOT MOVING AROUND AT ALL.. PART WAS $75 FROM ACURA DEALER.. PARTS GUY SAID THEY GO ALL THE TIME AND DIDNT NEED TO LOOK UP THE PART NUMBER FOR ME THATS HOW OFTEN THEY PASS THRU HIS HANDS.
 
#12 ·
Mine went dead the other day, then got it started again. Started right up the following morning, but died on the turnpike!! Had to get it towed, now just turns over, smells like no gas present.

Is replacing the main relay the place to start? I think the fule pump is in the tank. Does anyone know otherwise?


SUCCESS!!

I REPLACED THE MAIN RELAY AND IT RUNS LIKE A CHARM.. WAS DIFFICULT TO GET AT, MINE WAS UP BEHIND THE STEERING COLUMN. COULD NOT GET IT TO HANG BACK UP, SO ITS IN THERE FLOATING BUT WITH SO MUCH STUFF IN THERE, ITS REALLY NOT MOVING AROUND AT ALL.. PART WAS $75 FROM ACURA DEALER.. PARTS GUY SAID THEY GO ALL THE TIME AND DIDNT NEED TO LOOK UP THE PART NUMBER FOR ME THATS HOW OFTEN THEY PASS THRU HIS HANDS.
Guys, I finally replaced my main relay in foot of snow and 10 degrees out. talk about clausterphobic, jesus, it is tight down there....Im hardly mechanically inclined but I figured I'd give it a try...i first layed on my back, then got on my knees cuz all the blood was rushing to my head! then i started panicking cuz i couldn't get the damn 2nd wiring harness off. I tried to pull the old main relay off(black box) and that sucker would not come off. so I just unplugged the 2 wires and plugged it into the new relay. I still however need to get the old relay out as the new one is just dangling and i might accidently step on it when i press the brakes.

can someone tell me in little more detail as to how the relay comes off and goes back on? I'd sincerely appreciate it.
 
#8 ·
Main relay

I had the same problem. A friend I know who works at the Acura dealer said its a recurring problem wth the RL's. That relay is a dealer only part and mine was $75. Once I repplaced it car started with no problem. Spend the extra time to put the relay back in the bracket. Small fingers and a flat tip screwdriver help alot!!!!!
 
#9 ·
guys,

It seems like im having hard time finding it on my 00 RL. If your sitting in the driver side, is it on the lower right hand side, kinda by center console? at first i thought it was on the steering column since I saw something that looked like it but i think its on the lower right kinda by just above the gas pedal?
 
#13 ·
I experienced the crank, no start condition yesterday. While driving on the highway a few days ago, I felt a vibration twice for about 2 seconds like the wheel was out of alignment and then it went away. I now believe this to be from the main relay acting up and cutting out the fuel causing the vibration. Maybe its just me, but I notice vibrations like that one and take notice.

Went to the Acura dealer and got a new relay for $72.
The plastic bag on the left is the new relay I got from the dealer and the relay on the right is the old relay.

BTW, to get the relay off the bracket, push up and it comes right out. Getting it back in is another matter.

This forum rocks. THANKS.

Mark
Durham, NC

 
#14 ·
I experienced the crank, no start condition yesterday. While driving on the highway a few days ago, I felt a vibration twice for about 2 seconds like the wheel was out of alignment and then it went away. I now believe this to be from the main relay acting up and cutting out the fuel causing the vibration. Maybe its just me, but I notice vibrations like that one and take notice.

Went to the Acura dealer and got a new relay for $72.
The plastic bag on the left is the new relay I got from the dealer and the relay on the right is the old relay.

BTW, to get the relay off the bracket, push up and it comes right out. Getting it back in is another matter.

This forum rocks. THANKS.

Mark
Durham, NC

Mark,

to get the relay box off, what do you mean push up? push up on the box or put a screwdriver up there and push up?
 
#15 ·
The small tit that holds the relay in place is really thin. I did slide in a thin flat blade screwdriver between the back of the relay and the metal mounting plate to override the retaining tit. Push up on the relay towards the dash and the relay will slide off of the mount. This all happens with you laying on your back and you head directly below the relay. Good luck.

Mark
 
#16 ·
The small tit that holds the relay in place is really thin. I did slide in a thin flat blade screwdriver between the back of the relay and the metal mounting plate to override the retaining tit. Push up on the relay towards the dash and the relay will slide off of the mount. This all happens with you laying on your back and you head directly below the relay. Good luck.

Mark
Thanks!


P.S. LMFAO at tit:lol:
 
#17 ·
I too had to change the relay and if you use a 6 inch long 3/8 inch allen wrench you can slide it up along side of the relay turning the wrench and pull down to lock in place... Worked like a charm and I also could have done it without having to remove the panel... I did remove it and those damn clips flew eveywhere... BTW, Carland Acura in GA, via the internet, has the relay for 46 dollars with no sales tax for out of state purchases and about 9 shipping and 5 dollars handling = 60 dollars... If you need several things the shipping costs are much less of an affect... Still much cheaper than in VA costing 80 dollars with tax...
 
#19 ·
I have often wondered where those clips go... Everytime I pull the panels off to replace a switch or cabin filter they go flying... I can never find at least half of them... Any body had any luck finding them and where or how??? Is there a trick to remove the panel and not pop off the clips???
 
#21 ·
I drive a 99 Acura CL 2.3L and I was having the same problem as described in the first post. While driving, the car would just randomly shut off. I could be going 70 mph down the highway and it would just turn off. It would stop while sitting at a stop light, driving 25 mph, etc., basically with no warning or pattern. After attempting to start it again 6-7 times, it would finally start back up. I would still have electrical power to the radio and other accessories, but things like turn signal, headlights, etc., would lose power (basically anything in the dash board). The problem used to occur every once in a while, like once a week, etc. But it progressively got worse, to the point where I couldn't even drive one mile before it would shut off. I would then have to pull over, try to start it again after 6-7 times, it would start back up, drive less than another mile down the road and it would do the same thing. After reading this thread, I decided to try replacing the main relay (reading the DIY thread). This cost $85 and DID NOT fix the problem. I then took the car to an import specialist, and they quickly told me that it is likely the ignition switch, as it is a common problems with accords (and a CL has the same engine). I read other suggestions about replacing the ignition switch, and that made less sense to me. If the car would not start up AT ALL, then I would think that it is a problem with the ignition switch. But as it turns out, the ignition switch actually relays power from the engine back to the vehicle. After hearing this good news from the import guys, it got even better, they explained that the ignition switch was covered as Acura did a recall on the part. The next day I took it to the Acura dealership, they replaced the part for free, and now it is running smoothly without any problems. Just wanted to give everyone a heads up in case they run into the same sort of problem, and take the time to thank you all for the suggestions as well!
 
#22 ·
Same problem! I have an '02 RL and have this intermittent engine quiting problem as well. I can attempt to start the car anytime of the day and the engine will run for 3 seconds and then quit. It will then start and run after 1-3 attempts. It can also just die at the stop light and will require several attempts before it runs. Or driving down the freeway it will just die. I usually shift into neutral and coast while trying to start it. It will then run after 2-3 attempts and I shift back into drive and continue. This has been happening randomly for 1 year but has been happening with increasing frequency.

I've taken to the dealer twice over the past year and they can find nothing. I went back today and they put it on the computer and found nothing but they said it might be the electronic part of the ignition switch. That was the mechanic's gut feeling. They wanted $300 for the part and installation. So I asked "What if that's not the problem?" and the guy says well we will need to keep looking. Yeah right! I'm going to spend $300 on their guess. So I came home and checked this board.


My mechanical instinct told me it was not the electrical portion of the ignition switch like the dealer said so Friday I went back to the dealer and bought the main fuel relay switch. It cost me $83. I could have ordered it on line for $60 but this was one of those times one can't wait.

My wife had her RL at her business and in the afternoon it would not start at all. The relay finally gave up for good. I replaced the relay and it started right up. Problem solved. With the 2002 model no panels need to be removed and it took 5 minutes to replace. The only "trick" is to push the switch up to remove it from the bracket.

Thanks to this board I saved more "futile" trips to the dealer, a lot of inconvenience and some unnecessary expense. Thanks to all who shared this info!
 
#24 ·
1999 Acura RL 3.5 4DR
My car started to die after a few miles run and then, after a long rest, back to start again. This happened for a couple of weeks until Monday, now is all dead. Car will start if I put some carburetor cleaner inside the engine manually (intake manifold). I tested the fuel lines for pressure and there is none…
So, my question, how are the possibilities between these two: ….Main Relay or Fuel Pump? Chances!!
Hope is not the pump because where I live the fuel pump price is above $600.00…outrageous!!...I think a racing fuel pump will do the job quite well and not so highly priced. But, where or which one is the correct one?
Thx!!
 
#28 ·
Guys I got a main relay, switched out the old, and its still not working....How do you tell if a main relay is out...you can always buy a faulty product...any recommendations......My ? is if a main relay is not working, when you turn the key over and you hear a clicking sound when connecting the relay does this mean the main relay is ok???? Please Help...I don't want to change my fuel pump if I don't have to....
 
#29 ·
its me again......I just stated that I baught a new main relay and it still isn't starting my car.......my ignition switch is hard to turn and its been this way for about 2 years...when I'm driving I can actually take the key out of the ignition and it will still run......(remember I can't start my car now) do you think its my ignition switch??? IF SO IS the ignition switch hard to change?
 
#30 ·
I was having the same problem of stalling and not restarting. Took the relay out and apart. You could see with a naked eye the cracks in the solder joints on the back side of the board. Real easy fix heat up your iron, "tin" it, hold it on the terminal and wait for it to re-pool up, then just add a little more and it's fixed. Happy to say I saved $68 bucks.
 
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