Rotors replacement 2002 RL - Acura Forum : Acura Forums
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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-01-06, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
 
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Rotors replacement 2002 RL

Could anyone post instructions/photos on front rotors replacement?
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post #2 of 33 Old 10-03-06, 07:47 AM
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OK, lets give it a try:

1. Park the car on an even surface.
2. Apply the parking brake.
3. Put the AT in P.
4. Jack up the car and take off the front wheels.
5. Remove both brake hose bolts (see pic below)


6. Remove the caliper bolts and take off the caliper body (they are here, sorry dont have another pic)


7. Remove the caliper bracket (this is the part on which the caliper is bolted on)
Now the rotor is free to be removed.
8. Remove the two 6mm security screws (see pic below)


9. Pull the rotor off. NOTE: if the brake disc is difficult to remove (NEVER hit the rotors with a hammer to remove), install two 8mm bolts into the threaded holes and thighten them. the disc will then come off. (see pic below)


10. Clean the front hub from any dirt.
11. Apply heat resistant molykote (copper paste is high temperature resistant) to the front hub (on the surface where the disc touches the hub)


12. Put the new rotor on the hub and secure with the 6mm bolts. DO NOT tighten them to strong, otherwise the disc may run out of parallelism.
13. Clean the caliper bracket and all pad springs (the shiny metal parts).
14. Install the caliper bracket.
15. Apply heat resistant molykote to corners of the caliper bracket, where the brake pads slide on and the brake pads corners too (see pic below)


16. Apply heat resistant molykote to both surfaces of the shims and back of the pads. MAKE SURE the brake pad surface is clean and no molykote or any other dirt is on it.
17. Install only NEW brake pads (never replace rotors only. they always must be installed with new brake pads).
18. Apply heat resistant molykote to the caliper body and the brake piston, where it touches the brake pads (see pic below)


19. Install the caliper body on the caliper bracket. Tighten all bolts.
20. Bolt on the brake hose.
21. Put the wheels on the car. Tighten the wheel bolts with 130 Nm.
22. Shift to N and try if you can rotate the wheel.

REMEMBER:
when running on new brakes follow these rules to avoid any vibrations while braking (discs worn out, parallelism out of range, etc.)

0-100 miles
avoid emergency braking. do not overheat the brakes. apply brake power only slowly and softly.

100-300 miles
put more power on the brake pedal but still avoid emergency braking. do not overheat the brakes.

300-500 miles
apply usual brake power. emergency braking is possible but avoid overheating the brakes with continuous braking over a long period of time.

over 500 miles
your brakes should be perfect now.


ANNEX:
this is my personal guide for replacing the brake rotors and brake pads. i hope i could help you out. but if you have any doubts about it, please get in touch with a certified acura dealer.
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post #3 of 33 Old 10-04-06, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thank you

What is heat resistant molykote?
I always used the black paste when I did the brakes!!
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post #4 of 33 Old 10-04-06, 12:11 PM
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yes, it is the black paste supplied with the brake pads.

i only wanted to point out, that such molykote must be heat resistant (up to 1000 C / 1800 F)
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post #5 of 33 Old 10-05-06, 12:25 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RLuke View Post
yes, it is the black paste supplied with the brake pads.

i only wanted to point out, that such molykote must be heat resistant (up to 1000 C / 1800 F)
holy moly, i cant believe you guys actually do this yourselves...more power to ya! moreover, i can't believe you guys actually take pics and post it here for all to see....that's great! I wish i was mechanically inclined!
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post #6 of 33 Old 10-05-06, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
 
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What brand do you recommend for the front?
I was looking for Brembo but couldn't find anyone that carries them.
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post #7 of 33 Old 10-05-06, 04:47 PM
 
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Originally Posted by blaser View Post
What brand do you recommend for the front?
I was looking for Brembo but couldn't find anyone that carries them.
I wouldn't even mess around when it comes to brake parts...due to the squeely and finnickyness of it, I'd always stick to OEM if i can when it comes to brake parts!
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post #8 of 33 Old 10-06-06, 04:52 AM
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yeah, right. go for OEM. they are OK if you treat them right at the beginning (as described above).
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post #9 of 33 Old 11-02-06, 06:27 PM
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My Thanks

The write-up on replacing the rotors was wonderful. On my first attempt at replacing the pads and re-surfacing the front rotors on my 02 MDX, they work great. I had a local shop re-surface the rotors. Used all OEM parts. I saved enough money to buy a 3 ton floor jack and a small pneumatic tool set. Brake dust is very hard to wash off, so you will want to wear some disposable latex gloves. It is important that you have the right bolts that screw into the rotor to help remove the rotor from the hub. I am now working on the rear wheels and should finish them tonight.

Thanks again.
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post #10 of 33 Old 11-09-06, 04:09 PM
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Rotor replacement

Excellent write up. Thanks for posting it. As for the rotors re-surfacing, this may not be worth the trouble considering the cost of new rotors. True re-surfacing should be done ON THE CAR, and it is very rear that brake shops have equipment for it. For the cost of the OEM Honda rotors at about $120 a pair shipped from Drivewire.com it is probably not worth it. I usually get 50-60K out of the one set of rotors, so I almost never do re-surfacing, and on some cars rotors are surface treated, so cutting them will leave bare soft metal. I do not think honda did it on 2002 RL but it may be the case with newer cars, sinc BMW does it since 1992.
Thanks again for the great writeup.

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post #11 of 33 Old 11-09-06, 06:19 PM
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What an excellent guide! I wish I had it fifteen years ago, it would have saved me mistakes on one Accord two Legends and my current 2002 RL. You've covered it all, especially the part about breaking in new pads and rotors. Sometimes the 6 mm screws can be hard to remove, so I use either WD 40 or a spray or bolt loosening liquid generally available at Pep boys or NAPA, combined with a tool that you wack on the end with a sledge hammer, and it turns the screw counter-clockwise. (I forgot what it's called, but the vibration and the torqe loosens the screw every time without stripping). I would also ad, for a really premium front brake job, try EBC sloted and dimpled rotors, plus a set of their pads or Akino(sp?) pads. I have these on now and think they're great.
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post #12 of 33 Old 11-10-06, 04:41 PM
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You're welcome. It was a pleasure to help you out with this guide.
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post #13 of 33 Old 01-18-07, 11:16 AM
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Rluke.....Very nice write up.

2000 RL Navigation / Silver
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post #14 of 33 Old 04-18-07, 09:02 AM
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Can you have cross drilled rotors turned? Not slotted.
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post #15 of 33 Old 05-02-07, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp10 View Post
Can you have cross drilled rotors turned? Not slotted.
Yes you can. Just make sure it is needed. I found that most of cross drilled aftermarket rotors are not worth it. Rotors should not warp. They may change thickness and needed to be resurfaced from both sides. I am replacing mine when needed. It is less trouble and better solution anyway. I do use Honda genuine parts. I hope it helps.

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