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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'll bet this is an easy one... I just haven't found the answer yet: Out of the blue, I have a no crank/no start condition in my 2000 TL. Up until now, this has been a really great car.

The car seemed to exhibit something like a low battery condition, because there was a “fast click” when trying to start the car. Jump-starting did nothing – the car still would not start. The starter was changed, and the car would still not start, even when jumped.

When I hear the “fast click” when trying to crank the engine, I can feel the starter relay under the dash clicking at the same time. In the engine compartment, I can hear the starter solenoid doing the “fast click.”

If I was to guess, I would say that the “fast click” clicks at ~10hz. It’s almost but not quite a buzz.

A frayed transmission-to-body ground strap was found and replaced. (It seemed odd that this strap would be frayed.)

The original starter was tested, and it was okay. The battery was load-tested and it was okay.

The original starter was re-installed. Still no crank/no start with the “fast click,” even when hooked up and using the “start/fast charge” setting on my battery charger.

The new starter was re-installed, and after jump-starting it and attempting to crank it 3 or 4 times, it started! It started another ~2 dozen times, and then suddenly it wouldn’t crank or start again. When it wouldn't start, the “fast click” was present as before.

The battery-to-transaxle and body ground strap was found to be loose on the transaxle end. It was removed, inspected, cleaned up, and correctly re-installed. No change - still no crank/no start.

There are no DTCs present. There are no pending DTCs.

There are no blown fuses.

Immobilizer: when inserting the key and turning the ignition switch on (position II), the light will illuminate for ~2 seconds and then go out. It does not flash. This is correct operation per the owner’s manual. After turning the ignition switch off and removing the key, the “green key” immobilizer light flashes 5 times. My totally functional 2008 Odyssey does exactly the same thing, so I think the immobilizer is operating properly and without faults that would keep the starter from cranking.

It is also my understanding that if there was an immobilizer issue, the car would crank - but it won't even do that.

Even so, the ignition switch wiring harness has been replaced.

Where should I go next?

Many thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The problem was a bad ground through a bracket.

The ground strap running from the frame to the transaxle close to the “nose” of the transaxle had frayed, and I replaced it early on. The transaxle side of the connection was made on the “finger” of a typical Honda bracket. This bracket was then bolted to the transaxle, kind of over the top of the external transmission filter. Earlier today, I moved the ground connection from the “finger” of the bracket to where the bracket bolted to the transmission (after wire-brushing this area, of course). This fixed the no crank/no start problem.

I verified the solution by removing the ground strap entirely. The problem was recreated, and the engine would not crank.

Other things that I had considered:
  • Were the flex plate teeth (like the flywheel teeth) broken? No
  • Could I power the starter solenoid directly from the battery to make the engine crank? Yes.
  • Was this an immobilizer problem? No, I don't think so, because the engine wouldn't crank. I think the immobilizer will allow the engine to crank but it won't start
  • If I had an oscilloscope, I would have started examining voltage at the starter, starter solenoid, relay, etc.
 

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2018 Acura RDX Tech, AWD
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The problem was a bad ground through a bracket.

The ground strap running from the frame to the transaxle close to the “nose” of the transaxle had frayed, and I replaced it early on. The transaxle side of the connection was made on the “finger” of a typical Honda bracket. This bracket was then bolted to the transaxle, kind of over the top of the external transmission filter. Earlier today, I moved the ground connection from the “finger” of the bracket to where the bracket bolted to the transmission (after wire-brushing this area, of course). This fixed the no crank/no start problem.

I verified the solution by removing the ground strap entirely. The problem was recreated, and the engine would not crank.

Other things that I had considered:
  • Were the flex plate teeth (like the flywheel teeth) broken? No
  • Could I power the starter solenoid directly from the battery to make the engine crank? Yes.
  • Was this an immobilizer problem? No, I don't think so, because the engine wouldn't crank. I think the immobilizer will allow the engine to crank but it won't start
  • If I had an oscilloscope, I would have started examining voltage at the starter, starter solenoid, relay, etc.
Thank you for posting the solution to your issue. That should help other members who may experience this in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you for posting the solution to your issue. That should help other members who may experience this in the future.
Going just a bit further on the solution... This kind of problem can happen not only with older vehicles, but also with vehicles where the transmission has been replaced. Sometimes the new transmission has been painted, and the ground strap connection will fail in this manner if the paint is not removed when the ground strap is connected.

I would imagine that this problem could occur in just about any other vehicle, too.

It's so important to post solutions to problems, not just the problems themselves. :)
 

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White Diamond Pearl '02 Acura TL Type S w/Navi
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Very true. I find this a problem in a lot of forums where the poster never comes back with their eventual solution. Thanks again for taking the time to provide this solution.
Man, there's almost nothing worse than finding a thread that matches your problem, but discovering it's been abandoned or that the OP just says, "Hey! I fixed it!"

Thanks for posting the problem AND its eventual fix. 😁👍
 

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The problem was a bad ground through a bracket.

The ground strap running from the frame to the transaxle close to the “nose” of the transaxle had frayed, and I replaced it early on. The transaxle side of the connection was made on the “finger” of a typical Honda bracket. This bracket was then bolted to the transaxle, kind of over the top of the external transmission filter. Earlier today, I moved the ground connection from the “finger” of the bracket to where the bracket bolted to the transmission (after wire-brushing this area, of course). This fixed the no crank/no start problem.

I verified the solution by removing the ground strap entirely. The problem was recreated, and the engine would not crank.

Other things that I had considered:
  • Were the flex plate teeth (like the flywheel teeth) broken? No
  • Could I power the starter solenoid directly from the battery to make the engine crank? Yes.
  • Was this an immobilizer problem? No, I don't think so, because the engine wouldn't crank. I think the immobilizer will allow the engine to crank but it won't start
  • If I had an oscilloscope, I would have started examining voltage at the starter, starter solenoid, relay, etc.
I just run into the no crank no start problem with my son’s 2000 Acura TL. Thanks formposting the solution! Will try it out and post results
 

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In my case it was the starter. Replaced and car starts fine now.
I have seen poor connections at the battery terminals cause no crank. Wire brush the post and connector till they are shiny metal and wipe a thin layer of vaseline on each one and you don't need to tighten it so much. Cleaner works better than tighter.
 

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I'll bet this is an easy one... I just haven't found the answer yet: Out of the blue, I have a no crank/no start condition in my 2000 TL. Up until now, this has been a really great car.

The car seemed to exhibit something like a low battery condition, because there was a “fast click” when trying to start the car. Jump-starting did nothing – the car still would not start. The starter was changed, and the car would still not start, even when jumped.

When I hear the “fast click” when trying to crank the engine, I can feel the starter relay under the dash clicking at the same time. In the engine compartment, I can hear the starter solenoid doing the “fast click.”

If I was to guess, I would say that the “fast click” clicks at ~10hz. It’s almost but not quite a buzz.

A frayed transmission-to-body ground strap was found and replaced. (It seemed odd that this strap would be frayed.)

The original starter was tested, and it was okay. The battery was load-tested and it was okay.

The original starter was re-installed. Still no crank/no start with the “fast click,” even when hooked up and using the “start/fast charge” setting on my battery charger.

The new starter was re-installed, and after jump-starting it and attempting to crank it 3 or 4 times, it started! It started another ~2 dozen times, and then suddenly it wouldn’t crank or start again. When it wouldn't start, the “fast click” was present as before.

The battery-to-transaxle and body ground strap was found to be loose on the transaxle end. It was removed, inspected, cleaned up, and correctly re-installed. No change - still no crank/no start.

There are no DTCs present. There are no pending DTCs.

There are no blown fuses.

Immobilizer: when inserting the key and turning the ignition switch on (position II), the light will illuminate for ~2 seconds and then go out. It does not flash. This is correct operation per the owner’s manual. After turning the ignition switch off and removing the key, the “green key” immobilizer light flashes 5 times. My totally functional 2008 Odyssey does exactly the same thing, so I think the immobilizer is operating properly and without faults that would keep the starter from cranking.

It is also my understanding that if there was an immobilizer issue, the car would crank - but it won't even do that.

Even so, the ignition switch wiring harness has been replaced.

Where should I go next?

Many thanks in advance
Having the same problem sometimes it crank sometimes the light want show at all wat was your problem
 
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