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:surprise:
While driving normally on local streets the car's engine "QUITS". The first indication is the fuel gauge drops to zero and the Green "KEY" Immobilizer System Indicator is lit. After gliding to the side of the road, I put the car in PARK and restart the car, and off I go. This first happened over a YEAR ago, then about 6 months ago. More recently it happens about every 10 days. Yesterday my Code reader displayed: P1676 "FPT DR Signal Line Failure" (from the manual).
Today two miles from my home the car quit three times. The Code reader displayed "NO CODES"
I checked my spark plugs. DENSO 100,000 milers, which were changed 30,000 miles ago and were Good. Air cleaner clean.
137,000 miles. There were NO other indications: Warning lights, indicators, or engine roughness at any of these incidents.
I hesitate to throw parts at it (most are very expensive) as a DIY guy. And forget bringing it to a dealer. The costs would most probably exceed the car's value .
Luckily we have another car, so this car can sit in my drive TILL????:surprise:
 

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I would try other kinds of code reader to see if it got some codes.
 

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:surprise:
While driving normally on local streets the car's engine "QUITS". The first indication is the fuel gauge drops to zero and the Green "KEY" Immobilizer System Indicator is lit. After gliding to the side of the road, I put the car in PARK and restart the car, and off I go. This first happened over a YEAR ago, then about 6 months ago. More recently it happens about every 10 days. Yesterday my Code reader displayed: P1676 "FPT DR Signal Line Failure" (from the manual).
Today two miles from my home the car quit three times. The Code reader displayed "NO CODES"
I checked my spark plugs. DENSO 100,000 milers, which were changed 30,000 miles ago and were Good. Air cleaner clean.
137,000 miles. There were NO other indications: Warning lights, indicators, or engine roughness at any of these incidents.
I hesitate to throw parts at it (most are very expensive) as a DIY guy. And forget bringing it to a dealer. The costs would most probably exceed the car's value .
Luckily we have another car, so this car can sit in my drive TILL????:surprise:

You have an electrical problem of some sort. Tracing this will require a much more sophisticated device than a simple code reader.

You are not going to be able to fix this yourself. Many simple auto shops wont be able to do so either. It requires a $1000 scan tool and a good knowledge of Honda's controls system.

For an example of someone who knows how to root these sort of issues out, watch a few of YouTube South Main Auto mechanic Eric O's controls fixes.

This is a safety issue. Either fix it or crush it. You should not be driving it. You could kill someone.
 

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Totally agree with @Astrobuf, it's electrical issue. But I don't think it's so much expensive just to diagnose the problem, try to ask at some small local auto repair station.
 

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Acuraworld Junior Member
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:surprise:
While driving normally on local streets the car's engine "QUITS". The first indication is the fuel gauge drops to zero and the Green "KEY" Immobilizer System Indicator is lit. After gliding to the side of the road, I put the car in PARK and restart the car, and off I go. This first happened over a YEAR ago, then about 6 months ago. More recently it happens about every 10 days. Yesterday my Code reader displayed: P1676 "FPT DR Signal Line Failure" (from the manual).
Today two miles from my home the car quit three times. The Code reader displayed "NO CODES"
I checked my spark plugs. DENSO 100,000 milers, which were changed 30,000 miles ago and were Good. Air cleaner clean.
137,000 miles. There were NO other indications: Warning lights, indicators, or engine roughness at any of these incidents.
I hesitate to throw parts at it (most are very expensive) as a DIY guy. And forget bringing it to a dealer. The costs would most probably exceed the car's value .
Luckily we have another car, so this car can sit in my drive TILL????:surprise:
I have a 99TL and had the same problem. To repair I replaced the ignition switch. Picked one up from Advance Auto Parts for around $50. Haven’t had a problem since. This video shows the switch. The top screw can be reached so you don’t have to break it like the guy in video does.
 
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