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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is my first post, i was referred here and am confident this will be very helpful. Thank you in advance for your advice guys.

I am attempting to install a 1000watt MONO Amp ([email protected]) with one Kicker SoloBaric-12L7 in a custom enclosure. I love the current STOCK ACURABOSE that is in the car and do not wanna rip it out, especially the head unit. How can I go about doing this with optimal SOUND QUALITY in mind? Where do you recommend i RUN the POWER WIRE and REMOTE TURN ON? Any other tips or pointers would be very appreciated. Thanx for reading.

ps-Thanks Mr. Fortner for the tip to come here :boink:
 

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CaughtInTheAc!

I am glad you came here, I didn't want to seem like a jerk being like "Well I only talk on forums." It is just that there are a few RL people and a bunch of TLers who have upgraded stereos. Of the RL'ers I think someone put a JL 6w2 along with completely upgraded focal speakers all powered by auxilary amps, juiced_RL also has a pretty sweet sound setup, but he replaced the head with a flip-screen LCD.

But I did what I think you want to do... add a subwoofer to compliment the stock bose speakers, so you dont have to depend on the speakers to reproduce any bass... resulting in a much cleaner sound.

But anyway... the good news is that I did not mess around at all with the dash. Everything I did was throught the bose amp in the back of the car. Now to tap into this you cannot just buy a simple line-out wiring harness, like something crutchfield would carry (I mean maybe they would, but it is definately a special-order item.) I got one from Tsunami, I am not sure if anyone else make them. Cost $45.
1. take out the plastic screws in the carpetting on the back wall of the trunk, the wall that has the tunk pass-through on it
2. on the bottom right, directly behind the back right passenger seat you will see a the back bose amp
3. from this you can directly splice in the tsunami line-out adapter, it is like installing the wiring harness on an aftermarket head-unit, you can also use the blue wire coming off the amp as the remote turn on lead for your amp

Really the only things you have to do is run the power wire from the battery (which is always a pain in the ass) and maybe a bass-boost knob (if you have one). The good thing is that there is a big channel down the right and left side of this car (take off the plastic door stills) and run the wires there. I ran 4 gauge wire and a phone cable, so there is definately space.
 

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Welcome and Good Luck

danfortner is all over this one. I did not want to mess with the Bose I hate it. so I looked at my car one day and said it's time to strip. There is plenty of room under the door siles. I a 0awg and 10 16 awg wires down the drivers side. since the master unit for my deck is were the stock amp was I have a set of RCA's running to the dash for the Epicenter and from the Epicenter to the sub amp. Plus video RCA's all on the passenger side. Plus the other 0 awg I have running on the driver side of the tranny hump and the 10 wire cable for my switch box. There is a ton of room in the RL for wires. Good luck on the install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What would the difference be if i were to tap one of the rear speaker wires? Attach a Line out converter.. SPEAKER WIRE to RCA and plug straight to the amp?
 

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ok I think that would also work.

I just assumed that tapping directly into the bose amp would give me a cleaner, stonger signal.

But since your sub is more SPL and mine is more SQ, it would probabbly work out the same (not noticing if there was any additional noise.)
 

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CaughtInTheAc said:
What would the difference be if i were to tap one of the rear speaker wires? Attach a Line out converter.. SPEAKER WIRE to RCA and plug straight to the amp?
okay, audio wiring is not my strong suit, so no laughing :D

I hate wiring cause it seems that almost anything you do will give you noise and adding an amp usually means amplifying that noise... yuck.
for the least interference, I would go juiced_rl's route of rewiring everything, but I would imagine that this could take a lot of time.

personally, if you aren't planning to upgrade, head unit wise, then I like dan's method of tapping into the existing bose signal.

when you say "one of the rear speakers" do you mean the subwoofer? cause you probably shouldn't take your signal from one of the rear deck speakers.

what worries me about tapping one of the rear deck speakers is that the signal is already split into left and right stereo. so if the audio mixer, of the music you are listening to, decided to put all the bass signal on the channel you didn't use, then there would be no bass to boost... and your amp and subwoof setup would be useless for that song. also tapping one side will diminish that signal and you might find yourself messing with the balance and fader to compensate.

also if for some reason, if the bose system in the car is sending an equallizer/crossover signal to the rear deck speakers then you will not have much bass to boost here either. however, from my limited experience, car manufacturers usually send the full specturm to the speakers, so this particular issue may not be a problem... if there is any signal blocking it is usually done at the speaker with inexpensive capacitors.

also amplifying the entire spectrum is probably not needed if all you want is sub in the trunk... why make your amp and sub do extra work producing highs? the extra work may make your sub less efficient at making bass. a crossover is probably the best bet so you can set where you want yor crossover point to drop the higher part of the spectrum. you could put in an induction loop (a coil of wire with a specific number of turns) to drop those highs. some stereo shops that know the theory of what they are doing (not just installing the componets that manufacturers sell) may sell or make these coils. they are made to drop higher signals at roughly specified frequencies. this is nice because you don't have to purchase an expensive crossover to just have it do that one thing. while you are at it, you can put capacitors on all your other speakers to block the base signal. since you got the sub doing that duty. I think places like crutchfield sell things called "bass blocker" that are essentially just labeled capacitors.

typically, I have found that people like to tap of the deck speakers because they don't want to mess with taking things apart. if you don't want to take apart anything in the car to find the car's sub signal, and you don't want to just tap one side (one deck speaker) theoretically, you can try to tap both sides of the rear deck speakers by tapping the "plus" wire from one side and tapping the "minus" wire from the other and gettting your one signal... it should have both left and right in it (essetially a mono signal). I don't know how well this does with amplification. If your amp is rca-style line in only, then you would have to try the line out converter, but, again, I have no idea how this will sound. :D this method is usually reserved for wiring a single sub to a stereo amp.
 

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From my experience just getting a line out converter does not work. Just like trying to put a new speaker with the stock wires it does not work. You also need to get a Bose interface module. I would go to your local stereo installer and ask them what you need to do it. And buy the products.
 

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Juiced_RL said:
From my experience just getting a line out converter does not work. Just like trying to put a new speaker with the stock wires it does not work. You also need to get a Bose interface module. I would go to your local stereo installer and ask them what you need to do it. And buy the products.
yes... good advice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
danfortner said:
Everything I did was throught the bose amp in the back of the car. Now to tap into this you cannot just buy a simple line-out wiring harness, like something crutchfield would carry (I mean maybe they would, but it is definately a special-order item.) I got one from Tsunami, I am not sure if anyone else make them. Cost $45....
you can directly splice in the tsunami line-out adapter, it is like installing the wiring harness on an aftermarket head-unit, you can also use the blue wire coming off the amp as the remote turn on lead for your amp

All i would need to do is buy this special Tsunami adapter according to Dan and it should do the job. Some of you guys say it wont work if you tap the back speakers with a reg. LOC... meaning IT JUST DOESNT WORK =or= it produces sub-par results?

if you're still out there DAN- do you have the model number of that Tsunami product?

`ty
 

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Hi caught in the ac, loc's will work but you will not get the best sound quality. If you take the signal from the rear speaker or any other speaker in the system, you will just be amplifing a sound thats already amplified. This will produce unwanted noise such as engine whine and humming.

For the best sound quality you should tap the sound directly from the back of the radio, before it goes into the factory amp with good rca cables only. There will be no need for L.O.C's and you will be amplifing a cleaner signal this way.

Trust me on this one, I have tried L.O.C.'s that cost from $30 to $150 and they all reproduced noise. It was only after I ran a set of inter-connects(rca) directly from the back of the radio that I was able to get a noise free system. Now the only noise I have is the rattles from the bass which I have re-ajusted several times by turning down the amps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
ty daddy ;)

as stated above i would try to avoid going to the back of the radio... so from wat you are saying- i should tap the signal AT the STOCK AMP before amplification...

from the STOCK headunit, RCA cables run towards the amp?
and its that point that i should be attaching the inter-connect RCAs?

also, if i do this, dont i still need a low pass filter before i plug into the Sub Amp?
 

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You stated you wanted "optimal sound quality", so yes tap in before factory amplification with out the use of the l.o.c's. As far as low pass filter, your amp should have all the low pass filter's built right into it. By the way what kind of amp are you using?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
yes i have filters on my amp sorry...
Audiovox Prestige 1500D (1000watt)
going to use either one L7 12 in custom vented/sealed (havent decided) or go simple with a handmedown JENSEN KS2410BP Bandpass ( 2 10's in a 4th order 750max)- honestly im afraid the L7 will over power the STOCK BOSE system.

ps im shopping for WIRES/Fuse etc. any suggestions... i just wanna hook up my amp. (4guage)

thanx again...
 

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4 guage wires will do fine for your install. As far as the L7 over powering your bose system, all you have to do is adjust the gains and the filters to match level of the bose system it's that simple.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
YES TY AGAIN, BUT IF IM GONNA adjust the gains to almost less than MIDWAY i probably will never use my subs to their potential, so im thinking $210 for an L7 is not a good choice.
wat do u guys feel?

also, was just wondering WHERE i could get my wires if any1 has any rec. websites or places.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
i plan to use this OEM Interface Adapter - Peripheral VENREM or Peripheral VENDETTA - to get my RCA outs.
Can i connect this AT the stock amp located in the rear seat?
Is it as easy as splicing into the lo level input wire coming FROM the stock HU to the stock AMP? Again, I want to avoid pulling out the FRONT CONSOLE.

link to the adapter = http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/PERVENREM

thanx.guys.
 

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well, I have no experience with that adapter. :(


At any rate, if you get to the bose amplifier in hte back you will have acess to all the speaker outs from the head unit... do what you will to it... :D

to get to the bose amp... just remove the rear seat (lift seat bottom and unhook, remove headrests, remove two bolt from seat back near headrest ad four bolts near seat back bottom, pull seat back out) and the three mounting bolts on the amp and the amp should slide out. the amp is basically located behind the rear passenger seat back.



once you get acess to the bose amp, you can use the attached scan to make sense of the wires...


Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Gracias mis amigos
i ordered the interface adapter already... im assuming all i will need to find are the signal wires FROM The HU to the AMP...
now to add the adapter ... would the best method be just stripping some insulation from the org. wire and tapping into it.. instead of CUTTING the actual wire?

this is it...
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/PERVENREM
any secrets?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
*UPDATE* AFTER PULLING OUT THE REAR SEAT AND CHECKING ALL OVER FOR THIS SO CALLED BOSE AMP I DID NOT SEE ANYTHING THAT LOOKED LIKE ANY BOSE AMP DIAGRAM... SO I COULDNT HOOK UP THE ADAPTER ...

i did find a GREY BOX about the size of my palm behind the REAR PASSENGER SEAT and saw a BLACK BOX behind the REAR DRIVERside SEAT. When i pulled out the right rear dash speaker to try and follow its wires.. I thinkI THINK it was going back to the HU... ALSO, the rear speaker says ALPINE 30W ...

some1 help me... is there any hope?
 
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