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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey whats up Austin. I can never get you on AIM so I’ll post it here. I’ve been researching a little more for my alternator and I found another guy that I hear does good work. He can re-wind
my stock alternator to 200-220 amps for $239.00 without replacing the rectifier and leaving all the stock internals. Thats pretty cheap and its a lot of power, but is my alternator going to blow out prematurely? These are the options he sent me below. I still think Ohio Generator is the best deal but I’m not sure exactly what parts they replace.

200 amp rewind. $239.00 Use your factory alt and internals. No warranty

200 amp rewind with external rectifier Use only your case and regulator. $499.00 1yr warranty

200 amp rewind with external rectifier and adjustable regulator. $689.00 Only use your case. No internals used.
 

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96TL:
I'm sorry man :( Been busy or out the last few days...apologize for that...

I think your alternator should be fine with that kind of rewinding. 200A is not THAT bad. I don't know what parts Ohio Generator replaces either...I would definitely call them and ask, hell use this guy as a bartering tool ya know?

I am a little concerned about the no warranty thing. I mean...NO warranty? Does he trust his stuff that little? I'd talk to him about that for sure and see if he won't offer one. If he doesn't then definitely Ohio Generator is the better bet. I mean...they did good work, it's putting out what it should and is working fine...so :dunno: this other guy sounds sketchy for offering a no warranty rebuilt alternator....

Austin519
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
From what I hear over at www.elitecaraudio.com forums, this guy does good work. I asked him about the $239 deal and he said he doesnt offer a warranty because a lot of times the stock rectifier cant handle that power and blows out. So forget that. He offers a 1 year warranty with the other 2 deals though. I called Ohio Generator and Gus said they replace all the internals. I'm just gonna have to spend $400. I think $400 for only 90 amps more is a little expensive. Do you think thats enough for me? Hows your alternator holding up with the 2 800A2's? I'll have 2 1100A2's and an 800A4. Think my lights will still dim? I hate that so bad. :(
 

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96TL:
It feels that way but also realize you're almost doubling the output...so look at it in terms of a percentage. I don't have my stereo hooked up, STILL, because Streeteffectz kinda left me out in the cold...but I did hook up and run all my amps, my 2 800a2's, 2 400a4's, and 160a2...and I had no issues whatsoever. The 1100a2's each will pull probably 80A, and the 800a4 pulling 50. Don't be daunted by the numbers...just get about 3F or more of capacitance...you will need it with the 1100a2's as sub amps...

Austin519
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I was planning on putting a 1 farad cap on each 1100A2 and running a 0 guage cable from the battery to the trunk to a distribution block splitting into 3 4 guage wires. Then though the caps into the amps. The new Stinger caps are nice because they have a 2 4 guage power inputs/outputs and 2 4 guage ground inputs/outputs. So I should just go with Ohio Generator right? BTW, whats the best way to wire the W7s? I'm gonna bridge an 1100A2 into each one. Are they DVC?
 

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96TL:
The wiring setup sounds perfectly fine bro. Try to place those caps as close as possible to the amps from a wiring standpoint...and ground them to the same place. Although I'm sure you know, your post worried me so I want to make sure you know not to run the cap in series...run it in parallel. I would just go with Ohio Generator yes, I trust Tom and Gus. And it's a good product.

As for the w7's...do you have them already?? I didn't remember. If not make sure to order from Mike (forget if I told you he carries them again, insanely cheap). They're SVC 3 ohm subs...you'll have to just wire one amp to one sub and cool it with a fan like I am if it gets too hot...it should be able to run 3 ohm alright, just not 2 ohm.

Austin519
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I was gonna wire 1 cap for each amp individually. Not wire both caps in parallel with both amps. Know what I mean? The 4 guage goes from the dist. block, through the cap, into the amp.
 

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96TL:
I do know what you mean...but when you wire everything in parallel, from an electrical point of view you're not assigning one cap to one amp. Because that distribution block can be modeled as a wire for all it's worth so both amps and both caps are connected to the battery +. But yeah I know what you mean. Just make sure to get the caps as close to the amps as possible when you wire them.

Austin519
 
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