[Charlie Big Potato]

Ok, I decided to upgrade the audio in the bimmer and this is what I have:

Zapco SP7 EQ and Zapco SLX-4 Crossover:

Zapco Z300C2-SLX

Zapco Z200C2-SL

For the sub, I am have three options

• JL Audio Stealth boxes
• IDMAX12
• JL Audio 12W6v2

The Stealthboxes are the lowest on my list since they are IB and only 8". I
am a big fan of JL audio but I have heard good things about ID.

I am going balanced line the entire way through with the stock head unit
with a line converter. I think I can go balanced line with a factory HU
right?:dunno:

I had JL Audio XR components in my TL and loved them, so I think I am going
to go the same route JL Audio XR653-CS (3 way) for the front and XR650-CS
(coax) in the rear deck.

I want a total stealth system. I have evolved from the show aspect and am more concerned with overall sound quality rather than the booming bass that was present in the TL. Now I know that keeping the factory head unit, I will sacrifice some sound quality but I am accepting that fact.

With that said, I need to figure out the best placement for my sub and amps. I want to mount the amps to the bottom side of the rear deck. I don't think I will run into any heat or performance issues by doing this but I want to make sure, so Im thinking of putting a few cooling fans just to make sure.

If I get the stealthboxes, the sub placement wont be an issue but if I get either the JL or the IDMAX, I planned on placing the sub on the right hand side...(where the black plastic is) and glassing a sub so it is stealth. As an aside, if you guys look at the top of the trunk, you can see the JL stealthboxes and their placement.

What do you guys think?

Thanks

 

[Austin519]

Gray Goose 330Ci:
Hmmm....12w6v2 or IDMAX? On a sub per sub level IDMAX is gonna beat out a 12w6v2...but the 12w6v2 sure looks a heck of a lot better. I don't know if you care about system integration...but usually if I get components that are one brand, I like to keep that brand for the subs...so if I were you I'd get the w6v2 based on that. I assume that pic of the trunk isn't yours yes? That looks like a nice setup. I'm running exactly what you listed right now and love it. But to correct you the 650CS is a 2 way 6.5" component setup, and the 650CX is a 6.5" 2 way coaxial setup. I can't get you prices on the 12w6v2 (my JL guy can't sell those anymore)...but I can tell you the 653CS runs at about $250, the 650CS at about $200, and the 650CX at about $150 for me. If you don't mind the extra install work I would suggest 2 sets of 650CS in the front versus 1 set of 653CS. I say that because two 6.5" woofers will give you more bass than a 6.5" woofer and a 4" midrange. It'll also cost $150 more and will require custom kickpanels...but I don't know how in depth you're going, so I thought I'd throw that in. That's what I plan on doing.

Aside from that what advice do you need? I'd be happy to check prices for you if you like.

Austin519

 

[Charlie Big Potato]

I just wanted to make sure that I can run balanced line with the stock head unit.

I was considering running two sets of components but I wanted an entire stealth look. I think one set of either the 653CS or the 650CS for the front components should be ok for me. In an ideal world, I would love to run two sets of components but keeping the factory look is more important to me.

You're right about the 2-way coax, I got my model numbers confused. I am like you, all my speakers in the TL were JL audio and I loved them and I chose to integrate the speakers by brand. I think I will do the same. What do you think about a 12W3 instead of the 12W6v2 for my system?:dunno:

I also was worried about sub placement. Do you think it would be ok if I glassed the sub box in the left corner of the trunk where the black plastic tray is located in the picture? I want to get factory BMW carpet and cover the box with a total stealth look and not lose out on any trunk space.

Also, will it be ok the mount my amps upside down? I don't think I will have a problem but I wanted to check with you just to be sure. The reason I dont want to mount my amps on the floor of the trunk is because I put my seats down on a regular basis for tailgates and such and I dont want them in the way.

Thanks for your input!:beerchug:

 

[Austin519]

Gray Goose 330Ci:
The 12w3 is the second newest speaker after the v2's...designed after the old w6...it's a nice speaker but honestly doesn't compare to the v2's. If you CAN get a v2, get a v2...they're a phenomenal improvement over an already good speaker.

You can place the sub there...but it will be firing to the other side of the trunk...and you won't get nearly as much bass as you would if you had it fire facing the rear cabin or into the rear cabin. I can tell you that for sure. Why not put a w3v2 or w6v2 in a slim bandpass box and port it through the rear deck? You can use the space between the wheel wells (not a whole lot of space needed) and you'll get a big return on that type of setup.

As for mounting your amps upside down...they're solid state and will be fine either way. But what you should worry about is heat. Mounting an amp flat on the floor or upside down (aka it's large face parallel to the floor) means it gets very little air convection to cool it (assuming it has a passive heatsink, aka the case of the amp, like a Rockford Fosgate amp). Mounting them upside down makes it worse...not because they're upside down but because that mounting usually means you're mounting them to a trunk ceiling, rear deck etc, where all the hot air collects already. You may have to run a fan over it to cool it if it's a 400 or so watt amp, depending upon the model. Mounting the amp vertically is the best situation for cooling. But if your amp is one like the Phoenix Gold Titaniums or Kenwood Excelons...and has an internal fan...that won't be as much of a problem.

You have Zapco's...and the case is built like a passive radiator. I don't remember how hot the Zapco Z300C2-SLX's get...but if they are warm to the touch and you mount them parallel to the ground, they need to be cooled.

Austin519

 

[Charlie Big Potato]

Gray Goose 330Ci:
The 12w3 is the second newest speaker after the v2's...designed after the old w6...it's a nice speaker but honestly doesn't compare to the v2's. If you CAN get a v2, get a v2...they're a phenomenal improvement over an already good speaker.

You can place the sub there...but it will be firing to the other side of the trunk...and you won't get nearly as much bass as you would if you had it fire facing the rear cabin or into the rear cabin. I can tell you that for sure. Why not put a w3v2 or w6v2 in a slim bandpass box and port it through the rear deck? You can use the space between the wheel wells (not a whole lot of space needed) and you'll get a big return on that type of setup.

As for mounting your amps upside down...they're solid state and will be fine either way. But what you should worry about is heat. Mounting an amp flat on the floor or upside down (aka it's large face parallel to the floor) means it gets very little air convection to cool it (assuming it has a passive heatsink, aka the case of the amp, like a Rockford Fosgate amp). Mounting them upside down makes it worse...not because they're upside down but because that mounting usually means you're mounting them to a trunk ceiling, rear deck etc, where all the hot air collects already. You may have to run a fan over it to cool it if it's a 400 or so watt amp, depending upon the model. Mounting the amp vertically is the best situation for cooling. But if your amp is one like the Phoenix Gold Titaniums or Kenwood Excelons...and has an internal fan...that won't be as much of a problem.

You have Zapco's...and the case is built like a passive radiator. I don't remember how hot the Zapco Z300C2-SLX's get...but if they are warm to the touch and you mount them parallel to the ground, they need to be cooled.

Austin519

Well I don't want to sacrifice trunk space, so the reason for the fiberglass into the side of the car...see the below pic, but mine is going to be on the other side. He is using a 10 in that picture, so I don't know if I will be able to fit a 12 in there, although the left side of the trunk is a bit bigger.

I am going to use cooling fans for sure.

Can you comment on using balanced line with a stock receiver? Also what is the best quality line converter to use? I think I need two of them correct? I need one for the sub amp and one for the mids and highs.

 

[Austin519]

Gray Goose 330ci:
I can understand not wanting to sacrifice trunk space...I doubt you'll be able to fit any nice 12 in a space on the side of your trunk. 10 is about as high as you can go, and you'll be stuck with a sealed box probably too.

As for commenting on using balanced line with a stock receiver...I assume you have a 330ci? Tell me what exactly you want me to comment on. I mean...if you take an unbalanced line, covert it to a balanced line, then run that low output signal to your amp, it'll be a lot easier to use a noise reducer (you'll get a lot more out of it) than with an unbalanced line. Also a balanced line isn't going to pick up noise as easily.

I can assume your receiver isn't going to output a balanced line signal, so you'd need a balanced line converter, and a balanced line receiver (unless you amp takes a balanced line input, which I doubt).

If you're worried about picking up noise...definitely do that. Or if you've tried it already and have picked up noise...you can add the converter and receiver in. But if you're not picking up noise, or don't know, I'd wait and see...it's just two more things to buy and just two more things in the signal path.

I don't think I can give you a best quality line converter (you mean balanced line converter right? Not line out converter). You will need two yes if you're doing your stereo mid/high signal and the sub signal. So two converters, two receivers. Or I guess you could just convert the whole signal to balanced line, split it amongst all the amps you're running it to, and have receivers on each end. That means you'll only have to buy one converter...though there won't be a huge price difference.

You are looking for something like this right?
http://www.sounddomain.com/shop/item.pl?sku=HIFBLD1P

Austin519

 

[Austin519]

Gray Goose 330ci:
If you want to know what I'd do ...though you probably won't...I'd build my own...

Converter (Transmitter):

Receiver:

Austin519