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FYI - V1 hardwire how-to
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I dont understand why ANYONE would want to pull a fuse to slip in a wire onto the fuse blade when right there on the fuse block are 4 power connectors provided by ACURA for accessories.
All you would need to is connect to the red wire of the V1 a female spade connector and insert it into the power connection on the fuse block.
They actually give us, 1)continous power, power at all times, not needed for the V1 2) power in accessory mode, where you have power in the on position, and in accessory mode 3) power in run only, and 4) power only when the headlights are on.
There isnt any reason (not that I can see) where anyone needs to cut into any power wire, tap any fuse, unless they are installing power amps, then you go battery direct.
Always ground where ACURA has a ground connection, that way you avoid ground loops, and you have a more direct ground, since the chassis is designed with that in mind.
All you would need to is connect to the red wire of the V1 a female spade connector and insert it into the power connection on the fuse block.
They actually give us, 1)continous power, power at all times, not needed for the V1 2) power in accessory mode, where you have power in the on position, and in accessory mode 3) power in run only, and 4) power only when the headlights are on.
There isnt any reason (not that I can see) where anyone needs to cut into any power wire, tap any fuse, unless they are installing power amps, then you go battery direct.
Always ground where ACURA has a ground connection, that way you avoid ground loops, and you have a more direct ground, since the chassis is designed with that in mind.
Whoa, I've just noticed an alarming fact about that installation: The V-1 appears to be connected directly to the battery without a fuse! That means instant fire if you ever short your power cord.
I don't know if I'm right, but the terminals towards the rear of the vehicle are the ones that are protected, I think. You can easily check this by unplugging the fuse, then probing with a voltmeter. The terminal that never gets powered up would be the one that's protected.
In addition, I'd recommend you use fuse #8 (4th from the top on the rightmost column) instead, which is rated at 7.5 A and is powered when the key is in the ACCESSORY and ON positions. Use the terminal towards the rear of the vehicle (that's the one that's fuse protected).
I actually insert an additional 1 A inline fuse from the 7.5 A fuse to further restrict the amount of current that my BEL 950 installation may draw. 30 A (or even 7.5 A) is an awful lot of current to cruise down those skinny wires.
Here's an image from my foglight install pic. The yellow wire leading to the 4th fuse from the top (the one below the red circle) feeds a 1 A inline fuse, which leads up the A-pillar to power my BEL 950. Notice how skinny the ground return wire is!
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I don't know if I'm right, but the terminals towards the rear of the vehicle are the ones that are protected, I think. You can easily check this by unplugging the fuse, then probing with a voltmeter. The terminal that never gets powered up would be the one that's protected.
In addition, I'd recommend you use fuse #8 (4th from the top on the rightmost column) instead, which is rated at 7.5 A and is powered when the key is in the ACCESSORY and ON positions. Use the terminal towards the rear of the vehicle (that's the one that's fuse protected).
I actually insert an additional 1 A inline fuse from the 7.5 A fuse to further restrict the amount of current that my BEL 950 installation may draw. 30 A (or even 7.5 A) is an awful lot of current to cruise down those skinny wires.
Here's an image from my foglight install pic. The yellow wire leading to the 4th fuse from the top (the one below the red circle) feeds a 1 A inline fuse, which leads up the A-pillar to power my BEL 950. Notice how skinny the ground return wire is!
Drivers under dash fuse block, interior side, there are 4 connectors top left, each is a single spade connector, they are arranged 2 top, and below them are the other two, each is slightly at an angle to each other.
so as you are looking at the fuse block from under the dash, the connectors are top left corner.
so as you are looking at the fuse block from under the dash, the connectors are top left corner.
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My hardwire kit came with an in-line fuse daverman, and I used it - did yours not come with one? 
And Sotiri - I'm looking both at daverman's pic and the one I used in the DIY and I am not seeing these connectors. Also - where is a ground used by the factory in that area?
And Sotiri - I'm looking both at daverman's pic and the one I used in the DIY and I am not seeing these connectors. Also - where is a ground used by the factory in that area?
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I did mine just like that and it was very easy.
The problem with the pic is that there is another side to that fuse block. We are looking at the exterior side of the block, if you get under the dash, and look at it from the interior side, there are other connectors and plugs.
By looking at the pic, take note of the (from the top) the 7.5 fuse, the 15 (upsidedown) fuse, below that, the 7.5, and next to that, the 30 amp fuse.
On the other side of the block, practally behind those fuses are the spade connectors for the accessories.
By looking at the pic, take note of the (from the top) the 7.5 fuse, the 15 (upsidedown) fuse, below that, the 7.5, and next to that, the 30 amp fuse.
On the other side of the block, practally behind those fuses are the spade connectors for the accessories.
We're not compromising the electrical integrity of the car by inserting those (very thin) wires behind the fuses! I agree that the spade connectors are the way to go, but inserting wires in the fuse block has been done for decades now. I think it's still very safe if done correctly.sotiri said:
You are. If any short should develop from that tap, since a spade connector is provided, you void any chance to claim it was a factory defect.
There is also a reason why the factory seperates circuits from other ciruits, one is to prevent electrical interference, and the other is to manage electrical load distrubition.
Since the taps are provided (right behind where you are tapping) and you now know that they are there, anyone not using them is just plain lazy.
There is also a reason why the factory seperates circuits from other ciruits, one is to prevent electrical interference, and the other is to manage electrical load distrubition.
Since the taps are provided (right behind where you are tapping) and you now know that they are there, anyone not using them is just plain lazy.
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Sotiri,
I appreciate the info - I'll *try* to take a picture of the backside of the fuse panel as you suggest - it may be a much better idea to hardwire it to there. Admittedly, I used a gentleman from another forum's base for mine and haven't had a problem so haven't seen a need to change it. However, it does concern me that the possibility exists as you state it for us to have a short and have to then foot the bill for some (expensive) electronics. I have two questions for you:
1) If a short were to develop on that location, what could it potentially damage?
2) Any idea why Acura doesn't advertise these connectors in the manual?
I appreciate the info - I'll *try* to take a picture of the backside of the fuse panel as you suggest - it may be a much better idea to hardwire it to there. Admittedly, I used a gentleman from another forum's base for mine and haven't had a problem so haven't seen a need to change it. However, it does concern me that the possibility exists as you state it for us to have a short and have to then foot the bill for some (expensive) electronics. I have two questions for you:
1) If a short were to develop on that location, what could it potentially damage?
2) Any idea why Acura doesn't advertise these connectors in the manual?
I will also try to get pic from my car, (new dig camera, minolta 7hi cant wait to start using it) but it snowed here in Chicago, so I may not get a chance.
Damage could be melted block, or just blown fuse. It depends on the quality of connection and which fuse you tap on to.
I like the connections provided by acura because I can wire it to the ACC or RUN ONLY, this way I control when the V1 runs.
I dont know why its not in the manual however it is in the Helms manual, and there isnt any reason for guys like us who like to mod not to have the manual.
$100 is a small price to know how the car is put together, so that we can mod without damaging it, and it helps to spot where you can find a new mod.
Damage could be melted block, or just blown fuse. It depends on the quality of connection and which fuse you tap on to.
I like the connections provided by acura because I can wire it to the ACC or RUN ONLY, this way I control when the V1 runs.
I dont know why its not in the manual however it is in the Helms manual, and there isnt any reason for guys like us who like to mod not to have the manual.
$100 is a small price to know how the car is put together, so that we can mod without damaging it, and it helps to spot where you can find a new mod.
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