[JohnnyMc]

I have worked on cars for years, so I know my way around the garage. However I can't believe I made this mistake...

I recently bought a 2000 Acura RL, for my son who will be headed back to college in a few weeks. And I washed the engine without it running, as I was afraid it might be too hot from driving it..

Of course I got the classic rough idle when I cranked it back up and the total lack of power.

BTW I pulled the codes they are: P1201-1202-1203 and P0300 (which seem to be misfire codes).

Here is what I have done to try and remedy the problem:

I Pulled all the coil packs and dried them off with a towel and air compressor - twice.

Checked the resistance between the terminals on each coil pack. They each came in between .09 and 1.0 which is spec.

I have replaced all the spark plugs with the identical kind that were in the car NGK Iridium's (as a few looked pitted at the base when I pulled them)

I have disconnected dried with compressed air and reconnected all the wiring modules that make sense under the hood.

After all this it runs a little bit better, it idles nicely until it drops down to around 700 rpm and then is starts sounding and running a little rough. When I press the accelerator to get it up to around 1200 rpm it really starts to sound rough, like it wants to stall, but if I rev it past that it sounds fine. When I take it for a drive it's very sluggish and hesitant to around 15 to 20 mph until I punch it and then it takes off with no issue.

However something is not right... what I am I missing? is it the coil packs after all even though they seem to test okay? or is there a sensor or connection that is causing this? I have to imagine it's electrical, and of course the check engine light has been flashing away.

Thank you in advance for any suggestions!

 

[C25A1guy]

There is definetly still some water somewhere. Did you try running the engine for a while at operating temp for a while to see if you can get more evaporation going from the depths of the engine?

 

[JohnnyMc]

Hey Dean,

I just saw your reply, yes that did the trick. I took it out on the interstate and after a few miles I exited, pulled into a parking lot and came to a complete stop. When I resumed there was no sputtering or loss of power like before and it's been running like a charm since.


Thanks!

 

[C25A1guy]

Awesome!

 

[JohnnyMc]

Hey Dean,

It's John can you possibly shed any light on this issue?

It's from the same recently purchased 2000 RL as above. The check engine light is on and when I pulled the codes they came up as the following:

P0141 (65) Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Sensor 2) - I have replaced the O2 sensor, cleared the code and it has not reappeared.

P0401 (80) Exhaust Gas Recirculation Insufficient Flow - This is the problem child, here is what I have done so far to fix this issue:

1 - Pulled and cleaned the EGR sensor, clear the code and within a few miles it came back on.

2 - Thus I replaced the EGR sensor... cleared the code and within a few miles it came back on.

3 - I have since Pulled the EGR, removed the copper tube from the bottom of the base that goes to the backside of the manifold to inspect and clean. Per discussions on the board I was expecting it to be clogged, however to my surprise it was perfectly clear.

4 - I then addressed my attention to the port hole that the EGR tube goes to on the Manifold, it was pretty clogged, but not with the hard carbon build up the I have read about, it was clogged with a blackish wet goop, almost like what you would find when cleaning out the catch pan of a gas BBQ grill. So I spent a good 20 minutes cleaning all the would come out with a drill bit (great advice). And also did a 1/3 can Sea Foam treatment through the brake booster line...

5 - I reassembled everything cleared the code and this time the check engine lighted stayed off when driving around for a good 30 -35 minutes... but it's back on again...
So I am back to square one... Have I missed any steps? The fact that the blockage that I removed from the Manifold was goopish versus solid, is that an issue or an indication of an alternate issue?

Also the EGR base has 2 holes that the gasket and EGR sit on, should air flow out of both these holes strongly when you rev the engine? I have strong flow out of the smaller round front one, and not much at all from the squarer back one closer to the firewall per say, even after the cleaning.

Thanks!

 

[C25A1guy]

Hey Dean,

It's John can you possibly shed any light on this issue?

It's from the same recently purchased 2000 RL as above. The check engine light is on and when I pulled the codes they came up as the following:

P0141 (65) Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Sensor 2) - I have replaced the O2 sensor, cleared the code and it has not reappeared.

P0401 (80) Exhaust Gas Recirculation Insufficient Flow - This is the problem child, here is what I have done so far to fix this issue:

1 - Pulled and cleaned the EGR sensor, clear the code and within a few miles it came back on.

2 - Thus I replaced the EGR sensor... cleared the code and within a few miles it came back on.

3 - I have since Pulled the EGR, removed the copper tube from the bottom of the base that goes to the backside of the manifold to inspect and clean. Per discussions on the board I was expecting it to be clogged, however to my surprise it was perfectly clear.

4 - I then addressed my attention to the port hole that the EGR tube goes to on the Manifold, it was pretty clogged, but not with the hard carbon build up the I have read about, it was clogged with a blackish wet goop, almost like what you would find when cleaning out the catch pan of a gas BBQ grill. So I spent a good 20 minutes cleaning all the would come out with a drill bit (great advice). And also did a 1/3 can Sea Foam treatment through the brake booster line...

5 - I reassembled everything cleared the code and this time the check engine lighted stayed off when driving around for a good 30 -35 minutes... but it's back on again...
So I am back to square one... Have I missed any steps? The fact that the blockage that I removed from the Manifold was goopish versus solid, is that an issue or an indication of an alternate issue?

Also the EGR base has 2 holes that the gasket and EGR sit on, should air flow out of both these holes strongly when you rev the engine? I have strong flow out of the smaller round front one, and not much at all from the squarer back one closer to the firewall per say, even after the cleaning.

Thanks!

I think you have a leak at the gasket site. YOu should feel no air coming out of the valve when the engine is revved. The holes I take are the circle and square port holes and not the bolt holes. This gasket leak I would suspect would also cause your P0401 code. I had a similar issue on my 87 Legend back in the day. What I did was have a few EGR gaskets on hand, made a block off plate for when I didn't have to smog for more power and a fresh Airtex valve for when smog check comes around.

 

[JohnnyMc]

Dean,

Correct.. the square and round holes are the one on the base that the EGR sensor sits on... then comes the gasket and then the EGR unit sits on top of that and bolts down. With the EGR unit removed... and when I rev the engine it sounds like and exhaust pipe with a hole it it as the hot air come up through the round hole but not the square hole... So are you thinking the air/exhaust is leaking out of the gasket sides and not being fully registered by the EGR unit?

 

[C25A1guy]

Think of it this way. One side is the hot side (straight from exhaust) and the other side is to plumb it back into the combustion chamber. The EGR Valve's job is to control how much and when those gasses return back to intake. So, yes, this should be an area that's sealed and with the EGR valve in place, you should not feel any air leaking or escaping.

 

[JohnnyMc]

Perfect explanation!

Thank you so much for your help!