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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys:

I decided to change the serpentine belt on my CSX and thought I'd share my process with any of you who might be interested.
K20Z2 engine.

The service manual indicates that the belt must be inspected for cracks/damage or excessive stretch on service "2".
Here's a pic of the stretch gauge which is indicating that this belt is still within spec. I painted the arrow black and the gauge orange for visibility, they are a bit difficult to see in a pic otherwise.

If you decide to change your belt, Honda wanted $60, Canadian Tire wanted $30, and these guys want about $13.
Pick whatever you think is right for you.

Getting the old belt off is fairly easy but plan ahead for getting the new one on, which is more challenging. The new belt will be quite tight and getting it over the last pulley while holding the tensioner back is the hard part.
A special tool is specified(YA9317) but you don't really need it if you're careful on installation.
Google the tool P/N and you'll find a few different solutions.
Here's a pic of what I did to add mechanical advantage to my 14mm wrench.

I recommend you jack up the front of the car, remove the right front wheel, and remove the crankshaft pulley access cover so as to get at the belt more easily. The cover fasteners are removed by prying out the center pin part way, and then pulling on the outer ring.
Here's a pic of the cover fastener positions(red), the crank pulley(yellow), and the dropped cover(purple).
Honda techs may have a trick for changing the new belt without the wheel removal but I don't know what it is, take your time, you're not working for flat rate.

Old belt off:
Hold the tensioner back all the way to its stop to peel the belt off the top idler, release the tensioner and pull the belt out from underneath.

New belt on:
Here's a diagram which shows how the belt is routed as well as the use of the special tool.

The tool allows you more mechanical advantage as it's longer than a stock 14mm wrench and maybe keeps more out of the way during installation.
Shove the new belt up from under the car towards the alternator pulley, loop it around the lower pulleys first.
Once it's routed properly around all but the top idler you're ready to release the tensioner and complete the job.
Be careful with your fake special tool, the tensioner stores a lot of energy and will release suddenly if your tool slips apart while you're trying to get the last bit of belt over the final pulley edge! Gloves and safety glasses are a good idea as well as rags on bodywork for if part of the tool goes flying.

Here is the tension gauge with the new belt on, it's now out of spec, on the high side. I'll check it again in 100 miles.

Here is the gauge after a quick run to town and back (~30Km). Just as I thought, the belt settled in to spec. fairly quickly.

I'd rate this procedure a 3 out of 10 as far as difficulty goes.

FEEDBACK would be great guys.
Comments and criticism also welcome.
Tips from the pros - priceless.
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