[Mike T.]

Does anyone know if non-rusting rotors (pad swept area) exist? You'd think with all the modern technology they could come up with something.

 

[guitarplayer16]

Most rotors have a zinc coating on them to prevent rust - StopTech, Powerslot, Brakemotive, etc.

 

[C25A1guy]

If you want a rotor that doesn't rust in the pad contact area, you're going to have to move away from iron rotors. That means you'll probably have to go with a one-off carbon rotor which is big time $$$$ (or you can go with a BBK w/ a carbon rotor option, but still big time $$$$)

 

[Mike T.]

If you want a rotor that doesn't rust in the pad contact area, you're going to have to move away from iron rotors. That means you'll probably have to go with a one-off carbon rotor which is big time $$$$ (or you can go with a BBK w/ a carbon rotor option, but still big time $$$$)

I checked a couple of the big aftermarket brake sellers and they both said that the rotors I want just don't exist and all rotors are cast iron (which rusts). Any coating will get worn off by the pads.

But I'm a semi expert on very hi-tech mountain bike disc brakes and ALL of those are made from stainless steel. But also they're stamped and ground from sheet stainless too so there's a big difference from car rotors. Maybe stainless steel can't be cast into the shapes of car rotors.

I guess I'm resigned to normal rusting rotors

 

[C25A1guy]

I think the problem with stainless steel would be issues with heat capacity and dissipation as well as cost (considering this is a very regularly replaced consumable item). Wouldn't just driving around the block remove said rust from the friction area?

 

[Mike T.]

I think the problem with stainless steel would be issues with heat capacity and dissipation as well as cost (considering this is a very regularly replaced consumable item). Wouldn't just driving around the block remove said rust from the friction area?

Oh yeah driving round the block gets rid of the thin daily surface rust but I'm looking at replacing rotors for the 2nd time (over two cars) due to deep corrosion on the back side.

 

[C25A1guy]

Back side as in the hub side or internals (cooling vane area)?

 

[Mike T.]

Back side as in the hub side or internals (cooling vane area)?

Back side as in the inside swept area.

 

[C25A1guy]

No clue then. On the RSX, extreme heat was always a good way to keep the rust at bay... but then we're talking about 800+ degrees rotor surface temps here.

 

[Mike T.]

No clue then. On the RSX, extreme heat was always a good way to keep the rust at bay... but then we're talking about 800+ degrees rotor surface temps here.

The car has only done 7000 miles per year in the almost two years I've had it (I got it at nearly 3 years old) so I think a lot of sitting with rust getting deeper & deeper is the cause.

 

[S2K2K4]

You can paint the rotors with some type of rust inhibiting paint then use the old pads to wear the paint off the pad contact area. If you're getting rust on the pad contact area while you're using the car regularly then you have some bigger issues cause the pads should clear off any rust in those areas regularly.

 

[rebelyell1191]

You need to try SP performance rotors. They have Zinc Plated and ZRC ZINC Coatings on their rotors that are far superior than most competition out there. The grey coating is the best because the entire rotors gets submerged in paint so its protected entirely. Once you hit the brakes the coating will be removed on the pad surface but thats ok because its usually everywhere else that rusts out early and causes early brake fade.