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Hello All -
My 2001 TL (174K) has been difficult to start and has a very rough idle after restarting (engine is at full temperature.) However, once I get into drive and pull away the the issue goes away. This does not happen after every restart. Cold starts seem to be just fine. Any suggestions on where to begin?

Thanks!
 

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Is the check engine light lit? And when you mention rough idle, is it low or does it jump from high to low idle repetitively?
 

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I don't recall the Check Engine light being on. However, I believe that it was on. The tach was fluctuating between 300-1100 RPM. The car shook as if one of the cylinders were not firing. Once the car is put into drive and moved forward 30 or 40 feet, the engine 'smoothed-out' and then ran normal.

Thanks for your help!
 

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This can be caused by something very simple: low coolant. The ECU directly monitors coolant temperature to adjust idle speed and mixture. If there's a pocket of air that's shifting around and the ECT sensor ends up in that pocket, this exact same thing will happen.

With the engine cold, start and run the car to see if any bubbles pop up in the radiator. If they do, add coolant or refill if it's low.
 

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I have identical problem with my 2000 tl ! Only when engine is warm and after turning the engine off and on several times. And every time it happens its harder to get it started,sometimes the engine light comes on but goes away later. I've been dealing with this for a year now. I've done some research ,is it possible that crank position sensor could be an issue? My coolant level is checked regulary so that's not it.
 

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I know the exact problem you guys are talking about.
I have a 2000TL & the original owner of the car have had this problem since it was new. The problem with my car has happen maybe 6 times in the almost 12yrs I have had it. It did it a few weeks ago & the car has 92,000 miles on it.
Acura dealer gave it a clean bill of health when they did spark plug change & Timing Belt/synthetic oil & a few other repairs like hood struts & headlight.
motor mount. The car has always been in good shape in general.
So the last time the car did this was 3 weeks ago. I drove about 3 miles in city early mourning 6:00AM not much traffic. Go to doctors office pharmacy to pick up meds for elderly mother. This was from a cold start-up outside temp about 50s. In pharmacy not more then 15mins car parked in underground garage, Car start up again fine just like from cold start engine running fine & normal. Stop at hospital pharmacy to pick up my blood pressure meds. 2nd trip other pharmacy is about 10min drive normal traffic moving city speed 25-35mph. Park in another garage 3rd level up open to outside. Car is off about 25-30 mins . When starting car to leave it will not start like it is flooded. After 2nd crank it starts but low rpms like said rough idle shaking. Move car about 20 feet out of parking space it then runs normal everything is fine. I did thi once when it was new but did not do it again for a few years. It had been a few years since this has happen. I remember the day it did it in 2007. We were going to pick up the new Honda Ridgeline truck & the TL did twice that day. I took it to the car wash something that I do not do often & it did it. Then it ran normal to home about 15min drive 25mph city speed. Went back out shortly after to renew drivers permit at DMV car okay to DMV. Park outside on street in DMV 40mins max Started car & the problem happen won't crank then rough idle when starts. Drive car a few feet & it runs fine, Like said it may have done it 6 times in the almost 12yrs I have had it. Fuel Injectors were checked once by dealer for other engine problem some years ago but this issue is tricky. If I can recall outside air temps may have been mild when problem comes up.
It may have been something about this on the old Aol ACURA TL .COM forum back in the 99 or 2000. I can not recall what it was but it may come back to me.
 

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They were calling the problem Heat Soak problems starting when the engine was warm. But this does not happen all the time when the engine is hot or warmed up. As I said I have had it maybe 6 or 7 times since I purchased the car new Dec of 1999. I had it happen a few weeks ago & it may have been as long as 2009 since it did it. I remember another time when this issue came up
from a cold start. I can not remember how long the car was on I may have gone down town but it was less then 40mins run time in normal city traffic. I then let somebody off sister or nephew. I the drove back uptown to Rite Aide for something. In that store no more then 15mins back out car started normal.
Went across street in car to Autozone for something no more then a 1000 feet to other parking lot. In Autozone 15mins. Started car back up would not start first time then when started rough idle like in other post.
A few feet to parking lot exit car is back to normal.
 

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Faulty crankshaft position sensor. I was told that this is probably the cause of the problem but never bothered to replace it since it doesnt happen so often
 

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Hey guys, my first post here.

I have had this exact same problem for some time now on my 2000 TL. It only happens when it is colder out as well. My son will have indoor baseball and I will sit in the car for awhile waiting. Then turn it off, go in to get him, come back and start it. Misfires and idles rough. Sometimes have to gas it to start. Always throws an engine light which is a misfire on all 6.

I replaced the EGR and totally cleaned the upper intake and MAF. I was going to get new coils to see if that helped but have not yet. Only happens a few times a year and I am not really worried about it too much.
 

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It is Heat Soak as FTM-1 stated. The fuel in the fuel rails vaporize, the hard start/stumbling/no start is caused because there is not sufficient fuel being supplied to the motor. This will soon go away once the vapor diminishes and is replaced by fuel. This is usually more common between seasons when gas stations are switching from summer to winter fuels or vise-versa, and the outside temperatures are changing as well. Example: December averaging 38 degrees outside, and having a randomly hot day around 50.

The fix is replacing the PCM and and fuel pressure regulator. This is pretty expensive. So my advice is when it does happen, cycle the key on/off/on/off/on/off, then attempt to start. This will cause the fuel pump to run in the same succession and will help eliminate the vaporized fuel.
 

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Nice trick Tim. This is something I do with all my cars since I got really used to highly modified vehicles that use external pumps so I'll usually turn the key to the on position until I hear the fuel pump shut off once it reaches pressure.

On my old Legend, I would also get the same symptoms, but it was due to injector o-rings going bad and all the fuel wasn't making its way into the combustion chamber.
 

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Interesting fact,mine started doing it after 175k as well
Funny you said that. My problems in my Acura TL 2000 happened at 181,000 miles. Same issue when the car warms up and I shut it off and try to start again in 5 mins it backfires and wants to stall unless I hold down the gas pedal. Once I get moving it's fine.
 

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Funny you said that. My problems in my Acura TL 2000 happened at 181,000 miles. Same issue when the car warms up and I shut it off and try to start again in 5 mins it backfires and wants to stall unless I hold down the gas pedal. Once I get moving it's fine.
Have you figured out the problem?
 
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