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Discussion Starter #1
I'm seeing a sporatic gas gage malfunction on my 2008 RDX. The gage works find as soon I fill up or add some gas but at some point later the gage will malfunction and go to Empty every time I start the car. And here is where it gets really strange. Immediately after I add a couple of gallons or fillup again it is fixed.......for a little while. The vehicle has done this several times. I can't get through a half a tank before it will malfunction. I've tried only filling the tank half full. After it fails I've tried to fix it by sloshing the gas around by swerving or pumping the brakes. But nothing will fix it other than adding at least a couple of gallons or more of gas. I tried adding only a half a gallon and that didn't work. Can any one tell me what is going on and what I can do to fix this. I'm hoping it doesn't need a new fuel pump because the price I got was over $400 and it has 2 pumps but only 1 has a fuel level gage.
Specifically, when the gage is working and I turn on the ignition the gage needle goes to the proper gas level. When the gage is malfunctioning and I turn on the ignition the gage goes all the way past full and then after a few seconds it falls to empty. Once I see this failure it continues to fail no matter how many times I start the car but then it is magically fixed as soon as I add some gas. I'm thinking the failures are mostly happening at initial start up when I turn the key on but, I'm not positive. A failure might be also happening while I'm driving. At first I thought the float was getting stuck above the full position and adding gas was knocking it back down. But, it even fails if I have the tank at half full. Also, the fuel level gage should be at the same position when I start the car when it fails as it was when I parked the car and it was working. Could the reostat on the fuel level float be going bad to cause this? Has anybody seen and fixed this problem before? I'm really baffeled. Please help. I do not think it is a fuse problem because that would not explain why adding gas always fixes it.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
New update on Strange Fuel Gage malfunction in RDX

I'm still having the strange fuel Gauge malfunction. But the vehicle did something unusual this morning. Instead of failing and reading empty incorrectly like I described in my earlier post. This time only, the gauge read close to empty but not all the way on empty even though I had recently filled up. Then a few minutes later the gauge was reading a little more than half full which is perhaps a correct reading. This is the first time the fuel Gauge has malfunctioned and then corrected itself. Normally when it reads on empty and the gauge shows it is empty, it will never correct itself until after I add gas or fillup the tank. So, I'm logging this new information in case this might help someone to diagnose my problem. I would appreciate any guidance anybody can provide on this problem. I'm not sure if I need to replace the fuel pump to get a new float sensor or is the problem in the computer.
This failure wouldn't be so aggravating were it not for the fact that when it fails and reads low fuel. that message replaces the Odometer. So, even if I write down the mileage when I fill up. I can't monitor the odometer to even know when should I add more gas because the Odometer isn't visible whenever the Low Fuel light is on. I really need some help on this problem please.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
This is update on a problem I posted a couple of years ago with the fuel gage on my 2007 Acura RDX. The problem with the fuel gage malfunction was caused by the Dash. Eventually the dash would flash while driving and eventually the dash lights stopped working. I had Acura install a new dash and the fuel gage resumed working correctly. I suspect the dash might have been damaged by some aux devices like a remote start and a radar detector that the previous owner had someone wire in and they seemed to splice into some line to the dash that may have caused some damage to the dash circuits. I'm guessing the after market devices that were wired in may have caused some current overload in the dash. It seems they probably did that to avoid pulling a new wire from the battery through the firewall which was probably the proper way that the additional devices should have been wired instead of splicing into a wire from the dash circuits.
 
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