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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I used the following instructions posted by eldevioso


If you have an aftermarket deck just run the RCAs down the other side of the car via pulling the panels. However, if you're running the stock deck and you don't want the stock sub you can do what I did.

PARTS:
RCA converter 20.00
Male plugs 1.00
Amp wiring kit 20.00 (walmart - Schoshe brand)

1) Run the batter cable thru firewall down the side of your car.

2) Buy a converter at a local stereo shop for $20.00. the converter takes teh signal and converts it to RCA output. Twist the 2 (+) wires together, and the 2 (-) wires together, and place a male connector on each one. The connector will look like the male version of the connectors running the (+) and (-) terminals on the stock sub.

3) Disconnect the speaker connectors from the stock subwoofer in the trunk.

4) Connect the male connectors from your converter to the female connectors that were connected to the stock subwoofer.

5) Connect the RCAs to your amp.

6) You can tap into a power line that goes into the stock sub amplifier (solid BLUE wire) which is located behind the back seat on the trunk wall on the passenger side. Then run from there thru the trunk wall, which will be open since you ahve to remove the seat to do it.

7) Tune your system and enjoy.

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i will post detailed pixs when i install the amp for the interior speakers.
 

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It's a very easy install, and the beauty is you simply unplug the hi/lo converter, and re-plug the stock sub, cut the power wires, and hide them and your car is 100% stock to sell....Glad to see you used it.

I'm definitely not a stereo expert by any means, and was wondering what you thought of your setup after doing that...My system sounds good and its pretty loud, but I think it's a little less than what I had anticipated. This could be due to the fact that I overestimated what my equipment was capable of, or something else.

I'm wondering, by doing the install as we have, if we aren't sending a somewhat distorted signal to the amp (after all, it is amplified by the stock amp, and then fed into the aftermarket amp). My thoughts are that I can't get as much performance as I had wanted out of my amp because it seems to distort at high volumes (don't get me wrong, it's still sounds great and gets very loud - I just thought it would go even further). If the signal IS distorted, it makes sense to me that my amp wouldn't be able to amplify it as much. What do you think? Are you experiencing the same thing with your setup, or is it performing exactly how you expected...

ALL-in-ALL though, this is by far a very simple install, with the least amount of modification necessary (only one cable tapped), and it does sound GREAT...as a note however, within the next week I will try to tap the signal from before the stock amp and compare the sound quality and level of the two methods, then I will post update....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
*****Sorry I couldn’t take pictures the digi cam is in the shop******

After a week of using the factory sub wires the only thing I noticed was when the stereo was turned down I would still get a good amount of response from the sub. The only thing I could come up with is that amp had a hard time distinguishing between the minor changes from the line signal.

Saturday night I installed my other amp, I ran two inline converters off the factory deck to my primary amp that powers the door speakers then ran my sub amp off the primary amp. To do this I took out the center console, driver seat, and back seat along with pulling all the carpet to one side of the car so I could do easy/good job running all the cabling.
The total install and reassembly took around 3 hours but if I was to do it again I’m sure I could knock off a good hour at least.

For some reason I’m now getting a good amount of hsssssssss through the door speakers and I’m not sure how to solve to problem. Other than the hssssss the “system” sound GREAT and sure beats the hell out the “Bose” system. When I got the car I thought the stereo sounded great but little did I know… All new speakers, sub, and amps make for a much better sound experience.
 

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Interesting. I'm glad to hear your system sounds good. I've read several times that the hiss can be bad ground, or running the signal and power wires too close, or maybe even a bad connection...other than that don't know too much....

Out of curiosity, how does your sub sound now that your sub amp is running thru your other aftermarket amp? Does it sound the same as it did b4 when you were getting the signal from the stock amp?

As for the low volume comment, I noticed the same thing...I attributed it to the fact that I had the stock speakers, and thought the sub just overpowered, even at low volumes. However, this might be more evidence of what I was thinking before.

Here's my current thought: at 3/4 volume, the stock amp could be reaching levels of distortion even though i only have my aftermarket amp set to 30-40%....If this is the case, I think this is a problem because now my aftermarket amp is getting a distorted signal instead of amplifying the signal itself until it (my aftermarket amp) caused the distortion. This in turn would prolly make my speaker sound as if it was maxing out cuz of the increased distortion even though my amp is low output....

Does that make sense to you, or am I just seriously off the mark? Let me know when you get the hsss resolved...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How does your sub sound now that your sub amp is running thru your other aftermarket amp?

The sub sounds good, I think it all depends on what level you cross it over at.

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Does it sound the same as it did b4 when you were getting the signal from the stock amp?

I think it sounds better now, my first amp is sending a better signal to the sub amp, and also my mids sound real good.

My first amp is set for mids and highs and the sub amp is set for lows so all together it sounds great.
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Does that make sense to you, or am I just seriously off the mark?
You may want to also try turning the gain down on your amp and see what you get.
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as for the hsssss, I think I will take a stab at the ground first, I made sure the power cable and rca's were not close together so who knows.
 

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Michelin Man said:
You may want to also try turning the gain down on your amp and see what you get.
Yeah, that's the whole problem...I already have the gain at like 30-40%. I was under the impression I should be able to turn it up more than that, but I could be wrong.
 

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I'm now on an aftermarket head.. exactly where do i run the RCA cabling to the amp?.. is it smarter to slope the driver's side..or passenger side? Thanks.
 

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As a follow up, I've tuned my system now and It hits HARD and sounds clean, well as clean as the stock mids/highs can sound....


I'm now on an aftermarket head.. exactly where do i run the RCA cabling to the amp?.. is it smarter to slope the driver's side..or passenger side? Thanks.
If you can get the rcas over to the passenger side, you can run them underneath the door panels. The panels pop off easily and go back on as easily and very cleanly. I ran my power wire from the engine bay, down the drivers side panel and it worked perfectly...however, Polyman ran the wires down the center of his car, I believe on the drivers side, as he took the seat out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I ran all my wires on the driver side of the car for what its worth. I still can't get that damn hsssss to stop, I spoke with an installer and he suggested turning down the gains on the amp and its still making the :bash: noise :bash: .....

Side note
My roommate just got his Focals installed in his car, GOD DAMN if those are not the best sounding speakers I have ever heard. Time to start saving for another new set of door speakers....
 

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Michelin Man said:


1) Run the batter cable thru firewall down the side of your car.

6) You can tap into a power line that goes into the stock sub amplifier (solid BLUE wire) which is located behind the back seat on the trunk wall on the passenger side. Then run from there thru the trunk wall, which will be open since you ahve to remove the seat to do it.
I'm thinking about using this method for my Amp and Sub Setup in the trunk. First you say to run the battery cable down the side of the car and then you say to tap the blue wire -- which one do I use?
 

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Re: Re: TL-S amp and sub install ***EASY***

jdb8805 said:
I'm thinking about using this method for my Amp and Sub Setup in the trunk. First you say to run the battery cable down the side of the car and then you say to tap the blue wire -- which one do I use?
He was saying for the main power to your amp, you have to run a cable from the battery, through the firewall, to your amp. This is standard procedure.

However, you can get your remote power source from the stock amplifier in your car. You have to remove the rear seat (both bottom and back portions), and you will see the amplifier on the far left hand side (assuming you're facing the rear of the car). You can wiretap the larger blue cable feeding into the stock amplifier, to run a wire from there to your remote power input on your aftermarket amp. Now you have your power inputs.

Then it's a matter of hooking up the converter to the speaker connectors (that were connected to stock sub). If you decide to do it, let me know and i'll guide you.

As a note, I ditched the convertor for the superior (wiretapping the signal wires feeding into the stock amplifier) method. But the converter method still sounds good, and requires much less work.
 

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Re: Re: Re: TL-S amp and sub install ***EASY***

As a note, I ditched the convertor for the superior (wiretapping the signal wires feeding into the stock amplifier) method. But the converter method still sounds good, and requires much less work.
Maybe i'm not understanding this right?
the stock amp is a mono/1chan amp right? (the door speakers are powered from the headunit?)

when you mean wiretapping wouldn't you just be cutting the input before the amp and feeding it to the aftermarket sub?

most of my thought and planning has been due to the fact that ive assumed the stock sub was a mono sub. is this right?
 

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Re: Re: Re: Re: TL-S amp and sub install ***EASY***

shogun said:
Maybe i'm not understanding this right?
the stock amp is a mono/1chan amp right? (the door speakers are powered from the headunit?)

when you mean wiretapping wouldn't you just be cutting the input before the amp and feeding it to the aftermarket sub?

most of my thought and planning has been due to the fact that ive assumed the stock sub was a mono sub. is this right?
Sorry it took a while to reply. Yes you're right on the money. The signal to the amp is mono, and the door speakers are powered by the head unit. When I say "wiretap" I mean using a type of connector called a wiretap, that allows you to take an existing wire and splice in a second wire without cutting the original. So now you have two functioning wires, with the second (new) wire "piggybacking" off the original.

I chose to "wiretap" so that I would leave the functionality of the stock system intact. By not cutting the input to the stock sub-amp I am able to disconnect and remove my aftermarket amp, and then reconnect the stock subwoofer, and the system will be 100% stock again (useful for when I sell my car). That's all I was saying. Many people do in fact cut the wire as you mentioned. I chose to wiretap, out of my personal preference.
 
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