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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, newbie here.

My mother has a 1997 TL

Cranks fine and fires up immediately but then dies just as quick. If I pump the throttle as I hear it fire, I can catch it and keep it running but I can't let it idle by itself right away. I will hold the idle up just a bit and gradually let it off and it will hold. I can then drive it with NO evidence of anything wrong and NO codes.

Had a slightly similar episode with my Dakota pickup only it wouldn't fire at all unless I held the throttle open a bit. A new Idle Air Control (IAC) solved that.

If it were an EGR, PVC, injector or fuel pump issue, wouldn't that show up when I drive it after I get it started?

Any ideas.
 

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On the occasions when it won't start.......when you turn the key to the ON position, do you hear the buzz of the fuel pump priming? Do you notice if the car won't start after it's been in the sun and the interior is warm, versus first thing in the morning?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
On the occasions when it won't start.......when you turn the key to the ON position, do you hear the buzz of the fuel pump priming? Do you notice if the car won't start after it's been in the sun and the interior is warm, versus first thing in the morning?
Thanks for the response.

I will check on those issues and post back.

If it runs fine after I "catch" it, why would it be a fuel delivery issue? Wouldn't that affect the performance at all times? Or is there a specific "start up" procedure?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The fuel pump may not be priming the system adequately at startup.
If it's not priming, how did I get it started by pumping the throttle?

Just talked with her and she said it ran fine for a few days but then died again.

Can an EGR affect start up due to low RPM from starter which may affect vacuum... then again, it should run sluggish as well shouldn't it?

Thanks again for the responses. Really appreciate them. :thumbsup:
 

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As you're cranking, fuel would be continuously sent from the pump until it eventually built up enough pressure to fire.

If the EGR is stuck open, that would do it too. It would be the equivalent of a huge vacuum leak until the engine was up to operating temp.
 
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