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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey,

I have a 2000 TL - tranny is starting to slip a little. 120K miles. Transmission fluid needs to be replaced - it is gray rather than red. I have a great mechanic but he wants to "recondition" the fluid rather than replace it - but posts on this site say it is better to replace than recondition.

I have the shop manuals with nice pictures of the "transmission filler bolt". The photo shows the bolt that needs to be removed to add transmission fluid, but when I open the hood of my car, I see nothing that looks remotely similar.

3 questions:

1) can anyone tell me roughly where in the engine compartment the transmission filler bolt is located?
2) can anyone tell me whether the "sealing washer" that is supposed to be replaced is the same as the aluminum washer used on the oil drain plug?
3) Finally, has anyone ever used Lucas Transmission fix in a TL transmission? The stuff worked fantastic in my Yukon XL, but ....

thanks!
b
 

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Use only the Honda ATF fluid. The filler bolt is on the driver's side on top of the tranny. If you look straight down between the air intake hose and the firewall you should be able to see a large bolt with "ATF" written on the top. The sealing washer is definitely different--*much* larger (I believe 23mm).

If your car had the "jet cooling" kit installed as part of the transmission recall, then in place of your ATF filler plug you have a small hose coming out of a specialized bolt where the plug used to be. This was Acura's band-aid fix for the transmission failure (which doesn't really help). If you have this instead of the factory fill plug, then the recommended way to refill the transmission fluid is through the dipstick opening. The opening is very small in diameter so you need a small mouth funnel and you need to pour *very* slowly when refilling it so the fluid has time to drain down or it will bubble out of the dipstick and all down the side of your engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Matt,

Thanks (I think) :). Yes, I had the transmisison recall done. When I was looking down there the other day, I did notice a bolt with a metal tube coming out of it around where I would have expected the transmission fluid bolt to be. But, I guess I didn't put 2 and 2 together!

Now I don't know how to proceed. Tranny fluid needs a change, and I know where the drain bolt is. Other posters on this forum say NOT to have the transmission fluid reconditioned but to replace it instead by emptying and replacing 3 times over a few weeks. But, it may be more of a hassle than it is worth trying to pour fluid down through some teeny tiny funnel through the dipstick tube. What was Acura thinking???

Maybe I will look and see whether it looks like I can temporarily pull that bolt/tube in order to refill and then put it back in

Thanks for cluing me in - all makes sense now!

bruce
 

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Now I don't know how to proceed. Tranny fluid needs a change, and I know where the drain bolt is. Other posters on this forum say NOT to have the transmission fluid reconditioned but to replace it instead by emptying and replacing 3 times over a few weeks. But, it may be more of a hassle than it is worth trying to pour fluid down through some teeny tiny funnel through the dipstick tube. What was Acura thinking???

Maybe I will look and see whether it looks like I can temporarily pull that bolt/tube in order to refill and then put it back in
One of the Acura techs said you could remove that bolt and the cover and tube come off together and you could refill it that way, but it could be a pain to reassemble. I never did it that way, so I'm not sure how much would be involved or if you could really mess things up. I don't know so I would proceed with caution there. As for the 3X drain and fill, this is the recommend Honda procedure, but it doesn't have to be over a few weeks. Drain it (you'll get about 3 qts), fill it. Drive it about 20 minutes to get everything up to operating temp, and with the car running but standing still, run the shift lever through every gear position 1-5 and R a couple of times, then do the drain and fill again. Repeat one more time and you've probably replaced 80% of the fluid in there.

The good news (if you want to call it that) is that the dipstick opening is larger for the AT dipstick than the oil so it goes a *little* faster. It's not impossible to do--the key is to have patience and POUR SLOWLY. If you pour too fast it will come back up the tube and dribble out everywhere making a huge mess.
 

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I was looking for info on a way to fill through the dipstick tube. This guys got a good answer, with a sharpie pen as a reducer.

Thanks for the help and Good luck Guys.
 
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