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LS92Sedan said:
ur absolutley right, vacuum is the furthest thing from my mind, right now the hardest issues for the charger seem to be clearance for the charger and pulley's, the easiest spot seems to be removing the battery and moving it to the trunk and basically rearranging some things in that area to make room for the charger.
If you can live without A/C then mounting a charger where your compressor mounts is probably the easiest way to go. Depending on the size/geometry of the charger you use, you can probably fabricate a mounting bracket that will mount to your motor exactly how the compressor's 4 bolts mount. You also have a clear path for a belt to run to your pulley. Just machine yourself a new crank pulley and where the A/C compressor belt wraps around the pulley, you have a segment with teeth to grab the teeth of the charger belt. Air piping should not be too hard from down there.

Again, this is if you do not care for A/C.
 

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theGodfather said:
If you can live without A/C then mounting a charger where your compressor mounts is probably the easiest way to go. Depending on the size/geometry of the charger you use, you can probably fabricate a mounting bracket that will mount to your motor exactly how the compressor's 4 bolts mount. You also have a clear path for a belt to run to your pulley. Just machine yourself a new crank pulley and where the A/C compressor belt wraps around the pulley, you have a segment with teeth to grab the teeth of the charger belt. Air piping should not be too hard from down there.

Again, this is if you do not care for A/C.
Why would you have to loose the A/C?
 

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theGodfather said:
If you can live without A/C then mounting a charger where your compressor mounts is probably the easiest way to go. Depending on the size/geometry of the charger you use, you can probably fabricate a mounting bracket that will mount to your motor exactly how the compressor's 4 bolts mount. You also have a clear path for a belt to run to your pulley. Just machine yourself a new crank pulley and where the A/C compressor belt wraps around the pulley, you have a segment with teeth to grab the teeth of the charger belt. Air piping should not be too hard from down there.

Again, this is if you do not care for A/C.

you know I never even considered that, that does seem like it would be easier, especially for running the air piping, plus without the a/c I can lose the condensor as well which makes more room for the oil cooler and air cooler. As far as the crank pulley, that will be further on down the line, it all depends on the pulley of the s/c cuz thas going to dictate the size/type of belt I use, which I would obviously have to match it to the crank pulley, your idea does seem alot easier for pulley/belt clearance, about the only issue is going to be size of the charger and if I can fit it down there, I have been considering the Paxton NV1000RR which I think could easily fit, not only that, with the s/c tucked away down there, it wont be as obvious to people, and I am reallyu big into the sleeper idea, now if only we could shut that s/c up so it's silent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
they make a silent reverse rotation charger. either paxton or vortech. look on their website
 

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k

Just to let u guys know i disconnected my VIS..

I haven't been more happy! I did it because i have the ASP pulley which gives me the torque but as DV8 has said u lose top end. Well i figured i would just leave it on till spring so i figured i would test the VIS theory. My RPM normally sits at around 1200rpm but if i sit at an intersection for long enough the ECU readjusts to make it around 800-900. The second u tap it again it sits higher. I noticed a HUGE difference low end and around 5 grand. I mean i noticed enough to go "holy ..." Now some can question this and i don't care, but remember i have the ASP and a higher compression, plus with all the city driving i am doing and the freeway UTI races i am getting 10mpg-15 tops.

Now i can do a dyno hopefully on november 5th and will update then. My engine also idles smoother and my clutch believe it or not does not chatter almost at all anymore. So i am a happy customer. Here is a pic to show that i put a little air breather on the vacuum connection "just in case"

I was talking with someone and we thought it would be cool for somebody to by the APEXI for the vtec systems and run the vtec wiring to the solinoids that control the flaps to time them when to open.
 

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the one above kinda does..

there are two lines running from the solinoids to a Y connetor (white or brown) and then to the steel vacuum lines where they run under the fuel rail.

That filter is placed right after the y connector.

kieth, unless you have the ASP pulley or have done the research to make it so certain flaps are open....you will lose tq.

I did it on purpose to gain my topend back....which i am very very happy with. Plus i advanced my timing also.
 

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Daddymac117 said:
Up until 1500 RPM, all flaps are closed, and the air travels way to the back of the manifold, then up into the intake runners and then into the cylinders. This is optimal for most low-end torque.

Then around 3300-3400 RPM, the two side flaps open up, allowing air to move more freely up into the intake runners and into the cylinders, which is better for mid-range performance.

Then around 4000-4300 RPM, the flap in the center opens along with the other 2, allowing maximum airflow into the runners, which helps in giving high-end performance.
I just wanted to correct you on this Daddymac. The VIS has no direct connection to RPM. It works of manifold vacume. This vacume can vary, even at the same RPM. What I thin you meant was that the VIS uses two things as variables, Thottle % and RPM. These determine vacume!

Just my $.02
 

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1_Hot_Legend_L said:
I just wanted to correct you on this Daddymac. The VIS has no direct connection to RPM. It works of manifold vacume. This vacume can vary, even at the same RPM. What I thin you meant was that the VIS uses two things as variables, Thottle % and RPM. These determine vacume!

Just my $.02
The VIS flaps are vacuum operated, but the vacuum source is a vacuum reserve tank rather than directly from the manifold. The ECU controls the vacuum solenoids that apply/release vacuum to the flaps. There is a preset RPM range for both sets of flaps in the ECU programming that determines when the flaps open.

I understand your logic, if the flaps were solely dependent on manifold vacuum then throttle application would affect their operation. Honda went with the reserve tank to allow control over the flaps under any throttle/manifold vacuum conditions.
 

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i have no idea what that means but it is funny as hell..^^

Another thing...

Do not do this unless you have an APEXI- perferrably a VTEC one so you can attempt to control the solinoids(that would be cool and would be good research).

I was running to lean(not at first...but my ECU was doing its own thing) and i was detonating. Ran fine, had awesome power...but at idle and off idle...rough and no power.

latta

Ps--I will be creating a Sticky on VIS and what it means with diagrams etc..so i will be verifying things with Kenso before posting it.
 

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Kenso said:
The VIS flaps are vacuum operated, but the vacuum source is a vacuum reserve tank rather than directly from the manifold. The ECU controls the vacuum solenoids that apply/release vacuum to the flaps. There is a preset RPM range for both sets of flaps in the ECU programming that determines when the flaps open.

I understand your logic, if the flaps were solely dependent on manifold vacuum then throttle application would affect their operation. Honda went with the reserve tank to allow control over the flaps under any throttle/manifold vacuum conditions.
Oh ok, thanks for corecting me. I was on the asumption that they ran on manifold pressure. I figured that when they had vacume they were closed and with no vacume they were open. But I guess it's the oposite! I know the VIS on the G1 is manifold vacume operated. This is prolly why I was confused! Thanks for clearing that up Kenso!

Later!
Lenny
 

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I disconnected two vacuum hoses last night (on the rear side of the intake manifold where the 3 lines enter [took out the outside ones and left the middle one plugged in]) and took the car for a boot. The idle was rough bouncing up and down from 1000 to 1500 rpm... but at many times it seemed to settle at 1000. I dumped extra fuel on idle via my SAFC and felt a smoother idle. Above 3000 RPM it seems to pull harder and response faster to throttle.. but below it feels gutless!

Christian... Did you make any A/F adjustments on yoru SAFC on the LowThrottle settings in the lower RPM range to compensate for the more air?

How do I keep a steady idle?

I plugged the lines back in for now but will probably try this again AFTER I replace my knock sensors and will dyno-tune the car. I will run the dyno with and without VIS to get true #s.

Does KMS still bore out our TBs?
 

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theGodfather said:
I disconnected two vacuum hoses last night (on the rear side of the intake manifold where the 3 lines enter [took out the outside ones and left the middle one plugged in]) and took the car for a boot. The idle was rough bouncing up and down from 1000 to 1500 rpm... but at many times it seemed to settle at 1000. I dumped extra fuel on idle via my SAFC and felt a smoother idle. Above 3000 RPM it seems to pull harder and response faster to throttle.. but below it feels gutless!

Christian... Did you make any A/F adjustments on yoru SAFC on the LowThrottle settings in the lower RPM range to compensate for the more air?

How do I keep a steady idle?

I plugged the lines back in for now but will probably try this again AFTER I replace my knock sensors and will dyno-tune the car. I will run the dyno with and without VIS to get true #s.

Does KMS still bore out our TBs?
No i only have after 50% throttle tuned. Its all i use. The bayou builds a real rich condition. you have to re-tune the set hex screw on the TB assembly to get the idle fixed.
 

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correct me if i am wrong...but you would lose lowend torque based on our manifold design.? I did this because of the ASP pulley. Like i said before...it was fine when i first did it...awesome in fact, but later and more noticabley it idle rough as heck(do to to lean?) and i would have good days(awesome too) and then bad...idled rough, no power etc..

Reconnected VIS and feels great again...but now i am at 5degrees advance on idle running 93oct as usual. Also i disconnected the fuel regulator vacuum to dump a little extra fuel at idle(just in case). Runs great and am happy.

But i would love to see what Godfather and others can do with some good tuning and research.
 

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Swift said:
Reconnected VIS and feels great again...but now i am at 5degrees advance on idle .

What do you mean 5 degrees advanced?

~TRu Hybrid
 
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