[kbest@iname.com]

My daughter 98 RL failed to start this morning. Had it towed to Sacramento Acura. They replaced the "main" relay, part is $250 and labor $80.

My son's 98 Avalon did not have any break down yet!

 

[map95003]

Sorry to hear that but I think you got ripped off by the dealer. It's been a while since I changed mine and wrote up this DIY but the part wasn't even close to what you paid, I just looked at my receipt, I paid $47 for the main-relay and it takes like 10 minutes or less to replace it. It took me a bit longer because I was taking pictures for this DIY thread.

If you're handy here's a good place to get OEM acura parts for much less than the local dealers:

http://www.oemacuraparts.com/

 

[adalbey]

i have a '97 RL that has been out of commission for over 3 months now....mainly because people told me my fuel pump needed to be replaced and i just dont have the money for that. this is the story...

i tried to leave work one day and my car would not start. starter worked. but the engine didnt seem to actually turn over. i honestly thought it was my battery but a friend convinced me it wasnt and told me to get a new fuel filter before i look into replacing the fuel pump. i did this....still nothing. however, one time it did start for literally one second....and never again. the battery actually died and just a week ago i had it tested and it just so happened to be a bad battery and i got a free replacement! my car actually worked for a full 24 hours after this and then one day im leaving work and its like deja vu. but i know it isnt the alternator(regardless of what people are telling me) because everything turns on but the engine itself. and a week later the battery is still fine....even tried jumping it to make sure. im still worried that it may be the fuel pump because another friend told me that sometimes replacing the fuel filter will push the gunk from the old one and clog the fuel pump. however, i've learned that many people/mechanics do not understand acuras because mechanic friends and autozone employees had told me my fuel pump was visible from underneath my car and that the filter was next to my gas tank(both of which are entirely false)....so thats why im on this forum.

i really just want to know what you think....

does this still sound like it could be the relay?

 

[jtatarin]

nice photos thanks

 

[Get Ready]

This thread was very helpful! I'm not very car handy, but I was able to do this myself and save a couple hundred bucks in labor.

In my 99 Acura 3.2 TL the box was in the corner where your left foot goes. The box would not push up on it's own. I had to take a thin screwdriver and shove it up between the metal and main relay in order to break the little tab that holds it in place. Once I did this it slid off easy.

Also, I couldn't get it unplugged until I had it off the metal bracket. It was easy once I had it loose and a easier angle.

Getting it back on wasn't too bad, just a little trial and error. I plugged it back in once I had it up. FYI, the only real way to do this is to lay on your back with your head by the brake and your feet out of the car on your ground. It is NOT comfortable, but hopefully it'll go quick for you.

Part costs $75 at my local dealer. If I can do it, you can do it. :beerchug:

 

[tricy913]

Is the main relay the same as the fuel pump relay?

 

[map95003]

Is the main relay the same as the fuel pump relay?

I've never heard it referred to as the fuel pump relay so I don't think so. The main relay is located under the steering column. I have pics in the beginning of this thread showing you how to get to it.

 

[map95003]

This thread was very helpful! I'm not very car handy, but I was able to do this myself and save a couple hundred bucks in labor.

In my 99 Acura 3.2 TL the box was in the corner where your left foot goes. The box would not push up on it's own. I had to take a thin screwdriver and shove it up between the metal and main relay in order to break the little tab that holds it in place. Once I did this it slid off easy.

Also, I couldn't get it unplugged until I had it off the metal bracket. It was easy once I had it loose and a easier angle.

Getting it back on wasn't too bad, just a little trial and error. I plugged it back in once I had it up. FYI, the only real way to do this is to lay on your back with your head by the brake and your feet out of the car on your ground. It is NOT comfortable, but hopefully it'll go quick for you.

Part costs $75 at my local dealer. If I can do it, you can do it. :beerchug:

Glad to know me trying to take pics in that uncomfortable position was helpful to a few people....I got rid of my 96 RL earlier this year....I still miss it.

 

[haurelio]

hi. let me start that i have been reading this boards for a while and i have found some great info.. now, I have a acura tl 1996 2.5 that has the same symptoms, car won't start, just heard the click clik clik but don't fire up.. i tried looking for the main relay and the only one that i found was the mitsuba rz 0088(main relay/fuel relay). tried soldering but the car still won't start.. is this the correct relay? what else should i do?

 

[JoeMah]

Main relay or not?

Quick question. A friend of mine just got an Acura RL 3.5 1996. It starts but only runs for a minute or so. It will start back up again but shut off within a minute. Fuel looks to be flowing correctly. I didn't see these exact symptoms for the main relay, but the symptoms are similar. Does this sound like a main relay issue?

 

[lunytnz]

This thread has been a big help getting that damn relay box detached from the bracket. It also helps to know that the two wiring harnesses come off differently. The gray one has a push-button release that you can press with your finger (granted, there's not a lot of wiggle room when you're upside down and backwards under the dash). The orange one you need to release by sticking a small flat-blade screwdriver into the 'slot' and the pressing toward the box with the tip of the screwdriver while pulling the wiring harness free.

Now that I have it out, I'll be trying to repair it or replace it. Sounds like getting the box re-attached to the bracket will be a tough one.

 

[lunytnz]

I was skeptical, but I took my basic, old stick soldering iron to each of the solder connections on the circuit board. I was out of solder, so I 'tinned' the tip in the extra solder that was in the screw heads holding on the circuit board. That proved to be just enough. I suspect the bigger pins in the circuit board are the ones that are the source of the problem, but that means they also have the least solder, so it's tough to tell if the solder is flowing when you re-heat. After touching every pin on the board, I plugged the main relay back in and, voila!, started right up on the first try! Yay!

I tried sliding the box back on the bracket from both the top and the bottom, but couldn't get it to go. So, it's partially on and held in check by a nearby wiring harness. If anyone has any advice on how to get that re-attached, I'm all ears.

So, thanks to those that took the time to post pics and info about their experience. You helped me diagnose the most likely cause of the problem and gave me an idea of how to fix it (I would have never tried re-soldering the connections without that suggestion).

:beerchug:

You all rock on this forum!

 

[boljangles]

Thanks buddy

 

[ZimmyShelter]

1998 RL

Attached is a photo showing 1998 RL relay, with photo of a removed relay superimposed. I have not removed the old one yet as it is indeed a bitch to get at. I did however, tap it gently with a screwdriver handle a few times and the car started right up. I can now move it out of the sun and try to repair or replace. The "tapping" diagnostic sure is a good one when it works.

 

[sjankis630]

Count me as a believer.
2000 Acura RL - with 177k miles.
I am going to leave work in Northern Va and drive to Southern VA (235miles)
I come out of my building and my car will not start. It will crank until the cows come home but not catch. I call AAA and the tow truck driver jiggles the key and the car starts right up.
I drive to Southern VA (stopping several times along the way - no problem)
The next morning, the car won't start. (I jiggled the key till the cows came home) have it towed to the only Honda dealer in town.
The service girl can't get the car cranked to put it in the bay (duh!) The mechanic comes by and jiggles the key (listening for the fuel pump) gets it to start and pulls it into the shop. They check it out and then take it for a test drive and everything is fine. They charge me $40. He says it could be my fuel pump which is going bad, but they can find nothing wrong and to "hold" the key. He also says that they would need to drop the fuel tank to get the fuel pump in. Car runs great the next 5 starts but then later that day will not fire.
This is Saturday and I have to drive back to Northern VA on Sunday.
I leave the car on the street and walk the 1.5 miles home. I call a buddy who is basically a mechanic (he takes apart engines and puts in new tranny's etc) he is convinced that it must be my fuel pump. I keep pointing him toward the main relay and read him the responses from my smartphone directed to this website.
He goes by the local Advance Auto Parts where he knows some people and they let him look at a manual (apparently they have taken them back behind the counter now) The guy at the shop says it is probably either the relay or the fuel pump.
I buy the relay ($62) and he finds where it is and installs int in about 5 min. The car starts right up. I just got in here in Northern VA to type this e-mail about 20 min ago.
I am sure glad I found this site.
Thanks again.

 

[MeanFace]

Guys I got a main relay, switched out the old, and its still not working....How do you tell if a main relay is out...you can always buy a faulty product...any recommendations......My ? is if a main relay is not working, when you turn the key over and you hear a clicking sound when connecting the relay does this mean the main relay is ok???? Please Help...I don't want to change my fuel pump if I don't have to....

Im in the same boat.
My 2000 RL will eventually start after a few attempts.

 

[lepton]

Fuel Relay

Had the same problem occur on my 99 Rl with 235k miles. Died on me a couple of times. Then yesterday after work, drove home and next morning would not start. Crank and crank and nothing. So...started researching and found this posting. Called Autozone, Checker and Penny Pincher for relay but none in stock. Check with NAPA and they had the part for around 63 bucks. Not to hard to remove except kinda awkward position for looking under steering column. Use a some type of lighting under there. Clips on cover came off pretty easy. Started on the left side of panel first. My unit was not labeled. But from diagram was able to determine that it was the correct one. Removing from bracket was a little hard. Had to slide up to remove. Was not able to reinstall in same way....however there is no movement or vibration so just left hanging. Once in...turned key and fired right up.... :beerchug:

 

[RL Acura 2000]

Acra rl 2000

:boink:Cranks but wont start. finding this forum was a big help i pulled the main relay removed the cover and found a bad conection on circuit board
fixed it reinstalled cover and put relay back in its place pulged in the conections turn the key and it stared. No promblems so far. THANKS EVERY ONE.

 

[murphyblack]

Main Relay Diagnosis, Remove and Replace, fuel filter replacement

My thanks to Map 95003 and the others with input on Main Relay diagnosis along with R & R steps and pics. Not sure I would have tackled it without the tutoring from you Map and the others on the Main Relay. This is a 99 RL with about 170k. No warning, it just crapped out, then would start run a bit then not start. Finally it refused to start Period.
I had the problem outlined, checked the filter and no gas was being delivered. Standing on your ear upside down in the driver's floorboard to access this little devil is the worst part. Changing the filter with large hands is no cakewalk due to space but I did not even drop a bolt. Thanks to those who outlined the filter change and noted the small washers on either side of the outlet. These can get away from you if you do not pay attention and the filter from NAPA did not have the indention for this washer on the outlet side that was most likely on the OEM part . Upon installing the filter in the saddle strap, put the bolt in the strap part of the holder FIRST, it makes the passenger side bolt much easier to start. BE SURE you tighten both ends of the filter appropriately and let it run for a while to make sure you have no leaks in either side of the filter. I am 60 with much mechanical experience and if I can do it you can as well with the input here. Mechanical expertise is outlined in the posts and all you need.
Main Relay was about 70 bucks from NAPA with a three year guarantee. The one with a 1 yr guarantee was about 10 buck less. If you are keeping the car as we are, I opted for the pricier replacement but have no idea what the difference is, both were made in China. The dealer cost on Main Relay was about $115-120. I bot the upgraded filter as well. The old one was filthy as it drained the balance of the fuel. So I was glad to get it replaced.
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU. Murphy

 

[300k]

300k & Still Cruising

This forum not only saved me time and money, but unnecessary repairs as well. Had the same issues listed but the relay never fully failed. Luckily I caught it in time due to this forum. My 1999 RL has 300k+ miles and I just replaced the relay. Took about 10 minutes and changed the fuel filter while I was at it. Problem solved. This has by far been the most reliable vehicle I've ever owned. Appreciate the knowledge and help.